Niku-Sama

vancouver is only 100 miles away from where i am at, i take it if you didnt find a tranny in vancouver your odds of finding a rear end are pretty slim. if there are yards up there you should check out bellingham or mount vernon, if any thing there are old school subaru nuts up there who probally have a stock pile of rear ends and trannys for when they break off roading. i am in arlington and i remember seeing a 3.90 and a d/r 5spd here. probally somre more by now. sorta off topic, so 3.70 and a 4eat turbo is normal?

i'll have to check it out, theres alot of air plane nuts arround here and theres all sorts of protectants and stuff in a bunch of stores. infact the local napa isnt far away from a popular minicipal airport and they carry alot of high end 3M compounds and polishes

its a new pipe so i am hoping i can find some place that'll peel back the heat sheilds and weld up the crack and wrap it up again. i still get boost but some times i have to wind it up to 3500rpm for it to really kick in.

its before, under the heat sheilds on the passenger side just comming out of the head, its also shoothing hot air over the power steering lines that run along that rail too

i wonder if mabe changing your hot coolant out for some cold may have done it on your coolant change....that is if you did it hot. when i was working at a jube shop it always bothered me to run the coolant machine, the kinda operated by an air system in the shop that have the 2 big cylinders, one new coolant and one elpty for old and and you done sucking old stuff out you push, or more let the system suck the new stuff in. i always waited for white smoke...

no usually i do little spots that i can use rattle cans of duplicolor for or i have access to a air compressor and a gravity feed HVLP gun. i'm not casting any judgment i am curious now. i guess if its the right kind of paint an its warm enough out the texture wouldnt be a problem. is the rustoleum in the big buckets like that the same consistancy and mixture as the stuff in the spray cans?

uhh ok, curious to see this. borrow a better camera or get a cheepo one from value village (in the baggies)

your going to paint your car with brushes?

you said you "restored the interior pannels with 303" what is that and where can i get my mitts on some, that'd be great for all my cars

thats funny, Datsun at the same year had a "Black Gold" edition 280zx. it had all the fancy stuff....no offence to subaru stuff but i think the Z was better. infact that 280zx at the arlington PAP is a "black gold" car

alright i got it insured and had its maiden voyage today. sprung a new oil leak but its a valve cover, no big, i think it sprung because i now have volume and pressure instead of just pressure. i also need to get the exhaust fixed because it comes inside, it'll be finr when i can have the windows open but when it gets colder its gonna be a wee bit of a problem. driving home on I5 north from everett i about fell asleep because i had the windows up and was listening to whats going on, hopefully it'll help some of the turbo lag aswell

talk to em and you might be able to bag the whole car, generally if its not on the main pull lot you can snag em

well lemme know, i think this comming week or next i am gonna go to the yard and pull that white hood thats wass there and swap it with mine, the paint on mine is funky but its straight with some minor things.

only way to find out is get the car home and get it running normally and see if you have any thing mixing. its possible to overheat and not warp or blow gaskets....just not as easy to get away with it on these. if your going to swap then why dont you go EJ? they do well off road

i've done it but only to clean out alot of really dirty blacker than black oil ina car. problem with ATF is yea it works but it can also clean away the gunk keeping things from leaking causing more leaks

does it smoke white? as for a clean engine compartment, this came from a dealer didnt it? i am guessing it got pressure washed

has any one modified the wiring for the fusable links and replaced them with blade stlye fuses on these cars? i ************in hate fusible links

that dash totally has titty knobs on it i like it, although i am not a big fan of converts, always araid i am gonna loose my head or something

yea i dont have a CEL, the battery was out for a long while and it didnt have any when i bought it so i am gonna assume everything is ok for the most part, the coolant sensor that controls the guage may be shot but giving a good signal to the computer not causing a light though. and i am gonna attribute the quick stumble i get when i first step on the gas when i start it to re-learning because thats the only time it does it. you still lookin for a hood?

that kinda sounds like mine, just alot louder. when its cold start it up and feel under the car arround the exhaust ports on the head and see if you feel any warm air, feel arround the heat sheilds down there too. just be sure not to touch because the heat up quick. i have a minor leak down there on the passengerside behind the heat sheild, i should take it to some place and have em weld it up, its a new pipe and i dont have the cash to replace

oh ok so one set i hook up to get the light to blink another to clear the memory. i guess thats easier than turning an unmarked screw on the side of the ecu like on my other cars in the past. one thing i forgot to ask, i am gonna fix the rust spot on the back hatch but i was gonna ask, should i just fix the one spot and do it the same as the body color or would you think it'd look good if i did that whole recessed area arround the plate in black, like a semi gloss to keep it OEM like

yea i was gonna suggest, if i decide to go offroad with my wagon i am gonna grab a CB just incase

wow this is the oppisite problem i am having but any way have you checked the coolant sensor that relays info to the computer and adjusts the mixture according to the temp? i had a sensor like that (CHTS in a Nissan) cause a pinging problem

first off the cars back together, no ticking, slight noise from the exhaust, and noise comming from the passenger side timing cover. louder when the timing cover is off, i think i flipped the belt over and its being a bit noisy and wearing the other way because its a bit hard but no cracks and stuff yet, i just didnt have the money for the belts when i had it open and they are easy to get too. so some pics: its straight and needs a good cleaning.... i think my camera is dieing because the outside pics look like crap, will have to look into the settings the exposure may be way off....any way. most of the rust is on the back hatch, theres a spec here and there on the body that i am going to hit and the front fenders along the edge but the j yard has a wagon i may pull replacements off of. but its not bad for $300 plus about $60 in parts/seals and $120 to title, plate and tag (damn 7 year rule) the car so i do have a few questions... this is a 1990 Loyale Turbo with Full time 4WD i was curious the sensor on the top of the thermostat housing with an injector style connector, which temp sensor is this? is it the one that relays temp back to the computer and it adjusts mixture according to temp? then i had to get in under the dash to replace the hood release i noticed a few things. under the dash there were these black and green connectors, both male and female ends to one another down under the wheel unhooked like so: what are these for and should they be hooked up? i take it the white connector is some sort of service connector then theres this funkyness....i dont know where to start with this: is this a common thing to do? the grey wire is going into the herness and the one missing is the fuel pump then i found a funky box: doesent look factory and judging from the "Made in U.S.A." its not the writing off to the side on the left edge of the picture just says programming switches, up is on down is off. my best guess is cruise control but then it still has all the factory cruise stuff in it

mine ticked really bad but replacing seals made it go away, the previous owner said he did the Marvel Mystery Oil and SeaFoam comstantly and it didnt help for obvious reasons. they arent fix alls but they can help. it says you already replaced the seals on the oil pump but what ones? there are 3.... i also, since i was in there, replaced the front crank seal and the seals that go on the end of the cam snouts, there are flat thick round seals like the crank seal and an o ring on each side and they were leaking on mine and i noticed the o rings were dried and comming apart. it cost me $40 to replace all 3 oil pump seals, the cam cap seals and o rings and the front crank seal.