Datsunrides

Well, I hope they don't, but if something happens, I do have an extra set. mark

I thought you had found a set of heads, or are you looking for spares? Mark

I see no reason it won't. Mark

To really simplify it, run the supply line direct to the carb. If there is any doubt of the pressure the fuel pump you end up using, install a regulator. Most carbs do not require any more than 2-3 psi. I would remove all the return plumbing and evap cans and cap off the fittings at the tank. Keep the filler vent. The key to this is using a vented gas cap, or the tank will build pressure untill something gives. Not a good thing. If your cap is not vented, or you can't find one, simply drill a small hole (1/16th or so) in the highest part of the cap and your set. Keep up the nice work! Mark

Cool, another early GL/DL getting fixed up. This one should be nice with the flares and rear spoiler. Post up lots of pics of the progress, might get me motavated to finish mine! Mark

I like it! Mark

Do a full lock turn both left and right. If you hear no clicking, your joints are probably good. Mark

Probably a combination of worn bearings and oil pump. I take it the oil is in good shape, not gassy smelling. The oil pumps can be had relatively cheap and are easy to change if other things look good. Mark

Where's the early 70's stuff? Mark

If you can't find a new one, and you still have your old one, you can get it recored fairly inexpensively. You would end up with a basically new radiator. Mark

If you could swing it, I'd say a nice vintage wood rim Nardi. That Grant does not look bad though. Mark

Good point on the connectors. I didn't want to go too indepth about every nuance. *IF* I were to be looking at something like this, I would find a lifter that had the closest dimension to the stock lifter, in terms of length + the additional length for the connector. Because the lifter would likely come from an american pushrod engine, the diameter would most likely be larger. You would have to line bore/gun drill the case and install bushings to make these work, if the case can even be drilled. By the way, I didn't think the EA71 came with hydraulic lifters? If it didn't, you would have to run solid roller lifters as the case would not be drilled for hydraulic ones. Then, you are still stuck with having to get a cam ground for a roller lifter. I have a feeling your being generous thinking 2 or 3 people would want them. Too much other work would need to be done to justify (In my mind) the extreme cost associated with this conversion, which would add even more costs. I would actually be much cheaper to turbo/standalone EFI the motor, than try and do the roller setup. and you would end up, most likely, with more power. Now, I have never been one to let a crazy idea stand in the way of me spending way too much money on an idea that has a more cost effective solution, just for the point of being "different". So basically, I'm just sayin'..........

Beautiful! Love the wheels!:cool:

As with most anything, if you gots the $$$$, someone can make it for you. You need to determine if you are just . To use roller lifters, you kinda need a roller cam, that is a ramp designed to work with roller lifters. A flat tappet cam will ruin roller lifters in short order as a flat tappet cam is ground as to rotate the lifters to equalize wear. Now, since the main benefit to a roller cam is the aggressive ramp profile it allows you to run, you need to determine if your engine can make use of this benefit. To realize this, you are probably at minimum looking at lightweight, oversize valve train, lots of porting, and carb/exhaust improvements. Lots of additional cost just for a roller lifter! Mark

+1 on the switch. Take a look at the back. They sometimes work loose from the lock cylinder. Mark

2 stroke seizures are usually either by too tight a piston to cylinder clearance, or running lean, which is basically overheating. The most likely cause of the cylinder clearance is a piston expanding more than normal. Wiesco's had this issue years ago. I can't remember how many seisures I had on my old RD400 due to this. Couple extra thousandths on the hone did the trick. Made the motor a little noisy when dead cold, but no more seizures. I don't think the coating will help with the issue, but maybe it will. Those are more for lessening friction. Best bet may be a little more piston/cylinder clearance and possibly jet the carb up a notch to keep it cooler. Maybe run a little premix to help out? I am not a 360 guy, more just giving my 2c based on years of playing with street 2 stroke motorcycles. Mark

Nice wheels. Mark

May be better to upgrade to an EJ. Mark

So Florida cold = what 70 degrees? Actually, while carb icing is more prevalent in closer to freezing temps, it can happen in somewhat warmer weather just due to the velocity of the air flow thru the carb venturi. Probably not your issue though. I would think if is was a fuel pump issue, it would take a few seconds to restart due to the pump having to refill the carb. May be as simple as plugged main jets, which a good carb overhaul would fix. Mark

Not really. Unless you tear down the engine, you will usually find out about a bent rod by catastrophic failure, either by the rod physically breaking or a piston/wristpin letting go due to excessive side loading because of the bent rod. Neither situation is pleasant. Mark

If it's stalling while accelerating, I doubt it's the accelerator pump. That only comes into play as you first hit the gas. Could be a failing fuel pump. If you could cut in a pressure gauge and tape it to the windshield while driving would sort that in short order. Another thought, based on the cold weather comment would be carb icing. Do you have the hot air tube to the air cleaner hooked up? If so, is the flapper working? Mark

If you end up needing some parts, give me a holler. I have some stuff from a parts car I dismantled. Mark

Probably just years and years of the engine expanding and contracting. Well, if it hydrolocked while cranking, you *probably* are OK. If it was running and it did that, expect some bent con rods, to some extent, at the minimum. Water is nasty in that it does not compress, so that force has to go somewhere. Mark

I would agree that it would be better to get a good replacement engine than try and save the old one. Probably cheaper too. I would think the traditional method of line boring would create a whole lot of other issues, like line boring the cam supports also, possibly having to shorten the pushrods, etc. I believe you can get oversized (thicker) bearing shells, that are meant to be used in a bored out (not line bored, two different things) block. Again, I would just go with a new motor. I still see old stock rebuilt EA71's popping up now and again for less than $500, sometimes much less. Mark

Wow. Another coupe pops up. Keep us updated on the progress. Mark