Datsunrides

Will do. I hope to get some progress pics up this weekend so I'll get some snaps then. Basically used the bumper mounts.

Yup, 2 harbor freight specials. Works fine for these light cars. I did replace the fixed wheels with casters to both make it so it can move in any direction and to also level it up since engine stands have a pitch to them. Turns with ease. This is the 3rd car I've used them on.

Flippin like a chicken. LOL.

So I came across a guy selling some NOS Kontrolle strut inserts and shocks. He said they are for sedans/wagons (72-76) and the catalog he has shows a different # for the coupes. What is the difference? Is it just valving and dimensionally they are the same? Mark

I have not noticed any flex. I would think it would be opposite, with body on frame cars flexing as uni-bodies are self supporting, especially hardtops. I guess I'll know for sure when I fit the doors! You know, it is SO MUCH NICER working on the car this way. I shouldn't have been so lazy and did this years ago. Went from dreading working on it to actually somewhat enjoying it. lol Once I get the engine compartment and underside done, the rest is (relatively) cake. Mark

Usually you can wiggle them off after the nut is removed. It is a taper fit. Keep the nut on there with a couple threads so you don't smack yourself in the face with the wheel! Worse case grab a loaner steering wheel puller from a Autozone or such. There should be a couple threaded bosses there.

Getting serious now! On the (home-built) rotisserie and starting on a trunk corner.

I didn't realize it was that bad. Sounds kinda like the car I got out of OK for parts. Basically everything from under the rear seats back was GONE. Saved as much as I could before scrapping it. I dig the early coupes, but there is a limit to how much work/money I'm willing to put into one. I mean, it's not like there's a pot of gold at the end of the rainbow.....................

Sorry to hear your letting it go. I have thought the same with mine a few times with the difficulty in finding rubber parts. Once you get the chance to check your stuff, shoot me a PM and let me know. Mark

IIRC, the 3AT is a Jatco 3N71B variant. If it is, it was used in all automatic Datsun cars from 71' up until the early 80's and in early Mazdas. Since the Datsuns are still sorta common in wreckers, may want to pull one out and see if it's the same? Mark

Looking for the following for my coupe. Ideally NOS or good used. Please PM me if you have anything listed. I also have various used spare parts for early coupes I could trade also. -Hood release cable (new only) -Dome light lens or assembly -Glove box insert -Rear glass weatherstrip -Door weatherstrip, both sides -Quarter glass weatherstrip, both sides -Trunk weatherstrip -Outer door glass wiper, both sides -Hood bumpers -Heater valve (new only) -Rear inner trailing arm bushing (u shaped) Yea right on the weather strip but may as well ask. Mark

Looks like a 1400 radiator. Mark

Yes, you will need to have a compressor, condenser, hoses, and a drier in addition to the evaporator you linked. Wiring is simple, usually just a fused power wire to the evaporator control and a wire from the evaporator to the compressor. If offered, it is better if the compressor wire is installed thru a low pressure switch. Mark

I sounds like you are not looking to do a full on resto. If you were, I would recommend media blasting, epoxy primer, then undercoat (the good stuff, not the stuff on a spray bomb). The good bodyshop grade stuff can be topcoated if you wish. Depending on what end product you want to achieve, you could just leave it alone (it only took 35 years to get where it is) or the next level would be to wire brush it to remove the rust, prime any spots showing bare metal and undercoat (once again use the good stuff). I plan to do the wire brush treatment on my coupe when I get to that point. IMHO, don't use POR type products. Here is the full boat job I did on a Datsun PU I just finished. Mark

No sir, stockish J13.

Ok, so I spent some time and added back most of the pics that the links were lost. The ones that are not back are because I do not have them anymore. Something to do with a hard drive crash a few years ago and I was not able to retrieve all the pics. Better than nothing I guess. Mark

So while the Subaru sat, I finished these, Last weekend I uncovered the car after sitting outside for a few years and am now in the process of scuffing down the entire car (again) to re-epoxy it as gotten slightly rusty on the surface. Still need to finish the rust repairs on the passenger wheel well, cowl opening for the fan, and the rear corners of the trunk. I'll post up a current pic of the car soon. The plan is to try and complete the car for the 2015 JCCS show. Pretty ambitious, but we'll see how it goes with only 1 other project I'm also dealing with.

Generally, on these 70's US cars, the power power rating is more due to lowered compression, leaned out / smaller carbs and mild cams to meet smog laws. Take a US motor, up the compression a bit, add in a hotter cam and add a weber and you will probably get at least another 10 hp. I'm with Leeroy in that I doubt the JDM motors put out 20 more HP than the US version unless maybe with the dual carbs. Those numbers are probably due to the different test procedure between JIS and SAE.

I checked out your Brat while I was there. It is a real nice ride. What do you mean only 3 Subarus there, that was probably a record. I hope to have my 73' coupe ready for next year, but then I thought that 3 years ago........... I had my freshly restored 66' Datsun pickup there this year. It was the grabber blue one out in the asphalt area. Mark

Hey Leeroy, you have probably forgotten more than I will ever know about these old subies! I just happened to have my crossmember sitting in the spare room (don't tell the wife! LOL). OP, you will need to dissasemble quite a bit to drop the crossmember. It's not just a couple bolts. I understand not wanting to do a lot of extra work, but usually it is pretty cheap to rent a knock down engine hoist for a day or 2 and just pull the engine. Will make putting the pan back on much easier and it really is pretty simple to yank it out. I personally would not want to work under an engine supported by jackstands. It you are set to drop the crossmember, look at buying an engine support bar from a Harbor Freight type place. IIRC, they are under a bill with the ever present 20% off coupon. At the very least maybe a 4x4 with some ratchet straps? Mark

I would 2nd just pulling the motor if you have the capability. While its out you can check the clutch and the rear main seal. Leeroy, my 73' has the rack on top of the crossmember, which would probably make it more difficult to remove the pan with the engine in the car. Mark

I have some early coupe parts. What are you looking for? They are pretty rare, but not especially valuable at the moment. I have a feeling with the rising costs of early jtin, that may be changing.

You are setting a high standard for the car! Can't wait to see it. Mark

So did the brakes work before you cleaned out the fluid?

Weber 32/36 DGV