88coupe
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Everything posted by 88coupe
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How do you identify SOHC or DOHC? Im not sure what year the EJ20 is because its not stock for a 93 Legacy.
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Yeah 2 seperate vehicles, I have a 95 Legacy & my dad has a 93. So the EJ20 and EJ22 use the same timing belt & water pump kit right?
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Im sorry I didnt clarify, I have a 95 legacy w/ a 5spd.
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So my dad's 93 Legacy had been backfiring on startup & idling high. I checked the timing belt marks & it seems to be off by a tooth or more. Also the driver side timing cover is broken where the cam timing mark would line up, bummer. But lined it up on passenger side & driver cam was off, even after cranking it around by hand. Well while I was working it I noticed it was an EJ20 nice surprise, I wondered why there was more room in the engine bay compared to my Legacy EJ22. Anyway is the timing belt, idler's, water pump & damn near everything else the same between the EJ20 & EJ22? Im sure the timing procedure is the same right? So a timing belt kit for a EJ22 of the same year is the same for a EJ20? Gotta fix it this weekend! Also 4EAT in the car is kinda sluggish, what would some members recommend? A complete fluid flush & new filter? Adding a In-Line tranny filter? Specific Additive or supplement? A pinched breather hose? Any opinions for "tuning up" the older 4EAT are appreciated, Thanks USMB & members for helping & saving each one us time & money on repairs & information/ And also getting to know our Subie's even better. One last thing, I'd read of some people lubricating their throw out bearings threw clutch fork window, Is that something anyone has tried/accomplished? Its risky business greasing Throw out bearing once starting to make noise when clutch engaged. I assume only options are replace it or whole clutch kit OR ignore/get used to it but prepare for consequences. My 95 Legacy makes once pedal is released.
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Check the ignition timing with a light gun & the timing of the cam/crankshafts & belt? Or is that how you check the belt & such is with the light gun? Start there then check the coolant temp sensor and so on? Do you not think it could be the coolant sensor? Well the CHECK ENGINE light was triggered by the Vehicle Speed Sensor and I had read that the tranny has a control unit also (VCM) and the POWER light is its own equivalent to the check engine light, so I assumed that they both picked up the VSS code. Does the tranny go into a safe mode when a trouble code is detected?
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But wouldn't the timing cause backfiring/misfire even when the engine is warm? I was thinkning maybe it was something that closed up when it got warm like a exhaust leak or ...
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Recently bought a 93 Legacy wagon off Craigslist for my father to commute to work out of town. It runs good and is used to commute 250mi's a week (highway drive 125mi there & 125mi back). I check it out every weekend when he gets back. THE MAIN issue is it backfires thru intake at startup & the idle is high, only when engine is cold! After it warms up it runs better & idles fine. It had the Bosch 4 prong platinum spark plugs, runs better with copper NGK's, but still backfiring. I cleaned the PVC vavle, MAF sensor, IACV, & throttle body also. Had the exhaust checked out & they replaced 1 of the cats but not sure if they really checked EVERYTHING out. Previous owner had replaced the plugs/wires & air filter. I've researched this & came across a few possibilities but the car runs fine once warmed up. coolant temp sensor could be failing-dumping too much fuel at warm up. Timing belt could have jumped a tooth. Exhaust leak near the head or at the Y-pipe allowing air in & then closing when warmed up. Low or uneven compression. These are some of the problems that I read can cause a backfire but the car runs really nice once warmed up. Another issue is the speedo doesn't work. Check engine light is on for Vehicle Speed Sensor. And the POWER light for the trans blinks when you turn the key on. I figure that the tranny Control Unit senses the VSS & is why power light blinks. So does this mean the Tranny is in a "SAFE MODE" not performing at its best because the computer sensed a problem? It feels like it could have more acceleration & performance is what im getting at. Any helpful suggestions, comments, questions or information is highly appreciated! THANKS.
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My 95 Legacy recently rolled over 300k and im about due for a oil change also trans/diff. I have changed oil with 15-40w last couple times and added some Marvel mystery oil. I went with 15-40w due to the high miles with no issues & before I used 10-40w no problems. My question is should I stick with the 15-40w dino oil or should I change viscosity and/or to a full synthetic/blend? I have read a few guys use the 15-40w in there cars and a shop my friend worked at would use 15-40w in all the older EJ22's & 25's that went thru. But I've recently read that 15-40w doesn't lube as well as thinner oils & that the cleaners in it can be harmful to non-diesel engines. Also what are your idea's about adding a little 80-140w to the 75-90w(80-90w) for the trans/diff to help cushion older parts?Or Is there a good additive to use for this?
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Howdy, I came across your 91' Loyale Wagon posted in the classifieds and was wondering if it was still for sale. Is it a Dual Range 4x4 or Single? How many miles does it have? And you stated the engine is outside of the car for headgaskets, Have you replaced them and put the engine back together or do they still need replaced?
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Right, So the specs of this axle Overall length: 27 1/4 in. Outer spline: 30 Inner spline: 25 Search results will show this axle will fit a '88 Subaru 3-DR 5sp 4WD manual trans. But it also shows a 23 inner spline count axle, which is the one that my car took so Im not sure what the specific difference is that makes the car require THAT spline count. Well anyway, Thank you all for replying. USMB is GREAT!
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I would really like to know if it would fit my '95 Legacy.
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I have a CV Axle I had originally bought for my old '88 GL 3-DR, but when the shop put it on & tried to reverse it out it sheered the holding pin. So they said it was the wrong axle because the spline count was bigger. My question is How do I determine what vehicle the axle is for? I now have a '95 Legacy & had read somewhere that the spline count should be 25 for a '95 & 23 for the GL's. Is this correct? What other specifications could identify the axle?
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Ok, so I got down to the TB, WP & pulleys and started the car, NOTHING! There was no noise, everything was in proper working order, nothing was loose or out of alignment. So now Im kinda stumped, I think it might be the ALT. It was the only pulley acting odd when turned by hand, it would "freeze up" randomly and would make a lil noise. Could an ALT make a grinding sortof ratchet?
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I changed the Timing Belt, WaterPump and Rad at 239,xxx. Im sure i should have went & got the TB kit but I bought the car for $437 from a guy who thought that he blew the motor but I did some research & got some help from USMB & took the chance. My thought was the WP was toast & it was seized completely solid and the TB was gettin just cooked.
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How long should a WP last? I would think longer than 10k. If it matters at all I got the WP from NAPA along with the TB. I had replaced the RAD. when I did the WP & TB, also hoses. (the little one, I beleive its the heater core?) The car has not been driven in overheated state, both fans kick on when AC is on. I just thought that one fan ran all the time. The car runs pretty darn good, but the CEL has thrown me a Knock Sensor Code. I had tried to clean up a few of my sensors & the Knock is cracked & split, so I assume thats why its tripping the code CORRECT? Does the Knock Sensor effect fuel econ and performance quite noticeably?
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95 Subaru Legacy Wagon "L": 249,xxx mi. It has been roughly 7-10K mi's since WP replacement. I havent really got underneath the car yet to pin point the noise exactly, but it seems to be coming from that area. Does a failing Power Steering Pump make that noise? I had recently added that SUBARU COOLANT CONDITIONER to the system, would that cause any problems? I had been worried about a head gasket leak but Im not sure now, becuase it could be symptoms of the WP noy functioning properly.
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COME ON PEOPLE!!! I NEED TO GET THIS FIXED BY MID AFTERNOON, SO PLEASE GIVE ME SOME CLUES/HYPOTHESIZES! Does the WP usually fail with no waringing signs? Besides the "WEEPING" of coolant? Is that typical of a Subaru WP to grumble/grind when not functioning? (Im sure theres probably a 100 ways they can fail) But what noise would a f#<ked up WP make? Would it cause the hose to swell if coolant isn't getting dispersed? Does one RAD Cooling Fan run constantly? Or do they both turn on when needed/AC is activated? Does a knock sensor effect fuel econ. and performance noticeably?
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OK, So the other day I heard a odd kind of grumbling noise when I started my car (95 Subaru Leagacy Wagon "L") gave it a little gas & it went away. But the next I started it & the noise was there again, but it didnt go away this time. I started thinking what all it could be: Altenator-AC-Idler pulley siezing, Loose bolt get tossed around behind the timing belt shields(I KNOW IT WOULD BE CATASTROPHIC), Loose something somewhere etc? So upon inspection nothing screamed problem, however once I made it to work I was putting in new headlight bulbs and noticed my RAD. hose was swollen like you wouldnt/couldnt believe & rock hard. So I really started thinking how it had been running lately: The temp gauge had been registering different at times(but I had thought that was due to one of the RAD. fans not working, the connector plug was kinda fried on one wire, so I pulled it out of the plug & connected it externally with electrical tape [temporarily] to check if it was the prob, it was. So I thought that explained the odd readings every now and again. Should one radiator fan be running ALL THE TIME? or do they both kick on when needed or when AC is on?) So I started to think waterpump, but I had replaced it last year with TB, theres no coolant leaking, & my heater works fine. BUT there is a rumbling/knocking/grinding sort of noise coming from the front of engine, WHAT DO YOU THINK IT IS? PS I found a video on YouTube of a 96 Subaru Outback that makes the same sort of noise, So I thought it would be the waterpump but in the comments a person had said it sounds like a power steering pump like one he had had to replace. YOU TUBE VIDEO}---http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dsZsBpF3YAg
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Yeah thanx for helping out, this web site is a fantastic resouce! Once again thanx for keeping up on my posting, very cool. OREGONIANS ROCK!
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Thanx a bunch for ur input and for continuing to reply, much appreciated! So I got it all together and runs good, but it had overheated on my first test run! But I remember reading about the air pocket in cooling system can cause overheating so I went along and tried to "burp" the air out, and after about 20 min it no longer bubbled, so i started it and Wam Bam stayed at half on temp gauge and heater works great, so it all seems good now. Oh but one last thing, the top radiator was swelled like a balloon and I squeezed it and felt something hard at the rad. outlet. At 1st I thought it was a spring in hose cuz some are like that but then I felt that it had moved, so idk wtf it could be maybe some deposit of sorts or maybe the previous owner had tried some radiator stop leak crap and formed a nasty chunk. But I'm sure it didn't come out of the rad. because when I removed the rad. I had ran water threw it multiply times and there was no sediment/deposits. And really haven't been able to catch it again.
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Well the DS cam and crank are dead on,both motor and belt markings. The PS cam is the one just a lil off, actually its less than a tooth. I dont think i can make the DS cam a lil off to make space for the tensioner, unless i move the crankshaft and then it would be off. So i think im good, i had found a old postings about the same situation and the guy said that the belt marks are pretty much meaningless and are just an aid. What are your feelings about this?
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Ok heres the deal, so i got almost everything back together but i have an issue/question. When i match all the marks up with the motor, im a tooth off with the paint lines on the belt. So i can get the crankshaft(middle) and driver side cam(right) on both motor and belt markings, but when i try to get the pass. side cam(left) to line up I can be one tooth off the motor mark or one tooth off the belt mark. Is that a problem or normal? WHAT SHOULD I DO!? Should i just disregard the belt marks and only go off the motor?
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Ok so heres whats poppin, i pulled off the covers and then the water pump, SEIZED COMPLETELY SOLID! The belt had some "wear" haha, i had seen where it was leaking from the water pump so i got the new pump and the new belt and goin put it all back together in the morning, so ill let ya'll know what the deal is, but im pretty sure its goin be just dandy
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So the bubbles would be popping up in the overflow bottle if the HG has failed? But wouldnt the exhaust gasses escape threw where the coolant is leaking and not show up in the overflow bottle?
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What are some signs of head gasket failure?