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88coupe

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Everything posted by 88coupe

  1. Hi Subie junkies and enthusiasts! Need to know if its been done before, if its worth the time, and any issues that might come up with fitment and/or function? Im sure I could search it out but its kinda "Now or never" deal due to the 95 donor car cost next to nothing but its gotta get picked up REAL SOON or its being hauled off to the smasher. I know its worth it and then some for the parts I'd get outta it BUT I dont have the room to store another car that wont immediately benefit my current daily driver (93 Legacy) situation. I know I KNOW "wtf what are you saying? Plenty of parts that would be beneficial immediately DUMBASS!" Im aware of this but like I said NOW OR NEVER, Sh!t or get off the pot, As Soon As Possible need to snatch up the car for the trans if it will work. Thats the info Im after, if you could shed some light on the situation By all means let it shine Any other time I'd love to hear ya'lls opinion cuz hey were Subaru owners and I look out for my fellow Subie pilot and love to shoot the sh!t when it comes to these flat four (or six, Justy 3cyl, etc) fury wagons, sedans, coupes, hatchs, brats, etc. and Oh and 1 last thing... USMB is one of the best and handy tools to have in your tool box, Thank you all for helping us stay outta the shops and on the road... Or off
  2. Yeah if I can find a set for cheap. I just thought that it might be appealing to potential buyers the choice to lower it or keep the stock hieght.
  3. Hi, just picked up a 92 Legacy for cheap($250) running/driving, no immediate issues or problems. Except who ever had it before the guy I got it from had cut the springs to lower it & its a rough ride. My mission is to just fix it up a little bit and turn it for a profit then hopefully do it again, but here's my question: OEM Springs are a little more then cheap-o Ebay coilover sleeves, so I wanted to know what ya'll thought about putting 'em to the stock shocks without lowering them? Cause the sleeves are cheaper than the springs & since Im selling it it then gives the new owner a choice of ride height, tho it'd be sacrificing quality of ride. To each his own I suppose. That being said what, Whats your opinion/feelings on the subject? Thanks in advance
  4. I started a thread asking opinions about Justy's ECVT & wheel bearings. Anywho ya'll were right, It just took a rubber mallet and a few things to get the old bearings out & new one's in. I used a HD high temp Moly-additive grease in sealess bearings, been geat so far. And pleasent surpirse driving the ECVT, actually moves the car AND EVEN UPHILLS! Haha, does good in town & quite nice on the highway even up steep grades. Solid car at a good price. Also if anyone has parts/accesories for there old justy let me know, its hard to come by some parts. Thanx
  5. Here's some Justy's for sale in Northwest(ish) Oregon/Washington. Damn I've always wanted a 4 door, 4wd, 5 spd Subaru Justy but those seem to be the rarest of the uncommon Justy. Could you imagine how cool one of 'em would be? Like a mini GL/Loyale/Earlier Legacy wagon! Oh man I wish I could have all the odd ball subaru's! An XT/XT6 4wd 5spd, A Brat 4wd w/ a turbo, A solid GL hatch with the cyclops light, ANOTHER "3 door" GL 4wd 5spd w/ or w/o turbo, An RX which is basically a high-end 3 door, A GLF/GLF-5 2dr/coupe, Any 2 door 4wd from the 70's. The list is endless! Their all so "gorgeous" in my eyes but people that dont drive or know a Subaru probably wouldn't think so. http://portland.craigslist.org/clk/ctd/4538171257.html http://portland.craigslist.org/clk/cto/4530926012.html http://salem.craigslist.org/cto/4527890190.html CHECK OUT THIS ONE! LOVE IT, its what makes a Subaru a Subaru. http://seattle.craigslist.org/tac/cto/4539465623.html http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/cto/4542142153.html http://salem.craigslist.org/pts/4534167063.html PARTS CAR http://kpr.craigslist.org/cto/4542555068.html http://eastoregon.craigslist.org/cto/4505119537.html
  6. Yeah there is at least 5 of em on CL in portland and oregon coast. I know they're few & far between but I do see them (parked & never move haha), Weird I thought ya'll just must have hated em cause they aren't quite like other subie's (boxer motor, layout etc.) The one's I HARDLY ever see are the 4 door 4wd models! I WOULD LOVE TO OWN ONE, would never give it up! Check out youtube people make off road buggy's with justy's, Im talking YOU WOULD NEVER GUESS IT WAS MADE FROM A SUBARU JUSTY, crazy awesome!
  7. Just bought a 89 Justy in town for CHEAP, needs a wheel bearing. Anywho I've noticed there is never talk of justy's on the board, is thay because they differ so much from other subies? Or most members dont like them? Well I'd like to get some feedback/thoughts on this buy. 89 Justy, 129,xxx mi(Not 100%), ECVT trans axle, FWD, 2DR, No major or moderate damage, everything works, but needs wheel bearing replaced. I paid $300 local buy from local owner. Also any good write-ups on DIY wheel bearing replacement? Dont hate too hard please just some thoughts about the car, much appreciated fellow Subaru fanatics.
  8. A little bit ago bought a 93 legacy wagon & it ran like SH!T when 1st started each day. Only reasons we went ahead and got it was the price, pretty cheap for the condition it was in (besides driving performance) & it would clear up and run pretty good once warmed up. After multiple threads & posts I tracked down a few issues that caused its lacking performance. 1ST was timing, it was off 2-3 teeth. I couldnt believe that because it ran so good when it warmed up. 2ND previous owner had those Bosch 4 tip platinum plugs in it, immediately in went NGK's, it helped. 3RD Coolant temp sensor was shot, idled at 2000-3000+ rpm's for a while at first start of the day. Not any more. BTW the EASIEST way to tell if the coolant temp sensor is crap is to just turn key to "ON" pos. and if your fans start or stay running NON-STOP its shot. Granted fans will run if the car has been drivin recently & is stil hot/warm but if they dont stop after 30min then its toast. 4TH cleaned throttle body/IAC valve/PVC/MAF. There's a few things to look into if its running shitty & keeping a high idle.
  9. Im pretty sure a lot of the old GL wagons, sedans and hatch's had skid plates & even the Loyale's. My old 88 3dr had one & a few others I'd seen had them, so I thought even the Legacys had them stock, bummer. Our 93 Legacy has a 2 tone paint job kinda like a Outback which I have never seen on those older models. It's the "classic" Subaru dark green on upper part and that kinda sandy color on the bottom, its what originally drew my eye to the car was the paint scheme. I had seen the car around town for years & I've always wanted to have it & to know if its a factory option, then one day it was on CL for a good deal but the guy didnt post his number so me knowing exactly which house it was at I cruised over knocked on the door & the owner cautiously opened it with " umm... can I help you???". I TOLD him "thats your subaru over there, its for sale, I want it." DONE DEAL. But still dont know about the paint job haha.
  10. The Chilton's book shows it having a VSS 1 & 2. #2 is located at the end of the tranny and sends a signal to the #1 sensor, is what it shows. But there is only one in the 1st gen Legacy's? Do you know where its located?
  11. The car is a 5 speed manual not an auto. Previous owner had told me he replaced the tranny with a used one, I wonder if it originally had a automatic in it? Can automatics and manuals be swapped out in place of one another? With no "major" modifications?
  12. I have seen a EJ22 with leaking head gasket(s) that has been daily driven for over 70,000mi with a gutted thermostat. It ran good, never went above operating temp, and maintained MPG. Although radiator hose would balloon up, it would hold pressure for days and would have quite a bit of foam at the top. I think it eventually got a safety rad cap with the lever opened a little bit to help release pressure instead of blowing a hose or seal. I'll still see the car around from time to time. So there is a chance to keep the car running/driving for a little while so you can get enough money to replace the head gaskets.
  13. I was tuning up my 95 Legacy yesterday with cleaning/testing throttle body & Position Sensor, PCV, MAF, etc. Started looking for my EGR valve to take a whack at but could not find it. Checked the Chiltons manual & tells/shows where it "should" be also says that testing the EGR is done by OnBoardDiagnostics & I have OBDII so wouldnt it be somewhere Checked online for pictures and where the EGR Pipe should be is crimped off. What is the meaning of this? Im boggled.
  14. The overflow bottle has a small hole near the top on the side against the radiator. I'd say its not too much bigger than a wooden match stick and coolant will drain out between the bottle & rad, then as it cools down coolant is drawn back into the rad and it'll be low. That draining coolant could evaporate before its seen leaking as its a small flow sandwiched between the bottle and a hot radiator. I actually noticed this exact situation in my car yesterday, I removed the bottle when draining out the system and the backside had a coolant residue which was kinda "cooked" on. It did come off with some soap & brush.
  15. Recently picked up a 93 Legacy for freeway commuting & had a few bugs to work out. Main thing was when you started it up in the morning the idle would be pretty high and it would backfire(out of intake) until warmed up then it ran fine. Turns out the timing belt jumped some teeth so was off, Surprised it even would start let alone run & quite well once warm for timing being so far off. Well before USMB members gave a push in right direction I was checking simple stuff, I checked the plugs & were not what I was expecting, Bosch 4 ground platinum's. Right away I thought that was the problem cause MOST all Subaru owners stick with OEM NGK Plugs and say they're the best for Subaru's. Immediately went to NAPA got new NGK's and well it fix the backfiring problem it did run much nicer then with BOSCH 4 Platinum's. Im not to eager to use anything but Standard NGK's with our Subaru's.
  16. Yeah I was skeptic of em & had never heard of the brand so I thought I'd ask what ya'll thoughts were. Didn't ever think to try some out in my car, much too risky.
  17. Came across this video on YouTube & couldn't find any info in topics or posts. Im not sure what to think, Is it real or is it BS?
  18. Additional cooler is not a bad idea, they're pretty cheap overall & could install without a whole lotta work. What stage cooler would be recommended: Light, Medium, Heavy Duty? So adding a inline filter is near pointless for the older 4EAT's? I kinda thought that if the newer models had additional filters added to their design that the 4EAT needed extra filtration to ensure prolonged operation. What is the "average" life span of a 4EAT with proper maintenance & up keep? HEY! This is a little off topic but can a Crankshaft Sensor from a 2nd gen Legacy be "engineered" to plug in to the stock connector of a 1st gen Legacy? The reason I ask is they look identical but the 2nd gen is 1/8 of the price of a 1st gen sensor, About $25 compared to $200! Also can it be done with the Camshaft Sensor? And would a Vehicle Speed Sensor from a junk yard be worthless or is it worth a shot? Car has been without Speedo function since purchase, CEL indicates VSS.
  19. Is the TPS adjustable, from the small screw holding it in place there looks to be a small margin of movement?
  20. So the addition of a Inline Filter is not such a bad idea considering material can contaminate the ATF & also the 4EAT was fitted with more filters later in the production. Maybe its overkill but my understanding of 4EAT's is they're prone to malfunction & operation failure, more so than most automatics. Im not hating on 'em but its all info I got off USMB or similar sites. There is a lot of "conflicting ideas & opinions" from forum members, so its difficult sometimes to cipher through and draw a solid conclusion from threads & posts when each "answer or educated estimate" conflicts with another. How many quarts does a 4EAT take? And how many needed for a solid flush?
  21. Well the thing Im worried about is the car has over 310k mi and is drivin 250mi + every week round trip out of town and back commute. The engine has been replaced (with a EJ20) but I dont have much past info of the tranny so I want to take preventive maintenance precautions to ensure vehicle operation. This is my fathers car and I want to be sure of its reliability & safety. Is it harmful to use a cleaner/flush additive before fluid change?Also the reason to replace filter because it could get filled with deposits and/or debris after using additive. Are the 4EAT filter screens made of actual metal mesh screen material or is it some kind of paper media? What is the majority feeling of adding extra magnets to the pan?
  22. So this "Automatic Transmission Filter" is what some call a "pickup screen"? http://contentinfo.autozone.com/znetcs/product-info/en/US/chl/TF222/image/4/ They dont really get dirty so they dont need replaced? All of the ATF goes threw that screen right? So the majority believe the Auto Trans Filter/Pickup Screen is not worth replacing? So a '93 Legacy Auto Trans (4EAT) doesn't have any other filters besides "Pickup Screen" & the external option from Subaru? I have read that adding a extra filter to a 4EAT is a good option to help operation & longevity. Would a in-line filter be usable or would it restrict flow too much? What about adding extra magnets inside the pan? How do you all feel about using additives in the tranny, Any specific brand that you stand by? Because wanted to use a cleaner before the fluid change & a additive with the new ATF. Inline Auto Trans Filters http://s7d9.scene7.com/is/image/GenuinePartsCompany/NWMDC?$Product=GenuinePartsCompany/1471439 Can a Inline Power Steering Filter be used as a Inline Auto Transmission Filter? They look similar but they flow rate might be different. http://www.rockauto.com/getimage/getimage.php?imagekey=2322336&imageurl=http%3A//my.cardone.com/Imagesftp/20/200038F-01.jpg
  23. 93 Legacy - New timing belt & water pump, Tune-up, Intake system cleaned, new filters etc. The car runs much better but still seems auto trans is sluggish. No real hard shifting or slipping but lacking umpf. I would like to change the fluid and filter screen & dont want to have a shop do it- prices are high, employee's are inexperienced, parts and performance lack workmanship & quality. I want to Drain the whole system not necessarily flush it, just get out all the old fluid out & replaced. I have searched on "how to do it yourself" & have a general idea of what to do. Take one of the trans cooler lines off to pump out the old fluid that isnt in the pan, Drain & remove pan then clean it out & remove old gasket material/residue, replace filter/screen gasket & trans pan, And refill with ATF. More or less this is the "How to" I found but very simplified. I think pumping/draining out of the cooler line would be done before the pan right? Would new fluid need to be added while pumping out so system doesnt run dry? I'd rather not run a bunch of new fluid in it just to throw it away. I would like to know if anyone has done a flush or drain the whole system at home & what procedure(with details) was used, problems or issues occurred, *lack of a better term* "Tricks"/techniques to use. What brand ATF is most commonly used by members? Any bad experiences with NAPA brand/Or similar ATF? What is a good way to clean trans out before adding new ATF? I was thinking about adding SeaFoam Trans Tune to help clean it out. Anyone used SeaFoam Trans Tune (not regular seafoam) before? Also read that Trans-X has been used & recommended by quite a few subaru owners in their auto's to help or prevent issues. Add SeaFoam Trans Tune drive a few miles, drain & replace with new fluid and Trans-X additive, what do you think? Any & All helpful information or ideas and opinions are appreciated, hope to get replies/responses ASAP, Thanks.
  24. *** UPDATE *** Changed the timing belt and water pump with a GATES belt & a NAPA water pump. It fired up right away with no backfiring or chatter & performs much better. The timing is in proper specs and everything checked out, the belt & water pump I bought for a 93 Legacy EJ22 was the same fit for the replacement EJ20 engine. Thanks for the information & help, USMB is a great tool to have!
  25. UPDATE*** So I checked the timing & to not much surprise it was off, but what was surprising was how off time it was. It looked to be at least 2 - 2.5 teeth off (maybe 3)!!! WHAT THE ****? I was under the impression that being a 1/2 tooth off could cause it to not start or at least barley start and run like crap. And being a whole tooth or more would warrant the engine nonoperational, yet it was more than that and it started up every time & would run & drive all day but would backfire & idle high on initial cold start. So anywho it was the timing so changed the belt and water pump, checked the idlers and sprockets put it back together & it fired up right away no backfiring what so ever & MUCH better performance. There were a few things I found that I want to know more about tho, such as the crank shaft position sensor had a slight dent in it. I searched and found a few pictures of others that I would consider "smashed" at the end & how the owner couldnt even get it out of the hole without ripping the thing apart. But not to much explanation was given besides assumptions of belt jumping teeth & hitting the sensor, that is quite a ways for the belt to jump to touch the sensor. Any thoughts on what could cause a dented/dinged/smashed Crank Shaft Position sensor? Also the idle is still what I would consider "above average" on start up, but lower than before the timing was done. Where do the most common vacuum leaks occur on this generation of Legacy? What else should I check out? Thanks in advance for helpful info & Thanks to the few who replied already, Much appreciation.
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