Fairtax4me

The exhaust doesn't have to be removed, it's nice to have a little extra room but far from necessary. The transmission cross member doesn't need to be moved either, I did mine without moving the mount. It might be easier with it out of the way though. The transmission might lower an inch or so with the mount removed but there are three other mounts holding it, you can push the end up with your hands if you decide you need the cross member out of the way.

What they said, probably just the contacts in the starter. There used to be a seller on eBay that had kits with new contacts.

Is this the one that had the oil pressure light on? ( I might be thinking of the wrong person) The crank can probably be undersized and reused with the proper size bearings. Take ot to a machine shop and ask what they would do. Sometimes it can just be polished out and be fine. Might be cheaper to get a good used crank though.

I'm much more worried about pulling the threads out of the head than the bolt breaking.

The only thing that has to come off to inspect the center diff is the tail housing assembly. The transfer housing stays put. Trans doesn't even have to be removed from the car. The tail housing comes off then the center diff and transfer gears can be removed.

Uh-oh... The center diff might be asploded. Or getting ready to. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=128615&highlight=Transmission+squeal

Hmmm, what year and model is this car?

Yeah I didn't think 35 was right. That's an awful lot for a little 10mm bolt.

No. Not yet at least.

There were two different styles of linkage. One is a "non-serviceable" type, with a post that has the end cold punched to hold it in. The other type just has bolts and you can remove them to replace the bushings. I had one of the unserviceable ones and cut the smashed end off of the post and knocked it out with a punch. If you get a bolt from one of the serviceable types it fits right in place of the post, Then you can replace the bushings easily, don't even have to remove the PITA roll pins from selector rod.

Decided I'm gonna sell my wagon, so on Tuesday I took out my Delta torque cams and swapped in a stock set. Swapped the rocker assembly as well because I didn't feel like taking the shims out. Took it for a drive and all was well. Drove it ~15 miles Wednesday and everything was fine. This afternoon left the house and heading out west of town, going up a long hill it starts to feel a little sluggish. Crest the hill and going down the other side I hear "the clatter". Start going up the next hill and it's waaaaay down on power, feels like it's misfiring, making a TON of racket, find the first safe spot to pull over and pop the hood. There's oil everywhere under the right valve cover, and I look close and see why. It's MOVING!!!! :eek: Apparently I didn't tighten the bolts that hold the rocker assembly to the head. Or I just didn't get them tight enough maybe. Not real sure, either way it almost ended in absolute complete catastrophic disaster. So anyway, I pop the valve cover off on the side of the road and tighten the bolts, back together, fire it up and it's misfiring. Pull plugs 1 and 3 and they are both wet with fuel but otherwise clean. Dried them with intake system cleaner popped back in still misfiring on one cylinder, flashing CEL and the code says it's number 1. Limp it down the road to a little better spot hoping the misfire clears up. Still misfiring when I get to a gravel parking lot about 2 miles down the road, pull the plug again and again it's wet. Clean it back in, start it up, no change. Right as I'm about to shut it off again the god of internal combustion parts the clouds, and the light shines down from car heaven upon the stricken Screwbaru. With one last cough it sputters and kicks then runs perfectly smooth like nothing ever happened. Misfire cured itself, maybe one of the valves was hanging open I dunno. Drove it the rest of the way to where I was going because it was closer than home. Then drove home later with no noises and no misfiring. My embarrassing story of the week. I hope the next person who owns this car has better car Ju-Ju than I do. It's fine when I do nothing, but every time I mess with it...

Finxed. Couldn't figure out how to copy and paste photobucket links with the iPhone. :-p

There's a big vacuum canister (coffee can) that sits on top of the passenger side wheel well next to an array of half a dozen vacuum and solenoids. Zip tied it on top the canister. Been there for two years, hasn't moved yet! Don't think I have a pic. I can take one tomorrow.

Most common problem on the MT is the main shaft roller bearing. How many miles on this thing? Mine took the dirt nap at 190k. Got a FWD trans with ~190k that is about to go. Trans it replaced had ~225k and I can move the main shaft fore/aft far enough to engage 4th and 5th gear.

Forgot to add, I gapped the plugs on my truck at .065" after putting the msd in. Stock gap is .043". That made a noticeable difference as well, even with the stock coil.

I put a water pump on my 96 with the fans still in. Had to move the overflow bottle but that's only two screws. The trick was getting the center belt cover out of the way. Turn it sideways and it will go out the bottom.

Tried car-part.com? Dunno specifics for Awd, but I got a Fwd out of a 91 and put in a 95 no problem. Had to swap the speed sensor and the bracket for the mount but they appeared identical otherwise.

Seen your cat lately? :-p Probably fiberglass packing from the resonator pipe or muffler. Not sure if Subaru ever put fiberglass in their mufflers but I know some makers do for sound insulation.

The kit I just ordered from Mizumo came with brown cam and crank seals. Not sure how they compare in quality to OE seals but they look very similar.

What was the exact fluid you used? Fixing the shifter bushings will improve the overall feel. A writeup on Rs25.com http://www.rs25.com/forums/f105/t58760-diy-shifter-wobble-fix.html

P1143 Subaru Pressure Sensor Circuit Low Input This is another MAP sensor code. Likely a vacuum leak. Check the hoses that run over to the passenger side strut tower. There are two little "sensors" over there with vacuum hoses connected. The hoses run from the switching solenoid (the one with multiple hoses) to the engine and should hook up to the back side of the number three intake runner. There is a diagram on the bottom of the hood showing where the hoses should go to. Make sure your hoses are routed to match that. Also check the hoses for splits and dry rot. make sure they are firmly attached at both ends. My guess is the P0420 code will go away once the MAP sensor codes are fixed.

The keyway is a bit of a loose fit. I don't think it should wiggle though. Where did you get the new one?

Methinks you got a master cylinder goin bad. I've had similar happen before. Tried to bleed the system out after it wouldn't pump up and it wouldn't bleed. Got a small amount of fluid into the bleed hose but it would just draw back when the brake pedal was released. Had a friend assist by locking the bleeder down while I was pumping the pedal and still could not get the pedal to feel right. Put a vacuum bleeder on it and finally got it bled out. Not long after the pedal started "sinking". Replaced master and all was well. The new master bled perfectly fine just by pressing the pedal.

They really look like roller rockers to me. I think the lighting is just so out of whack we can't see the whole roller on those exhaust rockers. They're from an engine that was IN a 93? Possible the heads and/or engine were swapped at some point in the past.

OK, there are two access panels under the carpet in the cargo area behind the back seat. One on each side. Pull the carpet back and take the panels off. There isn't much room but you might be able to see if the tank is leaking from around the sending units.