Fairtax4me

Most modern cars the horn is relayed because the wiring in the steering column is tiny. Old cars that had one button for the horn were simple, they had a big metal ring and some huge wires for the current to pass through. New cars have up to a dozen wires wrapped up in the clock spring, and they just aren't big enough to carry the current that the horn needs. So they use the tiny wires to activate a relay instead.

If the relay clicks then at least that much works. Cruise control could be a vacuum related problem. Fuse? Dunno about jumpering the ground and this connector to that to test the horn. You can rig up a button pretty easy though. Some even have a little picture of a horn on the button.

Well that just makes no sense. :-p We can only make suggestions. It's all part of the wild and wonderful world of car repair, just learning a little something here and there is all that counts.

I've done both ways, but not on an EA car. The process is similar enough on any car though. If you have a big floor jack (18-20 inches of lift with a 4" pad) you can lower the trans in an hour or so without having to drain any fluids.

I remember that, I was on that team. :-p My point right now is, you have lifters! They're 3 minutes worth of turning a wrench away. You can just borrow a whole rocker assembly off one of your new heads until your current engine decides to take the dirt nap, then pop it back on the new engine when you do the swap. Catch my drift?

You might never learn. You're still buying new parts and you have a whole set of perfectly good lifters in a pair of heads sitting on a shelf!?! Or are the "new" heads bare? No cams/rockers? :-p sorry I gotta ask.

I see you swapped the TPS, but did you calibrate it? The Ecu has to see 0.5v from the TPS when the throttle is closed or it will act stupid. Like revving the engine, or idling stupid, or bucking and stalling. What year engine did you install? Did you use the old wire harness or the one on the "new" engine?

Clock spring. I'ts the only thing that makes sense if it depends on wheel position.

Or just wait for someone to post the specifications page from it.

Canned cleaners work fine. I use brake cleaner most of the time since I usually have plenty of it around.

Check fluid? Level low? PO might have pulled the axle stubs out and chewed the seals up, then all the fluid leaked out.

Is it AWD or FWD? If AWD you not only need to match electronics, but also need to get one with the same differential ratio.

You can check in the FSM here: http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/

Yeah the HLAs can hold the valves open. Is this one of the dohc engines? I don't know much about those, especially the ones they never brought to the US, butis there any way an intake lifter and exhaust lifter (if theres a difference) could be switched on installation?

Since you have the rocker assembly out, disassemble it and make sure there is no obstruction in the rocker shaft and rocker arm that the questionable lifter was in.

Retorqueimg will not work because there are spacers in the bolt grommets that bottom out when the bolts are tightened. It's to prevent over-tightening and damaging the gasket. When they start leaking you just have to replace them.

What was wrong with the side you replaced? If it was just a ripped boot repack it put a new boot on and put the OE back on the car. Send the empi axles back. Also, the extra cost for MWEs, worth it. Ground shipping isn't that bad. USPS parcel post is usually half what FedEx or UPS charges. I shipped two cores back FedEx ground for under $20.

Depends on the size of the bolt, But most of the larger bolts should be 10.9. Go to Fastenal or another fastener store for metric hardware. Most local hardware places are useless for metric stuff, especially 10.9.

12 point sockets are useful in certain aspects. For hammering a smaller socket onto a rounded fastener they work much better than 6 point sockets. For the matter at hand, big breaker bar and a cheater pipe. Those lower strut bolts can be really tight, and it's that much worse if theyre rusty.

Some of The infinite wisdom of GD! Thanks for the tip!

Just pull the head. Its got problems. Either a burned valve or a hole in the piston.

You checked wiring between the ecu and igniter, what about between the igniter and coil?

Piston slap is iminenet regardless. That's just what the 2.5s do. Rebuilding is probably not worth it, a block with fewer miles can be dropped in in much less time and will give you several years of good service for half the price of a rebuild. Digging into the block to replace one rod bearing is a waste of time. Others will soon follow.

Score! :-P Oil starvation is a beach. At least you caught it before the car was out on the highway somewhere on the side of the road with dangly bits of camshaft and timing cover/gears/chain.

The main thing is they have to be oil resistant. You can get them at a dealer for a couple bucks. Part number 13396AA000