Fairtax4me

Can't say for sure on the cylinder walls, but the 25 certainly has the appearance of thinner walls. Cylinders are definitely visibly closer together. But I notice the cylinder walls on each move progressively further outwards towards the outer walls of the case. So this proves that the blocks are certainly NOT the same, and are not just bored out larger for the next larger size piston to fit in. Another thing I notice on the 25 block, is the size of the indents in the outer part of the cylinder walls. Awfully small distance to the edge of the compression rings. Anyone that's done multiple HG jobs on those blocks notice if/where there is a typical failure point on the gasket? Could it be nearby those indents?

In-line fuse sounds like a fusible link. Usually with a fusible link the rating is printed or stamped somewhere on the insulation/jacket. If that's the case you can check the wire for continuity from end to end. This assuming there are two wires coming from the alternator, not including the charge lead that goes to the battery/ fuse box. One will go to the gauge (for the light) the other to the fuse panel?

Gloyale did you find out where the ABS control module is? I dug and dug but never found the chart that showed where it actually is. Unplugging the connector at the module could rule it out as the source of the short. You can check for continuity to ground from that connector. If you get no evidence of shorting to ground from there, the module is likely shorted internally.

Yeah good tools aren't cheap, but they sure are worth it. I bought a set of Matco Flare-nut wrenches because I was tired of cheap wrenches expanding and rounding off the hex on brake lines. Worth every penny of the ~$20 per wrench. Even the stuck rusty flare nuts crack loose with no drama. There's just no comparison, the cheapest Snap-On tool box is still better than an expensive Craftsman box.

I press the ground electrode down on something firm (upper radiator support) to close the gap. Use the eyelet in the gap tool to expand it.

That soobs got some Balls! Straight Pipe =

Don't mess with the theottle screw because that will mess up the TPS reading. Put some new plugs in it, run some Seafoam and some strong fuel system cleaner and drive it for a few days. The idle should adjust up on it's own as the ECU learns optimal fuel and spark curves.

Like Bratman said, just because it slieds easy now, doesn't mean it will later. Always clean and re-grease the slides with every pad change. Sometimes it's smart to do it between changes as well to prevent rust.

Junkyard. Not worth wasting that much money at a dealer.

The caliper should just slide off of the pivot. The pivot threads into the bracket.

Well, to be a little more specific, If the Check Engine Light is on the cruise doesn't work. It's to keep you from riding on cruise for hundred of miles and burning up the catalytic converters. Just because the CEL isn't on, doesn't mean it's NOT misfiring. It can take a little time in some cases for the ECU to detect a misfire and figure out which cylinder is causing it. From what I've read you don't have a code for it, but from what you have described it sounds like it's misfiring on a regular basis. If plugs and wires are not Subaru OE or NGK brand, that's always the first place to start.

The sender is probably shot. My buddies truck has a bad sender, when you fill it up the gauge reads 1/4 tank. It never goes above that or below the empty line, you can drive 150 miles with it sitting on 1/4, then it starts to drop, and when it gets to empty you fill it up and it takes 18 gallons. 20 gallon tank. Gauge goes back up to 1/4 and stays there.

How about a rubber O ring? OR just slather some Indian head on it. That stuff seals everything.

That's three words. :-p LMC Truck is the one I was thinking of, but JCW has tons of stuff like that as well. And yes, you cut and glue / rtv / rubber cement corners together if you have a sharp angle to turn. It's how they do it at the factory.

Connector B82 appears to be for the Door Lock Timer. Fuse 18 is power for the ABS control module which IIRC is under the radio in the dash. It also provides power for the Cruise Control module, and main cruise switch. Check Here for the Factory Service Manual for that car. Download pt2. The first link is for RHD cars and all of the wiring is different. http://bustedfingermotorsports.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=170&sid=e5ead9416ece08f7a3f07a35dd7a35f7

Please don't drive this way.

Ehehm,

It was just a guess, I was still convinced it was the TPS! Glad you found the source of the problem! For plugs I run the NGK BKR6E11. NGK part# 2756. <-- The parts store will list this number. Too difficult for the average parts jockey to figure out the long part numbers I guess. But the other number is what's printed on the side of the plug.

He almost drowned the silver one, and I'm pretty sure he broke the Y pipe. The "Overlander" wagon = I want one

My computer doesn't like the second one for some reason. 41 MPG highway!

3 and 4 are on opposite sides so I have a hard time thinking its timing/valve related. New spark plugs and wires will go a long way. Get NGK or Subaru OE wires and plugs.

I used to know of a site where you could get random types of weather strip for everything from doors to windows to whatever else you might be able to think of. Try digging around google for places that sell weather strip by the foot and see if you can find a side profile that matches what you have.

There are some differences in internal gear ratios as you can see in the chart, but the only one that really matters is the diff. Other than that there are some differences in the shift linkage, but thats all external of the transmission. The part that attaches to the shift selector rod on the transmission is easily removable with the trans out of the car. There may be differences in the speed sensors between years, but they all mount in the same place, and are easily interchangeable. Differential output stubs, and the rear driveshaft output are the same. There were some changes made when they switched from cable clutch to hydraulic, but I'm pretty sure the only thing that needs to be changed to make one work on the other is the release lever.

Pretty much any Impreza or Legacy except Outback or GT. Keep with the Base and L models and you're sure to find one. 95 - 99 L model Legacy MT will have the 3.9 final drive ratio you need. For more check the chart here for transmission codes that will work. You have the 5 speed push style clutch. http://www.northursalia.com/techdocs/trannychart/trannychart.html You can even go all the way back to 1990 Legacy if you need to. Only difference is the neutral and reverse light switches need to be swapped and the speed sensor, but the transmission is the same otherwise.

Got a big floor jack? You don't even need to get it all the way out of the car, you just need to get the engine and trans separated far enough to get to the fork. Of course It would also be wise to replace the clutch while you have access to it. Assuming it hasn't been replaced recently. Depending on which way you want to go, you can lift the engine or lower the transmission. Either way is really just as easy/difficult, just depends on what you have available as far as jack/stands/ramps, or a lift. Get a new fork from a dealer (only about $30), and while you are there be absolutely sure to get new clips for the TOB as well. They look like half of a paper clip, but are vitally important. I can drop the trans out faster than I can lift the engine, but it is easier to work on the clutch components with the engine out of the car. The fork is easy to replace once you have access. It's just held on by another piece of metal that looks like a bent around paper clip, all you have to do is tug on it and it pops off of the pivot stud.