Fairtax4me

The SKF looks very much like the Subaru seal. Good chance it's the OE part. I don't know why anyone would pay $25 for it though, its only like $12 at the dealer. :-p

DUDE! You know you need some of these for it!

So wait... Whats next in the TW chapter? TW11? The board might seem a little... empty? without the TW10 thread being always at or near the top of the list!

Probably means the Duty C solenoid is shot, but it could also mean the transfer clutches have chewed notches into the drum and are getting jammed. Since you have mismatched tires (at least one severely worn) I'd bet on the clutch drum being damaged.

P0130 O2 sensor Bank One Sensor One is the front O2 sensor. There are two sensors. Sensor One is on top of the front catalytic converter, if looking down from under the hood its under the passenger axle. Not much easier to see from below either. A 7/8" wrench should fit over the wire connector which is plugged into the main wire harness on top of the left side of the transmission bell housing. It's either a grey or white connector. Second sensor (#2) is further down the line close to the back of the transmission, on top of the second cat. P1101 Neutral switch circuit Off The neutral switch is on the passenger side of the transmission, check the wiring for it. You have a lot of wiring to check if there was a squirrel in the car. Hold off on tracking down the P0500 until you get the neutral switch issue fixed. You may be getting that code because the ECU thinks the car is not in gear when it's moving. P0500 Speed sensor A The one speed sensor is on the passenger side of the transmission. This feeds the speedometer in the dash, and from there is a wire that carries the signal to the ECU and TCU. There is an issue with some models where a few screws on the back of the speedometer work loose and apparently one of the screws makes the contact with the signal wire that goes to the ECU. Worth checking at least. Beyond that, it may be related to the neutral switch code. For wiring diagrams check out this website: http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/

I think they're somewhere in the neighborhood of 10.9 steel (metric equivalent of grade 8), so that they are the least likely to round off. Last time I cut a 10.9 bolt it was an 18mm thread and took about 10 minutes of constant cutting with a pneumatic die grinder. VERY hard steel. I can imagine trying to drill it would be nearly impossible without some serious bits and a drill press.

Welcome to the forum! The water pump pulley is not removable. There is no reason to remove the pulley. If the pump fails it gets replaced. Why are you trying to remove the pulley?

If its the kind that fits on the lower left corner of the dash kinda under the vent on that side, the bottom part hinges, click that in place first ( may take some force) then swivel the tray up and towards the dash then the little tabs on each side should click into the opening.

Did you put a spark tester on the coil to check all 4 or just looked for an arc from the post? The coil fires in pairs 1-3 at the same time, 2-4 at the same time. If you can confirm no spark from just one post the coil needs to be replaced.

Will the place you bought the "new" engine from take it back? I would tell them they better....

You might be able to buy some time with a bottle of Lucas oil stabilizer.

Sparkly oil!? Yeah you can stick a fork in that thing, its done.

This could be the pump, a hose, a simple O ring on the rack at one of the fittings. The pump can be easily rebuilt for about $40 in parts if the seals are leaking. If you have a vice and a brass hammer you can rebuild it.

Much easier to just replace. Front diff requires disassembly of a large portion of the transmission in order to set the pinion depth correctly. The labor required for this makes it very impractical to replace just the differential. If the diff goes, the whole transmission goes with it. Rear diff is easy enough to swap. Unbolt old, bolt new (used) in.

It's probably that way to limit oil flow in the turbo, and keep pressure up in other parts of the engine. The turbo is fed by the same gallery that feeds the camshaft and rockers in the passenger side head. If too much oil is allowed to flow into the turbo, the camshaft may be starved and seize, which is a much more damaging condition than worn bearings in the turbo.

I'd definitely check the PCV system first. I would not expect to have valve seal issues with that low mileage.

A small amount of play is inherent with that type of design so the shaft can move freely. If there were no play the shaft might get stuck and cause binding. This is something I wouldn't think twice about. A new seal is only a few dollars and might take 45 minutes to install.

FSM says 10-12 psi at warm idle is normal. Hook up a gauge in place of the sender and get an actual pressure reading rather than relying on a light. I think it would be worth pulling the oil pump to have a look at the backing plate. In 30 minutes you will know if it's a mechanical failure of the pump or a condition internally that is causing the low pressure reading.

Yeah, there is a small amount of play which is considered normal but it's in the low hundredths of an inch range IIRC. Pretty much un-noticeable by hand feel. 1/8" is a LOT of play.

High pitch is likely to be a differential. The only thing you can do to buy some time is change the fluid. Pretty simple drain and refill. The condition of the fluid should tell you which diff (front or rear) is making the noise. As to your question does your car have a transfer case, yes and no. In the auto trans, there is a transfer unit in the transmission but it is electronically controlled by a solenoid that varies fluid pressure on a set of clutches. Manual trans has a set of gears and a fluid filled coupling combined into a center differential which balances power output between front and rear driveshafts. Both however, share the fluid of the transmissions they are built into.

What size wheels and tires are on your car? They look kinda tiny. You may be well suited to find a tire that will give an extra half inch in height, and put 1/2" spacers on the struts to bring the ride height up without changing the wheel arch clearance.

One quart low on oil for a short time is not enough to cause significant damage. I don't think the 2.2 is prone to piston slap. Regardless, piston slap is not something that just starts out of the blue. With that many miles it's likely a worn rod bearing.

Does the whine change pitch at all when you accelerate or decelerate? Generally front differential whine will change slightly. A wheel bearing is more likely to be a steady sound with no change during accel/ decel.

Usually the bearing in the strut mount is on the bottom. Spraying the underside of the mount, above the spring plate should get the grease into the bearing. https://www.carpartsdiscount.com/auto/archive/pictures/20295/600/1/P/1FEC2FF/volvo_940_1993_skf_strut_mount_bearing_oem_3530341.jpg

No the seal pops out easily with a screwdriver and can be driven back in with a large socket or section of PVC pipe. Unless there is internal damage, there is no reason to replace bearings. Where the driveshaft goes into the transmission is whats called a slip joint. This means the end of the driveshaft can slip in and out a bit to prevent binding of the shaft when the engine and transmission move. (rotational forces from the front axles cause the engine/trans to pitch fore/aft while accelerating or decelerating). This joint makes removal of the driveshaft very easy, once the shaft is separated either in the middle or from the rear differential, and the carrier bearing in the center of the driveshaft unbolted from the bottom of the car, the slip joint on the transmission end of the shaft slides right out. There is a dust shield that may need to be removed, but it can be knocked off with a hammer and screwdriver. Then the old leaking seal can be pried out and replaced with a new one. http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b11/type_6/automatic_transmission/at_transfer_and_extension/illustration_1/ The #2 with the circle around it is the seal in question. If you can take a picture of the leak source and post it, we can make sure that's the problem before you go buying parts or paying someone else a lot of $$$$$ to do work it may not need.