Fairtax4me

Yeah they make them for small trucks. Most of your 3/4 or Ton trucks will handle one of the hydraulic assemblies with ease. A 1/2 ton can still push a 6 or 7 foot blade, but the front suspension isn't designed for the weight of an ~8ft blade and the hydraulic control equipment that goes along with it. If it was a 1/2 ton truck, a front end collision could easily damage the frame which would send the repair bill through the roof.

What kind of truck was it? (assuming this was a pickup with a winch lift blade)

I don't think so. I'm all for searching, I quite frequently search (usually unsuccessfully). And I'm just as glad to see people use the search function rather than starting new threads about the same thing there were three threads on last week. (hypothetically)

But seriously. No, Vtec didn't do it. I did notice the wear pattern on the seat of the old valve seemed to have a curved profile. When I "ground" it, the small high spot on the seat flattened out. Wondering if the wear might be abnormal, and if so could it have been a contributor to this case? This engine did also have a faulty knock sensor...

These old threads are interesting sometimes. Fun to watch the replies.

I leave the joint on the arm and get it out of the knuckle first. They tend to seize in there and you can get better leverage with a big prybar between the knuckle and control arm. Once that's loose a pickle fork and 3lb mini sledge gets the stud out of the control arm with little trouble. Getting the bolt out of the knuckle is the only part I really worry about.

The housing is held on by a screw or two. Pry the lens off the lights with a small screw driver inserted into the rearward edge of the lens. There are two dimples where the tabs are that hold it on. Once the lens is off the attaching screws will be visible.

Could be a lot of things. Was this a swap? Did you try adjusting the throttle cable where it attaches to the manifold?

Certainly. A chain can be a blessing or a curse. I tend to think Subaru would take a page out of the H6 book and design the FB with a similar chain setup. But if they went to Jaguar for advice they may be breaking guides at 120k miles and leaving you with the irritable valve syndrome. Most modern chains do not need replacement until around 250k miles in my experience. There are the occasional bad apples, but for the most part you don't hear about broken chains like you do belts.

The compound was left from where I used the old valve to clean up the seat before lapping the new valve. All compound was removed and surfaces throughly cleaned before reassembly.

95 Ej22 at 178k. The grey stuff is valve grind compound. But you can see the important part. Now what I've read about burned valves, it would seem that cheap/bad gas would cause this. But the car was being driven up the long side of a steep mountain road, by a college student, when it "happened". Thoughts?

Excessive valve lash will tend to get louder once the engine is warm. That many miles on a phase one 2.5, it's valve clearances are in need of adjustment. Do that before you end up with a burned valve and have to do more work.

Not if the anti drain-back valve is functioning properly. But even if it did, any "crud" would just go back into the pump side, so it would get sucked right into the new filter when the engine is started. I like the timing chain most. No more broken timing belts to kill your engine. Probably a pita to reseal the timing covers if they start leaking though.

Wow, those are deep. I dunno man. I could see with enough buildup that a flush and refill might knock some crud loose and cause a leak somewhere like the radiator or heater core.

I can only imagine they should be of the same type on each side of the car. Meaning, a new vehicle would not have one type of axle on say the left side and a different type on the right or vise versa. Front vs Rear may have different joint types because the rear wheels do not turn. Obviously at that age there has been ample time for the boots on the original axles to split. People tend to replace the entire axle when that happens since it is easier. So it's no stretch of the imagination to think at least one if not more axles have been replaced by now.

You sure? I saw one sitting on the counter at my local dealer last week when I picked up my head gasket and valve. Maybe it was for a different engine though I dunno.

Quite common on modern engines. BMW, Mercedes, Audi, Saab have all done this for years. They just use cartridge type filters instead of the canister type. It makes an oil and filter change very quick and simple, with no need to lift the car, and if done properly, there is no mess to clean up afterwards.

What are you doin' in Oakland man? Needed a change of scenery?

Don't have much time to help, but you can download the FSM for 95 from here: http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/

I've seen some aftermarket replacements, but they're always listed for the Impreza. 93 to 99 Impreza (all trims), 95 - 04 Legacy (all trims), and 98 - 01 Forester (all trims) use the same part. It's fairly simple but the bushing has to be pressed out of the control arm, and the new bushing pressed in. Subaru OE replacement PN: http://www.subarupartsforyou.com/cp_partdetail.php?partid=13224

Come on man you gotta have a tree out back, or in front, or in your neighbors yard.

The cable runs under the carpet/back seat then into the trunk on the passenger side. Probably more of a pita than it's worth to replace, but I would imagine you could fish it out without having to tear apart too much. It might be something simple like the handle broke.

Certainly doable so long as nothing around the "new" mounting point interferes with the sensor. I figure Subaru had a good reason for mounting it where they did, but it should operate the same as long as it is attached to a solid area of the block.

You set them at the marks and leave them alone.

If they've lasted 2 years the HGs are probably Subaru replacements and are undoubtedly doing fine. Gut the cat put a spacer on the rear O2 sensor and call it good. If it isn't rusting out underneath $1500 is a pretty good deal for needing only minimal work.