Fairtax4me

Testing injectors at 9v proves nothing really. The ECU pulses that trigger the injectors are only 5v. Plus you have no idea what the spray pattern looks like or what the flow rate is. I didn't see this anywhere, did you do a compression check yet? Just for gits and shiggles? Also saw no mention that the valve timing has been checked and confirmed correct.

The knock sensor is famous for causing all sorts of trouble on Subarus. If you have a code for it, it probably needs to be replaced. Search for Knock Sensor here on the forums for directions on how to do it. There may be a link in the "similar threads" at the bottom of the page here.

Pretty obvious.

Ah, you want a challenge. Find a paint supply shop, and buy automotive grade paint and clearcoat (if you want a glossy finish). Good paint will hold up fine on wheels. And if they'll be sitting for a while before being put on the paint will have plenty of time to cure.

Pretty sure the OP states MT in the first post. As for the Neutral Position switch. Has nothing to do with starting on manual trans. Clutch switch on manual prevents starting, Inhibitor switch on auto trans will prevent starting. 3 different switches, 3 different names, 3 different functions. (3 number threes, 3 word sets, 3 words each! ) [/number game] There may be some small movement, but probably nothing to worry about. Not entirely sure how this particular valve works but if it doesn't move, don't try to force it. When you removed the IAC, did you reinstall it with a new gasket from Subaru? Very important because the old gaskets stretch and do not seat/seal properly if re-used. Don't go ordering more expensive parts until you get a better idea of what is going on. You'll just be throwing money at it, and may still not fix the problem. So it sets the code even if you free rev in neutral? Trans in neutral, foot off clutch correct? Just for gits and shiggles, check the two little connectors on the passenger side of the bell housing right up on op of the block. One grey (I think), one brown. Make sure they're both firmly connected. Not sure how much this will help, was the closest year I could find on short notice. Click the 2005.zip link to download the pdf, and you shall be blessed with the knowledge and instruction of Subaru FSM. http://people.csail.mit.edu/ilh/vacation/ (Factory Service Manual)

You'll smell it. You could also pull one plug at a time after priming the system 3 or 4 times and sniff around the hole. (that sounds kinda dirty to be honest... ) Fresh gas will be evident if there is a leak.

To check for a leaking injector? Just pull the plugs out. Much easier on these. Remove plugs, prime fuel system. Just don't try to crank it with the coil pack plugged in.

Not sure if that part gets "hot". Too much heat in one place on the windshield can actually cause it to crack. It also may only work when outside temp is below a certain point.

The neutral position switch tells the ECU when the trans is in gear, not when the clutch is engaged, and has nothing to do with starting. Just because there is no code for it, doesn't mean something can't be wrong. Fault codes are not tell all end all for diagnosis.

Hell no! It's OBD1! The damn thing could be on fire and it wouldn't throw a code. But in all seriousness, these are EXTREMELY picky about their "precious" knock sensors. If it's cracked you need a new one.

I could see this being a problem with the neutral position switch on the trans. When does the CEL come on again after you clear the code? Does it come back immediately at start, or only once the problem occurs?

Call your local dealer and ask who they use for wheel repairs. Theree are plenty of mobile wheel repair companies who can come to you and paint the wheel for you for $100 or so per wheel. Probably cheaper if you do the sanding.

Newer style intake. Older ones had the filter mounted on the passenger fender, and had a MAF sensor. It's at least 97. From other ppls posts looks like it's still a 2.2, just not the good 2.2. :-\

What is the vacuum reading on the gauge? Should be up in the 19-20" range at idle. AFAIK the ECU makes all changes to fuel/air mixture, there should be no adjustment on the throttle body, though I could be wrong about the older models. There is an adjustment for the IAC, but you need a select monitor to do it. I wouldn't mess with that any. To clean the IAC, just remove the idle air hose (the large one that goes to the IAC) from the intake tube, block the throttle open so the engine runs about 2000 rpm, and pour seafoam or some intake system cleaner (a little at a time) down the hose into the IAC. About half a can should do.

Timing Belt. Maybe. Kinda has that compression leaking sound when it cuts off. What year is it? Looks like a 2.5? Any smoke in the exhaust?

Yeah I figured it was there because you need to "persuade" something. The angle of the pic looks like it's stuck in the hub like a spinner!

Not bad. I like the hammer in the wheel mod! Roman chariot FTW!

Yeah the 16"s will fit. Pretty sure the lug pattern is the same for the two of those. Might want to check into that.

Oh believe me, I've done worse. It's probably not a huge deal that this particular circuit of the cooling system stay functional, but I already bought the other two hoses, and now I'm hell bent on finding the right part for this. It's gonna get replaced, dammit! It's OCD, it has to be just so, or it'll drive me crazy.

Go buy a cherry bomb (glasspack, aka: resonator) and stick it somewhere inline before the muffler, If that doesn't quiet it done enough you might have to get a muffler with smaller pipes. Maybe try a 2" or 2.25" rather than 2.5.

Bingo! More than likely, the P0420 code is the result of readings from the new sensor. Search P0420 and you'll find a thousand threads about it, and plenty of info about what to do to remedy the cause.

Do you still have the old O2 sensor? What brand was the new one?

Pretty sure they did, just not recently.

It's MT. I thought about just pulling them all off. Wasn't entirely sure what consequences there might be from doing so, but did think about freezing/icing since it does get fairly cold here in the winter. This section consists of 3 hoses and goes from the crossover to the bypass/heater pipe on top of the drivers side head. Crossover to IAC, IAC to TB, then TB to bypass pipe. A hose between each one. Not sure which way it flows. Opposed forces lists the same PN that the dealer does. I actually noticed it there first, then went to the dealer to get the correct pn, only to find the listing the same.

Not entirely. Ultra Low Sulfur Highway Diesel fuel (required for all highway use since Jan. 2007) pretty much passes emissions tests on its own. (except in CA.) Add a high efficiency catalytic converter to the mix (also required on all 2007 and later diesel vehicles) and new diesel engine cars are more eco friendly than most hybrids. They just don't sell as well here in the US because drivers want the quicker response of gasoline power. Jeep tried the diesel thing a few years back, ditched it pretty quick. BUT, I blame that on using the wrong platform. I think it would have done very well in a Wrangler, and as far as I know they only ever offered it in the Liberty, which was a poor seller to begin with. People also think tick clatter clack when they think of diesel engines. New fuel management and noise suppression technology have greatly reduced the amount of noise created by diesel engines. Some so much that you almost wouldn't know the difference between it and a gas engine from inside the car. It is, but the amount of diesel oil that you get from a barrel of crude is far less than the amount of gasoline. Diesel for highway use is much more refined these days due to environmental laws, which adds to the cost of producing it. Add to that the MUCH greater non-highway demand for diesel fuel. Construction equipment, farm equipment, home and industrial generators, trains, most large ships/boats use diesel, the list goes on. Then you can start to see why diesel costs as much as it does. That doesn't mean the oil companies aren't digging into your pocket when you buy fuel, but there are other causes you need to blame as well.