Fairtax4me

I'm going along with the O2 sensor wiring theory. Did you solder the wires together? If so, what type of solder did you use, and are you sure you didn't get any cold joints?

What was outside temp during the burping procedure? I've seen lots of 4 cyl cars never need the fan with the hood open and relatively cool temps outside. The cooling system is efficient enough that it just doesn't warm up enough to need the fan.

I likes rubber. It lists for $4, so I can probably get it for $2, I say that's worth it. Thanks Dave. Ordered the kit from TIE. Bought and paid fo'!

Any check engine light? Probably not if it passed emissions (will fail if any current codes are set or if the light doesn't work), but it might be worth it to pull the codes anyway. You can search here and get directions for that. There might be a How to in the USRM section. Look like cold engine numbers. Retry with a warm engine and see what you get.

Junkyard or Subaru dealer. I would imagine a pigtail from a junkyard would be free. Probably only a few bucks at a dealer, but then there's the issue of can you even get it? Sometimes you have to order a whole harness to get certain plugs.

The OE gasket isn't paper? Or is it just better quality paper? I haven't ever had much trouble with paper gaskets. But I can tell the one on the car is paper, and it appears to be leaking. :-\

Yeah, Kinda hard to look in there if you don't have one. Try searching Google for a PDF copy that you can download.

Unscrew them for what? To have them re-finished? I don't see why not. Just drape some clean rags over the exposed heads while the covers are off to keep dirt out.

Probably fine. If other years with the same engine call for the same plug then I'd say there's probably nothing to worry about. If you were running some kind of forced induction then I would say change them to the proper spec right away.

Looks like GMB in the pic. http://www.clutchkitcenter.com/media/images/TSET/TS26172A/TS26172AWP1.jpg Which bolts? Water pump? I've read that elsewhere. I plan to seal it up with Indian head so I don't have to torque it to get a good seal.

Pull the fuse for the airbag module and disconnect the battery before starting. Not sure how you remove the airbag from the wheel on these, but when you get to removing the wheel, loosen the bolt or nut that holds it on but don't remove it. Then you can pull on the wheel and pop it of without a puller, when it pops loose the nut will catch it so it doesn't hit you in the face.

The owners manual will show you the location of all the fuse panels in the car. I don't know about the baja, but there is one under the dash on the drivers side on the older cars.

Obviously a popular choice for timing kits here amongst the experienced members. I'm looking at their kit for my 96 Legacy, sitting at 180k on the ticker, I believe a leaky front crank seal, and a water pump or gasket that leaks roughly a quart of coolant between oil changes. I'm wondering how their water pumps are? Is it worth getting the full kit with pump, or should I just get the belt kit and tensioners and go to Subaru for a pump? Already going there for cam and crank seals, oil pump O ring, and the little bypass hose on the side of the water pump.

I kinda wonder if the shop that did the timing belt might have damaged the tensioner while compressing it. Shredded belt? Probably timing issue. Pull the cover on the other side and compare the positions of the hash marks on the cam sprockets.

Have to find out where it's dripping from, but the drain plug washer is the easiest to change. If it's wet in that area that could be a possibility. A leaky input shaft seal will trail down to the same area around the drain plug. Everything else that might leak, besides the seem between the case halves, is towards the back of the transmission. Time to break out the purple power for a good degreasing.

I was thinking lifter tick, but loose idler pulley is a better problem to have fixed. You probably got it just in time.

A failing diff would be clearly evident. They don't go silently. The steering wheel will turn fine, but the car will keep trying to go straight, then you'll get a loud bang pop and click, the car will jump up and down and jerk around, then it will turn... for about 3 feet. Then you go through the motion all over again. Going the steering shaft U joint route with everybody else.

Camo door cards FTW!!! Should have done Mossy Oak.

You get that type of behavior when the trans is left in park. Center diff maybe, but I'm thinking something broke and has wedged itself in one of the planetary gear sets. Either way, Something asploded in there, exactly what is gonna take a teardown to find out. Tell your mechanic to take some pics and post them so we can see the carnage!

I'd probably just drill all the way through and use a long bolt and nut. Much easier than trying to retap IMO.

You know I think the first set I had of those didn't actually say Firestone on them anywhere. That was 7 or 8 years ago. Did you check the manufacture date on those before you put them on?

Does it make noise all the time when the engine is running, or only when in gear? X2 on confirming that you checked the right fluid. ATF doesn't really stink. It's not perfume, but it's nothing compared to gear oil. That stuff is gut wretching. There are detents in the shifter that it locks into to keep the shifter from moving from say drive to reverse if it gets bumped accidentally. Those might not always line up with the detents for the selector lever on the transmission. It could be that when you place the shifter in the Drive position, the transmission selector might be in the 3rd gear position. Usually that will lock the trans in 3rd gear, which will lessen the amount of torque transfer to the wheels, and the car will not roll on it's own without some extra engine speed. Have you tried to drive the car at all since this started? I'm curious to know if it might be in third or even second gear when the shifter is in drive.

That should teach you for thinking like that! Bet you won't do it again! Yeah those break pretty often. I see cars in the junkyard with them broken all the time. I made a preemptive strike on mine and removed them with an impact wrench at work. The bolts were pretty much shot. Sections of threads missing. The heads were almost round, I had to pound a 12 point socket on them. Cleaned out the holes and replaced them with new bolts that I throughly coated in copper grease. Doubt I'll be able to get the ball joints out without removing the knuckle though (luckily I don't have to replace them... yet)

You can tell that valve was substantially hotter than the other. It burned all the carbon right off and left it shiny clean.

The OP asked about a fuse in a previous thread. Not sure if he/she ever checked it though. It MIGHT still run, FSM says it might not though.