Fairtax4me

Thar she be. The hose in question. Runs out of the right side of the IAC, makes a quick 120° (ish) turn then another of about the same degree a few inches over, then goes to a nipple from the crossover pipe. After moving the pcv hose, vacuum hoses, and idle air hose out of the way to get a better view, it actually doesn't seem to be in quite as bad of shape as I originally thought. It does still flex some. Before I could only manage to get my finger on the end of it, which is probably right where the nipple is that comes out of the IAC. I'm not against making something out of brass fittings and cut to length heater/fuel hose, have done that many many times, but i'm not too thrilled about having 6 possible leak points in a very confined space. I would probably use a section of 5/16" id fuel line with flared ends bent to the approximate shape of the hose, with two short sections of rubber hose to connect the ends. But, if I can manage to get the right PN, I think the hose will only be 4 or 5 bucks, and save me the trouble of having to make something.

I'll get a picture of it on the engine and try to post it later. It's not in the best spot to try and replace on the side of the road in the middle of the night.

Well, that's at least one more thing that you can scratch off the list, even though it didn't fix it. I've been through this type of thing before and it is discouraging when trying and trying and only being met with failure. Thus is the world of automotive repair. Sometimes you get it right first shot, others it takes 8 months of no sleep before you find the answer. Not quite. A re-flash of the ECU will re-program the base parameters for all of the control systems. These are the starting parameters that the ECU defaults to when you clear the memory by disconnecting the battery. There are also many algorithms and programs running in the ECU that a basic scanner can not change. These can deal with anything from oil level monitoring (mostly in newer vehicles) to which point in the rpm range the ignition control system advances or retards timing to correct or prevent certain conditions, or how long the evap purge control solenoid stays open when you take your foot off the throttle. A change of mere milliseconds can make a difference in what the ECU "sees" through the various sensors on the engine. When you erase codes or clear the ECU by disconnecting the battery, you just erase the memory of what has happened and what the ECU has learned during the last few drive cycles. A re-flash erases and replaces the core settings and programming that allow it to run in the first place.

I'll keep you in mind. I had the dealer order another hose that seemed to be an older PN, but there were a few in the warehouse. If that one doesn't check out and I can't find any info on this then I'll have to go with used or a patch together of hoses and lines to get it routed where it needs to be. The problem is this hose makes about a 260° turn. Any regular straight section of hose is going to crimp/kink and block water flow.

MWE is a popular choice for quality new and rebuilt axles. Lots of people here recommend them.

Directional seals usually have an arrow somewhere that points in the primary direction of rotation. So yes, they should be placed for forward rotation of the axles. Are you going to change them with the trans in the car? Let me know if you have any difficulty getting the backlash and preload set. I still haven't made it around to doing this on mine. I'm finally getting to the timing belt and reseal that I talked about doing a year ago. So it might be another year before I tackle this.

Subaru's catalog doesn't list the correct part number for this. Ordered what was listed from the local dealer, part number on the package matches the listing, but the hose is the wrong one. The part in question is the coolant return hose from the Idle Speed Control Valve to the coolant crossover pipe under the manifold. It's a molded hose that makes 2 sharp turns. Pictured as number 4 here: http://static.opposedforces.com/epc_img/383494805002.png Here's the fun part. The catalog lists the same PN for the hose from the bypass pipe to the throttle body. This appears to be the correct hose for that application, pictured here: in my hand. It's on a 96 Legacy L 2.2. I need the little bent up hose that goes from the idle motor to the crossover pipe. It's hard as a rock, and I'd like to replace it before it splits open and pukes all my coolant out. I did some googling and stumbled across this though; A nifty site by Gates that lists all kinds of belts, hoses and other parts for tons of different cars. http://www.gates.com/part_locator/index.cfm?location_id=3002

I had the same idea for mine. I was thinking of doing under the door trim in roll-on bed liner.

HA, I doubt it. The WRX made a few of those "Top Ten Most Expensive to Insure" lists a few years ago.

One of these days I'll learn how to weld. [Jealous]

I'd check oil pressure before tearing anything down. You might need to tighten the backing plate on the oil pump, or overhaul the pressure bypass valve. Do that or try a quality synthetic blend oil first to clean out gummed up lifters or oil passages.

I switched to the Maxlife 5w 30 to clean up a gummy lifter. (I think it didn't like Castrol) About 2000 miles (rough guesstimate) after the first change the lifter started talking again. I let it go another 500 miles or so with intermittent convo from the perp and changed it. Now up to about 2000 miles on the second change and waiting to see if it shows up again. Using Purolator filters.

The Talon and Eclipse AWD turbo things were popular around here for a while. (Oh snapz dis jointz is awd yo'z!) Don't see them anywhere anymore... wonder why... http://lh6.ggpht.com/Evaristo.Jo/SMarDNC_YoI/AAAAAAAAALs/s5srq9OVpyw/s800/crankwalk.jpg I won't rag on those too much though. Subaru 2.5's like to throw rods about as bad as DSMs chew up thrust bearings. Not to get too far offtopic though, has anyone here done the Neon coil mod?

You get a sig when you make a $$ donation to the site, as far as I can tell at least. Subaru (OEM) head gaskets are the most reliable. Aftermarket gaskets are hit or miss. Might be fine for ten years, or they might go bad in 2 days. If you don't have all the timing belt idlers and tensioner, get those as well. Remove and reseal the oil pump while there is easy access. Replace the O ring that goes in the lower corner. Make sure the screws that hold the backing plate on the pump are tight. Remove them and reinstall with blue thread lock if unsure. They are somewhat soft, so an impact driver is a huge help here. There are lots of good threads about oil pump stuff the site here. Offsite, the Beergarage (<--- clickable) has good pics of Oil pump removal and cleaning. On Subaru's some things they care about and some things don't matter. Plug wires seem to be one of the things they care about. Lots of people have trouble with after market wires and recommend ONLY using OEM wires. 1stsubaruparts.com, subarupartsforyou.com, and subarugenuineparts.com, seem to be favorites for online ordering (discounts). NGK or Denso plugs are good. For the 2.5, absolutely get a bottle of Subaru cooling system conditioner and add it to the radiator when refiling.

Wouldn't the low range assembly work the same for either standard or reverse R&P?

Mitsubi************!!! Good one!

94 to 05 legacy use fluid filled transverse link bushings. They ooze grey grease-like fluid when they go bad. Wanna say that Imprezas used the same part too. Outbacks might have been slightly different (due to the raised ride height) but I've seen one in the junkyard oozing the same grey goo.

It should have a fuse holder on the passenger side strut tower that says "FWD" on it. Have her look to see if there is a fuse in that holder, if so, remove it, then she should at least be able to move the car (assuming the AWD still works). If it is able to move after removing that fuse (if it's in the holder) about 99% chance it's one of the front axles.

This is along the lines that I was thinking. I'm betting people who have done this mod, feel more/better power simply because there were problems with what they had previously (old age tends to do that). If new OE parts had been installed, might the same difference have been noted?

I've had my eye on this Rallitek kit for some time. http://www.rallitek.com/RalliTEK-Anti-Sway-Bar-Kit-Impreza-Non-Turbo-1993-2007/p-4382 $350 for front and rear bars, all new bushings, and rear heavy duty mounts and end links. Just haven't been able to confirm if the Impreza bars will fit the legacy yet. I can't find both of them in a junkyard at the same time to swap bars from one to the other. :-\

Yeah that IAC is pretty picky. You're "supposed" to use a scanner to read the duty cycle of the solenoid and adjust it to a certain point, but I think if you leave the engine running, get it warm, and try to slowly adjust it to where idle speed is somewhat correct, it should work out OK. You might try lightly gripping it with a pair of vice grips (emphasize lightly) Just so you have handle that you can easily move it with to make small accurate changes.

A broken CV will be easy to spot just by looking. No need to even have the car in gear, much less running. The CV boot will be all twisted around the axle, possibly ripped with grease thrown everywhere. Is this car manual or automatic?

That hood scoop pic from inside the car is badass! Looks nice. X2 on the gold wheels, nice color match-up! :cool:

Premonition?

The Rallitek kits are like $260 for everything. Perrin sells the heavy duty mounts for around $120 by themselves. And Whiteline or Perrin heavy duty end links are in the $140 range by themselves. There was one other place I found that sold heavy duty mounts that I can't recall off the top of my head.