Fairtax4me

I assume it's a shortcut and the fuse goes straight to the solenoid. I couldn't find any diagrams showing that circuit right off hand to verify that. I'd be just as interested as you all to find out where exactly that circuit goes.

Hold the cams by the flats on the shaft, don't try to rig something to hold the sprockets or use a wrench because the sprockets can and do break as Porcupine said. Removing/installing the cam seals can be made easier if you feel like taking off the bearing caps. Then you can slide the seal right on the cam and bolt the cap back in place over the seal. No need for a puller or installer, and much less chance of leaks around the outer bore of the seal.

Get the car up on stands or ramps start the engine and have a friend cram a rag in the tail pipe while you listen/feel around the pipes for the source of the leak. I thought my car had a leak back when I bought it. I did the rag test and didn't find anything definitive. It still has the same beehive buzz a year later.

So heres the plan. I got OB struts so I can fit 205 70 15 tires on the legacy. (snow trakkers = Stuck?! What's that mean? ) But I want just a hair more than the 1" from the struts. I'm trying to come up with a simple spacer for the top of the strut to get another 1" or so of lift. But I'm not sure what to use. I've looked around for something ready-made and the best I can come up with for lifts are 2, 3, and 4 inch kits that look nice but I don't want it quite that tall... yet. Nothing in the way of a 1 - 1.5" like I'm looking for. Anybody have any ideas? Or know of a place that makes something that might be what I need?

The fact that the engine runs at all with the brake booster hose disconnected surprises me. Idle speed will tend to increase a bit and smooth out with a small leak. But with a large leak it usually leans out the mixture so much that it stalls the engine.

I dunno, take a picture?

Just occurred to me that's a ham callsign.

The mount consists of the top hat (the part that has the 3 studs sticking up) molded to a rubber bushing with a hole in the middle for the strut shaft to go through, and for the front struts a bearing gets thrown in between all that so they can swivel. There might be a cover in the center of the top hat (if it hasn't been lost) You remove that to see the nut that holds the strut shaft in the mount. (Don't try to remove that nut without a spring compressor or you'll get a face full of spring.)

There is plenty of info about the FWD fuse here. The simple answer is don't leave that fuse in. That fuse turns on a solenoid in the transmission which controls line pressure to the AWD clutch packs in the center transfer unit. Leaving the fuse in place delivers a full 12V to the solenoid (which is normally on getting 5 -7V ) which can cause the solenoid to burn out and cause the AWD clutches to permanently engage. The AWD clutches are normally only partially engaged anyway. They engage fully when AWD is needed as detected by the traction control system.

Actron does have a scanner that will read live data but it is pretty pricey. You can get a much better scanner from Innova for less money on amazon, as you have already found. The main advantage to the 3160 is that it reads ABS codes, but that function only works with Big 3 automobiles. The 3130 should do everything you need, and is upgradeable, so if by chance sometime in the future Innova makes an update for Subaru ABS codes you can buy a patch and load it into the scanner and make it that much more useful.

Unless they're falling apart just reuse them. Check the front mounts for play in the bearing by spinning/twisting rocking the top hat and if none is found slap 'em on the new struts and go. If the boots are cracked buy some generic shock boots from the auto parts store and zip tie them in place. Some even come in different colors!

You sure it's black and not just covered in dirt/grease? Mine was black 'til I hit it with some brakleen. I guess the newer cars are a bit more difficult. I just reach between the firewall and the intake tube and then under the main engine wire harness and it's pretty much a straight shot to the dipstick. To fill I cram a long transmission funnel between the AC line and intake tube, then around the wire harness and right into the fill tube and it fits like a glove.

Nice! That makes a huge difference.

You didn't read well enough.

Cha Ching! Got 'em! :banana: When I got there a guy was taking the heads off and he had a cordless impact wrench. Had all 4 off in less than ten minutes. Freakin' awesome!

Did you run out of gas? JK. Timing belt sounds plausible. Maybe fuel pump. Checked fuses?

Yeah I found that somewhere hidden in the user manual I think. I was kinda bummed but honestly I don't know when I'd ever need it, so why the hell I wanted it in the first place???...

96 outback with manual trans had EJ22 also AFAIK. Maybe 97 as well? Just my luck I checked CL for the first time in about a month, somebody posted a 98 outback with apparently dead engine for $300. But it was listed early last month so I'm sure it's gone by now.

Funny you mention the Home depot box. We don't have a Home Depot close by but I stopped in one last time I was in Richmond. The Husky boxes are CHEAP. I could watch it twist if I pushed on the top corner with my hand. That's not gonna cut it for me. Agreed on the air ratchets. Used a few and haven't ever been too impressed by them. You can crack some things loose with them if you have room to swing the tool, but you can do that with a regular ratchet just as easy, and not have the damn air hose in the way. Plus they're loud, even the "quiet" ones, and they're slow. Faster than doing it by hand sure, but if I can fit an extension and a socket into there I'll just use an impact wrench on it. Which brings me to these... http://www.mactools.com/product/tabid/120/p-324708-38-air-impact-ratchet.aspx An impact ratchet might be right up my alley. Anybody used one?

I was looking at a 3160 last year (the one that does ABS codes). Very nice scanners, and easy to use. Decided not to get it because the ABS part only worked for the Big 3.

Classic signature material!

High compression (when under boost) makes it harder for spark to jump the gap in the plug. Results in misfires, and increases the chance of detonation (which is VERY bad when combined with forced induction). Two ways to get around that, narrow the gap, or get a high energy ignition system. Guess which is easier and cheaper (and more reliable) to do? You definitely need some software that can monitor real-time data. This sounds like a MAF sensor issue (if it has one) but it could be anything.

Vultures I tell ya, vultures. So it looks like the rear cross member is different (different part number at least) on the OB, and there are some spacers between the cross members and frame. The transmission cross member appears to be different as well, and so it the pitch mount. Longer to account for lower engine position? Seems like other people who have done this swap haven't bothered to grab much or any of this and it all fit together fine though. I have a line on some 205/70 15 snow tires, wheels might be a trick to get ahold of (probably be watching CL for those) but I think I can pull this off. I'm excited about lifting the legacy now. Really gonna have to kick myself in the rump roast if those struts are gone!

Not after 96. 96 was the last year of the non interference stuff.

You know a pickle fork is supposed to be used as a wedge right? You hammer on th back of the handle to force it between the control arm and knuckle which prys the stud out of the control arm.