Fairtax4me

Holy thread resurrection Batman! Agreed, You'll get a much better response by starting a new thread.

That's why it has the speed limiter. Most 14" tires are "S" speed rated which is 112 mph. The risk of a blowout multiplies something like 5 times for every 5 mph over the maximum rating. So at 122 mph you are ~25 times more likely to blow out a tire than at the tires "safe" rated maximum speed of 112 mph.

AFAIK the struts should bolt right on, but you want to get an alignment done afterwards. The bumper should fit but you might want to take the brackets as well just to be sure. I think you also need the grille for the outback. Seems to me it's a bit larger than the legacy grille.

I'm going to start one more thread ever on this board and every time I need new info I'm gonna drag it up and edit the title so all the info I ever get will be in one place.

If they spin "free" it's because all the grease has flung out of them. No lubrication = heat = wear and/or seizure. 170k and original idlers on an interference design engine is asking for a bent valve sandwich.

The lower the better but these seem to do fine running ~3k rpm. I prefer to keep mine in the 2000 - 2500 rpm range if I'm driving for long periods of time.

The bushings you need are cheap from the dealer. Lots of info here about those. Wheel bearing needs to be pressed in/out by a shop. One that knows Subarus. The hubs will deform if the press is set up incorrectly.

Sorry to hear how absolutely wonderful your trip has turned out. Might try telling the local news about it? Nothing better than some bad press to get the mayor involved in getting some lazy police captain off his/her rump roast. It's absurd that nobody can tell you what's going on.

Nice. Learn a new trick every day on this site. Good work!

First thing I'd try is just new plugs and wires. At 105k if that hasn't been done recently it's time to. Use silicone grease (di-electric) on both ends of the plug wires for water/corrosion resistance. If it has been done did you use Subaru wires? Next guess would be a failing coil pack or ignitor. Try starting the car at night and take a peek under the hood for blue flashes around the coil pack and plug wires.

Does the Check Engine light come on?

Subaru keys aren't anything special AFAIK. It's not a Fob key like BMW or Mercedes that has a transponder for push button start. I know our Subaru dealer cuts keys in-house. Though whether they can do that for an 09, I don't know. $160 sounds like they're trying to get you.

I'm not sure that would work but I suppose you can try it. Here's a link to the FSM for 92. Should be close enough I think. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/1992_FSM_(Engine_&_Electrical)/ I assume you're getting CEL with a code for the Purge control valve?

No, I have the memo right here... Yes the TPS can cause the engine to idle higher than normal. The ECM thinks the throttle is open and changes fuel delivery and spark advance to accommodate. It can red-line itself with the throttle plate closed in some cases if the TPS fails.

A 93 Legacy would have come with an EJ22. I would be more interested to know why the engine was rebuilt at 50k miles.

Same place as the jack points for changing a spare tire. Don't ever lift a car by suspension components. Suspension parts move, which means they can slip.

Junkyard. Or jack one off the next Subaru you see with the windows open. Jk, don't do that. That would be a wongleflute move.

I call Brake pads. There's not much else in that area that will make a tinny metallic sound like that.

Canobd2.com has a good DTC library with manufacturer specific codes.

Interesting. Does it say how to identify which ECMs are affected by this?

What did you touch it with? The ignitor? If so that very well may have killed it.

Which marks were used to determine that it was out of time to begin with?

I think you'll get chastised for that around here, but for your sake I hope they work out. As for knock sensor, grab the one off your old engine and use it. It was still good right?

You just have to turn it faster so the compression doesn't have enough time to leak out! Glad you found the root cause. Even if you have a service manual take a look at some of the threads around here with info for timing these beasts, there are plenty. Lots of people seem to mess that up so don't take it too hard. The fact you got any compression means the valves are probably OK, just need to get them in the right place at the right time. Good luck.

Can we ask why this idea came about in the first place? Something wrong with your current cat?