Fairtax4me

Because the ECU is the power source. The switch opens/closes the ground circuit. Check the switch for resistance across connector T2 while moving the shifter in and out of gear. It should be the brown connector on the passenger side of the bell housing on top. There will be another gray connector just like it right next to it. Also check the other half of that connector (B25 in the diagram) for continuity to engine ground on pin 2.

It's still a pita but in my experience it is usually less trouble. You can use a regular floor jack to lower the transmission if you're not comfortable with trying to pick it up. I usually try to get the car I'm working on up at least 18-20" off the ground (big jack stands) on all four corners. Of course it always helps to have a helper.

The section in the FSM for the P1101 is pretty short. Check the switch for proper operation with a VOM. Check the harness from the ECU to the switch. And check the voltage coming from the ECU. Should be 4.5 - 5V.

The 95 is a phase 1 and the 99 is a phase 2. Biggest difference besides a few sensors here and there is the phase 2 motor is an interference engine (timing belt breaks, valves get bent). The phase 1 is not (timing belt breaks, put new one on, re-time and drive away) It's entirely possible to use the 95 engine in the 99, but it's not a quite a "Plug and play" type swap.

I'd try for about $500 if it runs and drives good. But no more. I'd like to have that red one with a big grille guard.

Bleed the air out of the cooling system a few times. Did you happen to replace the thermostat when you put the water pump back together? From what I've read these cars really don't like aftermarket thermostats. If you do a leak down tester that would give you a more accurate picture if there is a HG leak. That would confirm a bad HG if the air escapes through the HG into the cooling system, it would work it's way out through the radiator. Look for bubbles. Of course doing a block test will tell you the same thing.

Welcome to the wonderful world of modification. Sometimes no matter how hard you try, you just can't make it right without a little Redneck Rigging.

I'd check fuses first. Then vacuum hoses. Also can hurt to check for power at the cruise module. This is when it's useful to have a service manual for the wiring diagrams. The light is probably just that, the light. No reason to fix that if it still works unless you just want the light to work.

If it's made by Stant then it should be fine. At least try going to Napa or somewhere like that to get a decent one. Also make sure the rim on the radiator where the cap seals is clean and smooth. Bubbles can be caused by boiling coolant (expansion of water vapor). Coolant will boil at a lower temp if the pressure in the cooling system isn't where it needs to be. If the cap fails to fix it, do a block test.

"Excessive" pressure is usually indicative of a compression leak into the cooling system. But it's hard to declare it "excessive" without getting an accurate actual pressure reading. Did you have the hoses replaced when they did the HGs? If not then it's certainly time for some new rubber. Old hoses will tend to crack at the ends and it isn't visible until they're removed.

You could do just the disc but the main problem is likely the flywheel and pressure plate are glazed. The flywheel you'll want to have milled. The pressure plate I don't know if they can machine. You can try cleaning it up, but the heat from sipping has probably weakened it. The TOB might be cooked too. I'd do the whole thing. That really sucks to hear. Might want to invest in an automatic car for lending out to friends.

Good thinkin. Apparently some had OBD1 and some had 2. That may complicate things a little but it's possible to work around it. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=30955

Yeah that's why I said I'd use thread lock. I've read the stories. 80 seems a little on the low side. Most other cars I've worked on 65 - 90 is the recommended spec, so it SHOULD be ok, but there is plenty of evidence to say otherwise.

Did you try a new radiator cap? That is a beautiful car btw.

I have seen them leak like that, but they usually also leak into the combustion chamber or coolant passages.

I'm sure you can do it, but it's probably easier to remove the transmission if you're worried about difficulty. The problem with trying to slide the engine forward enough to get the PP and disc out, is that you'd be 3/4 of the way towards getting the engine out by the time you had enough room to get your hands in the bell housing to work. If you pull the transmission out. Knock the roll pins out of the axles, slide them off the stubs and set aside. Unbolt the exhaust from the heads and one hanger on the trans, then just pop loose the rubber hangers on the rest of the system and it drops on the ground and can be slid out of the way. Unhook the O2 sensors before doing that. Find a strap and pull the top of the engine forward a bit, unbolt the dog bone mount. Unbolt the starter and just slide it out of the way. Detach hill holder and clutch cables from the release lever. Unplug the 3 connectors on the bell housing for the Reverse switch, neutral switch, and the wire harness for the rear O2 sensor. Remove the center exhaust heat shields. Drain the trans fluid. Unbolt the drive shaft carrier bearing and lower the drive shaft onto the ground. Put a bag over the stub to keep dirt off of it. Unbolt the shift linkage. Remove the bolts from the bell housing. I think it's 2 bolts up top and 2 nuts on the bottom. One of those bolts holds the starter so it should already be taken care of. Remove the transmission mount bracket bolts. The back of the trans will start to hang at this point. Now you get to be strong man. Put a board on your chest, crawl under the car and lift/work the trans towards the back of the car and slide it right down onto the board. It only weighs about 125lbs. Should be easy with two arms. It helps to have someone up top with a prybar or big screwdriver working around the bell housing to get it separated. Compare that to the engine where you have to disconnect the hoses, drain the coolant, undo countless vacuum hoses so they don't get broken, detach the hill holder cable, throttle cable, cruise cable, find a way to lift it (300lbs+) up off of the engine mounts so you can slide it forward. Then you still have to stabilize it while you try to put the new clutch in. You might even have to disconnect the power steering hoses for more room. Oh I didn't mention disconnect the battery before doing any of this. I like to remove it completely just for good measure. (ever put a wrench down in just the WRONG place? That light show was beautiful! )

Clean it out of there and see if it comes back.

Most people go the other way, 2.5 to a 2.2, but it should work. I'm not familiar with swap details but doing some searching here should yield results about what you're looking for. Basically do the opposite of what all the 2.2 swap threads say to do.

The FSM for the 96 says the crank pulley bolt should be 80 ft lbs. I think I'd put blue thread lock on that one for good measure.

I check fluid levels weekly on all of my vehicles whether they have known leaks or not. Valve covers on these cars will leak pretty much all the time. More so when the engine is running because the oil gets thin with heat and because there is oil constantly flowing up into the rocker covers and flowing across the gaskets on its way draining back to the oil pan.

Junkyard I frequent sells 6 cylinder engines minus accessories for $175 plus core. Much better than $7,000

A common leak spot that can be mistaken for a leaky valve cover gasket is the rear cam seal on the passenger side cylinder head. It's just an O-ring under a cover with 2 bolts holding it on. Difficult to see from above but from below its a pretty simple check. Clearly visible in this pic: http://beergarage.com/imgs/Suby/Clutch/01.jpg

No additive will help at this point if it is the HGs. Ask them if they have a set of head gaskets instead. I'd say go pick up a block test kit from Napa and check the coolant for exhaust gases.

If the fluid is reddish pink that may be why it's worn out. Depending on your experience and access to tools, replacing the main shaft roller bearing and the synchros on 3 and 4 is a fairly straight forward job. Id say, crack the trans open and do a little poking around. Any bearings that are worn should be pretty apparent, especially the large roller bearings. You can order a lot of the parts through online sources and get them tons cheaper than a local dealer, unless your local dealer is nice enough to match online pricing (rare, but some do). And if it turns out there is too much wear or you don't feel like it's worth it to repair the transmission a junkyard unit shouldn't cost much more than $150 - $200 at a Upullit.

There's a black rubber/plastic access cover on the top right side of the block. You reach in there with a wrench to crack the bolts loose. You can hold the crank still with a breaker bar on the crankshaft pulley bolt. The seal is right on the front of the transmission. Here's a pic to help you find it. http://static.opposedforces.com/epc_img/366494915602.png Number 10 is the seal.