john40iowa

Mine on the Forester went out. Some suggested jweld or similar but the truth is it looked like something from the Titanic in terms of rust. Was going to do it myself but no where to work on nor able to get if off the ground. My shop charged around $450.00 and the OEM parts (two piece set up with evap valve) alone were about $200.00.I thought it was reasonable.

You are right, but sometimes it just easier to go with the flow in terms of the shop and the way they want to go with it.

The shop that did the job 60k ago had a "Rebuild the car,"mentality. They probably could have been resufaced at that point. This job last week I have no doubt did need to be done becuase this shop I have used for 20 years and they try talk me out of added work; they told me they were too thin to be safely resurfaced.

I really love mine on the Forester! It can sub zero here in Iowa. The car starts faster without the struggle sounds, it runs smoother initially and the heater is much faster to warm up.

thanks, yes they were completely after market. The shop has always tightened the wheels. 60k beats the heck out of some cars

My back brake rotors were replaced last week after 60k on aftermarket. I was somewhat surprised because the front ones have over a hundred K on them. There was no obvious scratching and the shop didn't say anything about the pads too worn. Is this typical life for city driving? I had the front axles replaced even at the shops trying to talk me out of it since the boots were fine. Boy what a difference; if you feel a lot of shake on slow acceleration or clunkiness going through the geers as I did, this change made my old'99 feel like a new car! John

Thank you I might try this extra filter next to the throttle body. I looked up (#AA020) and nothing at any of the online retailers I use. Is this filter hard to find?

1999 2.5 SOHC non tubo yea the rectangular one next to throttle body would be what apparently is missing or never installed. I wondered if maybe it would help with capturing some of the oil film that eventually goes through the PCV. Or maybe it would make no difference?

I was cleaning the air intake box next to the unit (not the first air filter box near the MAF) and it looks to be a place for a filter; however, if there was one it is gone. Do I need one and if so what is the part number? Thanks

You might be right. This seemed somewhat glaring to me in terms of a change that I wasn't looking for. I wonder if a sensor was washed and is a factor here.

Today I flushed and changed the coolant. I do it every year and half religiously; what I can't figure is how much smoother the car runs after today! It didn't run bad before, just felt like the old car with 200k on it that it is. Kinda felt newish as I took it for spin to circulate and make sure all bubbles were out. Maybe every year would be even better? Anyone else ever have this experience?

How often do these needed to be cleaned and what works with this greasy, sticky muck? I change the PCV every year at least if not sooner and oil literally drips from the hoses when I remove them. The car runs perfectly fine. So grateful I am to this group!

so maybe just tighten until it stops, then a hair further with the ratchet?

I am sure it has been covered here numerous times; search engine didn't readily find it for me. I am getting ready to redo the seal on valve covers and I can't really remember the maxim (15ft.lbs?) and I tend over tighten as it is. 2000 2.5 SOHC Thanks!

Makes good sense. What are they referred to in Subaru speak. I usually order on -line and don't really need the entire seal kit. Thanks

Good idea I will order them Monday.

Today am changing the plugs on the 2.5 Sohc and one of the four wires came out oily, the others pristine. It seems like about three years ago I put in all new seals- everything, it came as kit for the outer head. Do the donut seals only last three years? Is this something that can wait or should I should do another seal exchange soon? Thanks for any pointers!

And, I forgot to ask. If I remove the seat will it reveal this connection point? Also can the wheel be left on even though it will be some wiggle work on my part? Lastly I will drive most of the gas out and be very careful- removing the battery altogether. Anything else; would rather not contend with draining the last gallon of fuel.

Well it seems the rust to the fuel filler pipe on my Forester was substantially worse than I thought. Removing the screws that hold it to the quarter was not issue because they pretty much rusted through. I searched through the topic and I don't see my specific question. At the bottom of the filler tube it connects to a rubber hose with a clamp which joins it to the fuel tank. After I loosen that clamp how hard it is to remove the rubber from the metal filler pipe? My fear is getting half way through and then getting stuck with this at the bottom. Removing the gas tank is was beyond me so I hopeful that this can be done in some fashion. Thanks so much for any input!

Well I did not take it apart, but I got under the car and the canister looks perfectly fine as does the rubber hoses; the bottom of the fuel filler tube looks good and solid, but some rust is visible as you look toward the top, and a slight bit of rust was present and wiped out from the inside lip of the entry point fuel pipe. The screws that hold the top end are not rusted but clearly they're not going anywhere and this job seems beyond (I don't want to drill with gas fumes) me. My next question is would a Bodo fiberglass wrap work for a year or two and it be safe with fuel present? I could forgo the usual full tank if that prolong it's life and buy me some time.

I have a question regarding our '99 Forester. Recently the check engine light stayed on. It was unbelievably hot here; and, I disconnected the battery which resulted in the light staying off for a week or two. Of course it came back on and I went to Advance who plugged in and found it was the "Evap control system" which could be one of a few things according to the list. Since it is so old I went ahead and got a gas cap, but essentially that is probably wishful thinking. A wealth of info is found here under search, but my real need is when the light comes back on where would you all start? I checked the connections under the hood and the solenoid is tightly connected and it's rubber hoses look fine. I smell no gas under the back wheel well. I kinda hate to buy a power wrench to remove the wheel and take off the filler tube cover, but if others here think it wise than that will be next. Does the charcoal box located under the rear tail gate ever actually go bad? Thanks as always for any pointers.

It has been Awhile since I took the cover off of the box to look behind it. If I recall correctly it looked to me like this vent exchange on my car was on one molded piece, and no filter placement installed. On the other hand maybe I missed it and should look again. I don't mind modifying it- That is taking the tools and cutting a space for a filter; however, I don't ruin anything. If anyone has any pictures that would help me by light years. John

Can I ask where you installed it? My '99 Forester doesn't seem to have any place for one.

If you go the Radio shack route, tred every lightly. I tried this myself and the lookalike (but not the same) replacement I was given fried a relay- hidden in the dash, which turned out to be a real Pita of job to replace and additional $90.00 just for the relay. John

Good Idea; make sure it is new blade. I used to clean glass professionally and dull blades can & do scratch the glass. I suspect it might help to put on some kind of solvent before using the blade.