987687

Cool! thanks for the help. I didn't realize it was the same thermostat, so probably more or less the same procedure to replace. Thanks for the heads up on the gasket, the dealer nearest me is somewhat pathetic, so I doubt they have it in stock. I'll give you all an update when I get the new bits installed and see how it works!

I have an ea81 in my GL. When I start driving it will warm up until the temp gauge goes into the middle, right where you'd expect it. And the heat is nice and warm. Then after about a minute it will drop down to about 1/3 on the temp gauge and stay there. (sometimes it won't even go up to half, just stop at 1/3). If I let it sit and idle it will warm up to the middle, then the fan will come on. To me, this sounds like the thermostat is working until it heats up (sometime), but once warm it never closes again. Is this thinking correct?

Since you were going around a corner the inner rear wheel had considerably less force on it than the rest, and coming off the back side of the bump may have even let the wheel leave the ground for a second, or have very little traction. ABS was simply kicking in to keep that wheel from locking. Given the circumstances, I doubt there's anything wrong with your ABS.

It's a 4WD. thanks for the responses. I have never dealt with wheel bearings before, which is why I was wondering if there was a guide on how to do it. What tools are needed, etc. Removing the control arm is a good idea, and I'll consider that.

Beautiful car!

I have recently acquired a '89 GL (from bratman, actually) Wonderful car But it needs rear wheel bearings replaced. I searched, but couldn't find a guide. Is there a pictorial guide anywhere showing how to replace the rear wheel bearings with torques, etc? I like being able to see what I'm going to have to do before doing it. Thanks

oh nice! I should get a new fuel filter. Mine has probably been replaced ... never...

I wish I took pics of when my water pump seized (at 92k!!). It was pretty gnarly looking. The belt was in about a thousand little shreds, and all but 1 of the idlers sounded like 30 year old skate board wheels.

I was wondering why the filter I just bought was so cheap.

They'll all work. (as long as none of them are defective, that is)

I believe the MAF from any EJ engine before about 2000 will work. I'm not sure exactly when it changed, but if it bolts up and the harness matches, it will work. My '96 legacy has a MAF from a gen1 subaru. I think 1991 or something. Got it from a U pull yard.

huh ... I wonder if there is a list somewhere that has this info

Don't all the 2.5s have EGR? I thought it was just the 2.2s that didn't have EGR on the manual versions.

Are you 100% sure the ECU is always powered? what did you do?

I mentioned this before. There is one 12v pin in the OBD2 connector. It would be dead easy to just have this cut off with the ignition. http://pinoutsguide.com/CarElectronics/subaru_obd2_diagnostic_pinout.shtml I'm still not 100% sure that would fool their scanner though, because the OBD2 port is ALWAYS powered. Even when the ignition is off. So it may be better to cut pin 6 when the ignition is off.

I have absolutely no idea...

If it does register that the computer didn't go off you'd have to add a solenoid that turns off the power to the ODB2 port when the key is off.

Turning off the key might kill ignition anyway with the ECU powered, I'm not sure if the ignition gets its power from a solenoid that's controlled by the ignition switch. If I have time I may play with keeping the ECU powered, but my state doesn't do emissions, and my car is exempt anyway. so...

Confirmed. Set out this morning. Not ready for emissions. After about 50 mins of driving, before I stopped I checked again. Emissions ready. So I found a hill. Stalled, did a rolling start. And the ECU was still ready.

Read what I said before. Keep the ECU powered ALWAYS to keep the monitors set. When the key is turned off it would have to kill ignition or something so the engine stopped.

I have that combination! And a very hilly driveway to test it out in. This weekend I have a 45 minute drive. That should be plenty to have everything set.

Some do, my scangauge2 does.

I don't see why not. It would basically be like having the car in run always. So some output like ignition would have to be terminated so that the engine stopped when the key is turned off. Thing you'd need to find out is, does the data get lost when the engine stops while still in run? Next time I notice the monitors are all set I can just stall the engine and see if the stay that way. If so, wiring would be simple to give the ECU power to keep the data. Just have a switch for inspection time. I work with electronics and computers, so I find it way easier to deal with the electrical side of things rather than the mechanical side when it comes to things like this.

In that case I'd just wire up a switch to always give the ECU power. Even after the car is turned off... that way the emissions stuff wouldn't be cleared. But I'm just lazy like that. I'd find that easier than drilling and tapping.

Yea, mine reset as soon as I turn off the car. Can't they just leave it running when they check the computer ...? The '96s are messed up though... in my state (Maine) they just don't check the '96 computer. As long as the CEL is off, it's good to go.