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What do you mean the scangauge connection to the sensor? I don't see how it could be causing an issue because it's just reading out of the obd2 port. Seeing as only 2 wires come out of the sensor into the harness, and the speedo works right I can't see why the sensor would be the issue. But assuming it is, is there any way to test the sensor besides throwing a different one in there? It doesn't look very fun to get out. It looks like it has the same plastic nut thing the EA transmissions use. Those aren't fun...

I make such circuits every now and again for electrical projects I work on. I just make my own. A 555 timer and the right supporting circuitry can get the job done. Just run it off a constant 12v. But if I was only using it to "push" the power button for a few seconds I'd just get a small cap and transistor. It would only take a very small cap to have a transistor connect a circuit for a few seconds. You aren't powering anything, just connecting something, so it's pretty easy. I had a computer system in my car for a little while, and this is how I had it set up. I had constant 12v going to the system always. I made my own 12v power supply for it (pretty easy if you can build electronics). I had it hibernate when the car was shut off, and this is how I made it all tick. When the car turned on I had it give the computer "power button" and the computer PSU (more on that later) a pulse to wake up the computer. It would then come out of hibernate. I used a 555 timer for that. Putting the computer back into hibernate was the more difficult part. I used the serial port and a custom input board to tell the computer to go into hibernate. Basically when the key was off it would open a relay and tell the computer to go into hibernate asap. Then it would just turn itself off. Now, when I said more on that later. I also had a relay to give the computer constant 12v, powered by the LED that indicates power to the computer. So when it got the ON pulse the LED would come on and close the relay. Then the ON pulse would go off, but the system would have power. When it shut off the LED would go off removing power to the system to prevent it sucking the battery dry. I took the system out because someone gave me some broken iPods. Pretty much all I used the system for was music and I got one of the mp3 players working. So due to simplicity I ripped the system out.

It has a censor on the transmission where older transmissions have a cable. And the censor has 2 wires coming off it going into the wiring harness. So that supplies the speedo and the ECU. I don't get why one would work and why the other wouldn't. Seems like an ECU thing to me, maybe.

I'm having a strange issue with the speed censor on my 1996 Legacy L. 5speed. 114k miles, but it's been doing it for a good long time. Here's the facts. The speedo on the dash always reads correctly. I have a scangauge2 installed and one of the options set to the speed the ECU sees. And it doesn't always match the speedo gauge. It's often a good deal less, or sometimes just goes to zero in which case after a few miles/shifts I'll get a P0500. USUALLY turning the car off and on again will make it act normally, but not always. And just recently it's developed another related issue. Sometimes when I push in the clutch or shift to neutral the engine will completely stall. And it ONLY happens when the ECU is getting zero for a speed signal (but the gauge is still working perfectly...). But it doesn't always happen, just every now and again. And it isn't clutch drag or anything like that because it's adjusted correctly and happens both when moving and stopped. And one more interesting thing. Last year it had a weird issue that it's now stopped. Which I don't get... But it was this. When the transmission had warmed up after a few miles of driving the speed would jump around (both on the scangauge and on the dash) when I drove under 20mph, over 20 it was fine. It would only do this when warm though, and if it was the middle of winter it would take about 20 miles to actually warm up enough to act up. I don't know if that's correlated at all. But maybe. One other thing is that the gauge cluster does NOT have a speedometer cable going into it, only wiring harness plugs.

I know it sounds stupid ... but did you put the plug wires back on the right place? I put them back on the cap wrong once and after an hour of trying to figure out why it wasn't running right felt really stupid ...

If you search you'll find how to read codes. About it running crappy, try the easy things first. Replace the ignition stuff. Disty cap, rotor, wires and plugs. Good chance they're all in pretty bad condition, and a pretty cheap upgrade. It made an incredible difference on my car just replacing cap and rotor! If that doesn't clear it up, timing could be off, but try the easy stuff first.

Swapped autocraptastic seatbelts for normal ones!

I should have said spfi too. I don't really know anything about the carb setup.

Replaced all the brake pads and flushed the brake fluid on my sister's '99 obw.

The ea82 uses screws, the ea81 uses clips. You can't just put screws in that one, you'll never get the timing right. Just have them order the correct cap. Most auto part stores can have it the next day.

Looks like that manifold is a lot tighter to the engine. Probably to allow the hood to close and not hit the carb.

Sounds like a piston or valvetrain issue. Rod bearing wouldn't cause that anyway.

You should lift it!

Nice mileage!! And about ethanol. Where I live in Maine you can only get 10% ethanol Because of it I've had to re-adjust carbs on some small engines to make them run correctly, replace fuel hoses on the boats I work on, etc. The switch was awful. It's very easy! Check in the USRM, there's a great guide.

The fronts apparently aren't as hard as the rears. Which are a big PITA. Look under the USRM for my rear replacement guide if you want to see some really nasty looking old bearings

We can't even get 95 at most US pumps. 87 is standard, and most states only go up to 93. I live in a state you can only get 91...

In the case of the TOB shutting up when there's pressure on it, do this. Depress the clutch pedal enough that there's pressure on the TOB, but you still haven't disengaged the transmission. Using nipper's logic, this should put pressure on the TOB causing it to be quiet, but also keep the transmission spinning to hear if the transmission is making noise.

Did you just drive that out of the show room? wow!

Hmm, interesting. I could swear it wasn't. But then I may have filled/checked it on an un-level surface :-\ I'll make sure I'm on a level surface tomorrow and check back in . Thanks for all the help guys

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It's full of bubbles frothy. I know what frothy watery oil looks like, and it definitely isn't that. And the oil is green, because that's the colour of the oil I use, but the colour hasn't changed any from the colour the oil was when it went in. It doesn't look like it's been burned or anything. Right now I'm hesitant to do much to it as I'm 500 miles away from home helping someone move back home. So next weekend I'm going to be driving 500 miles with my car loaded full to the brim. Which I hope doesn't hurt it any worse :/

It has 112,000 miles on it, and I did a flush at 88k miles. I bought it at 87k miles, and it shifted very well, and then shifted better after the flush. The transmission does leak a little bit, but not much. In the summer when the oil is thinner I have to add about 1/2 quart a month. For oil I just use generic SAE heavy gear oil. I think 75w90, it's whatever the manual says to use.

So the 5 speed in my legacy used to shift wonderfully and fast without any grinds ever. It was a very nice transmission. Now though ... It's been acting weird. I haven't done anything different to it. Sometimes it will grind going into 4th gear up-shifting, sometimes not. It's random. But today after a long highway drive on a very hot day it started shifting very slowly. It just won't go between the gears easily and requires me to force the shifter a little bit, whereas it used to just slide nicely into gear. If I try to make it shift as fast as it should, it grinds a bit and clunks really hard into gear. I checked the clutch, it isn't dragging, fully disengaging. I can tell because 1. when shifting it very slowly into reverse I don't get any clicking of the gears like you would if the clutch was dragging, and I adjusted the clutch cable way in just to make sure. So I went to check the oil level. AND.... It's all frothy on the dip stick!! What could that possibly mean? I tried searching all over the net and couldn't find much

Thanks for all the input guys! And I just realized this was moved to the USRM area! Cool!! Thanks to whomever made that happen

The wheels are not overly common around here, no. I'd like to get some vids an action shots, but I'm alway out alone. Now I'm away from home, but I'll be home in two weeks time. Hopefully some more pics then!