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My d/r clunks a bit when I engage/disengage 4wd. It's pretty normal for any 4wd tranny to clunk when going in and out of 4wd. But NEVER USE 4WD ON DRY PAVEMENT!!!! that's the first rule of 4wd in any vehicle!! There's no reason to anyway. And you yours is 4wd even on the s/r. The orange button clearly says "4wd" on it and you get the 4wd light on the dash.

Car look awesome!! Good find. And yes, those are for testing the ECU for trouble codes. There's a lot of info on the board on how to use them.

It doesn't always happen to me though. Maybe 1 in 10 times when it's acting up, which is intermittent. I guess you already have a thread for the misfires, but replacing the injectors is not what I'd do first... Plugs and wires, timing off, coil may be going since it's on 3 cylinders, etc. Anyway, back to my issue.

If you have misfires on 3 of 4 cylinders, you've just found your stalling issue. Fix the misfires and you'll be fine. And I have not fixed it yet. Although I'm fairly certain it's the cluster causing the issue. I have been away for the last 2 weeks on 3 different road trips, 5 different states, and 2 countries... But sometimes I'm gonna take out the cluster and clean the contacts on all the plugs if they're oxidized. I'm thinking maybe it's a connection issue.

They're surprisingly simple to take apart. Just be careful and you won't break it.

You'd have to add material somehow to make it work.

I'm not positive on suspension. But engine, diff, and tranny should be the same.

If by running gear you mean drivetrain, then yes. It's the same.

The AT should be way overfull when the engine is off. The torque converter drains when the engine is off, but when the engine is running it fills back up again. This is why you should always check the tranny fluid when the engine is running. You'll only get a correct reading with the engine running and the transmission warmed up.

so I need ANOTHER cluster.... wonderful. at least they're cheap and easy to change the mileage

If you search the net there are some pretty good writeups on it. You will have to at least move the rad fans to pusher fans on the front of the rad. Some cars have to have the rad moved forward even and have the support cut and welded. But it's been done time and time again, the info is out there. No idea about the a/t though...

If it worked fine before, it's either the wheels, tires, or your 6-lug conversion. Wheels and tires are easy to check, take them to a tire shop and have them checked. If your lugs are loose it would shake, as mentioned. And also check your axle bolts. If you didn't bolt the hub back on tight enough, or forgot the cotter pin and the nut comes loose. It would be shaking (and destroying your bearings...)

Then you should follow all the advise people have given me for a cable driven vss It usually boils down to replace the gauge cluster.

Knob and tube wiring?

You can recharge it yourself. The refrigerant on my 96 was very low and my AC worked like crap both driving and stopped. I got a r134a recharge bottle from napa, filled up the system, and now it blows nice and cold even when stopped!

You could create a virtual comm port and send the signal to a virtual pin 8. If you REALLY wanted ... So no, you don't NEED there to be a comm port......

It's a good combo to have! One to offroad, and one I can drive thousands of miles and not worry about! The front tires are arctic claws. I got them studded and pulled all the studs out. I hate studded tires, but I got them because they were wicked cheap and brand new. The back ones are something, I dunno. Big grabby tires though the size is 205/75/14.

Do you have the big or small valve heads? Because I was pulling on you up that hill, and that was when I had the very corroded disty cap and rotor.

out of curiosity... where in maine?

Does it sound like a relay clicking on and off really fast?

The buzzing could be the starter relay. If you aren't pushing the pedal far down enough the relay may be opening and closing really fast if the clutch switch is just barely being pushed.

After I fixed the camber on my GL my car not only steered straight, it handles a lot better. And now with new balanced tires I don't get any shakes at all up to 70 (haven't taken it faster than that). It used to start shaking around 40 and getting bad by 50-60. Shaking is usually a tire balance thing.

I was having that issue with my GL. When it is parked the boot was actually sort of crumpled because of the axle angle. Which ate the boot up on a new axle. Now I've fixed the camber and it doesn't crumple up the boot. So I'll see how it goes like that with a new axle. I'm lifted about 2+1/4" up front.

When you go through hell to get your car fixed it's just that much more fun to drive it afterwards. I had a hard time doing my rear bearings, but after 3 days when I finally had it done that first quite test drive made the whole thing worth it. Hang in there, you're doing it right the first time, getting it done, and when it's all finished it will be more fun to drive than if you got it that way. It's a wonderful feeling of accomplishment on that first test ride after hours of painful work. Keep up the good work