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The switch is for the corner lights, not the blinky ones. And an interesting side note, when that switch breaks it makes it so that your parking lights never come on and makes you get pulled over at 1AM because there are no lights on the back of your car. That makes me feel a little stupid, but at least I didn't break anything.

Plus a brat, sure!

Sorry, it's an 89 GL10. You mean those tabs that stick out the back of the steering wheel spline? I noticed the old wheel had them and the new one doesn't... Is that what I'm missing?

So ever since I pulled my steering wheel off and put on a different one my blinkers don't turn off by themselves like they're supposed to. I didn't do anything stupid pulling it off like hammering on it, I used a puller. So I don't see what I've done wrong. I spent the past week trying to figure it out, but I give up.... What have I done and how do I fix it? thanks

Most legacys are governed at 110 or 112mph. if you pull the speed censor you are gear limited at something like 135 with 3.9 gears and the long 5th at 6k RPMs (ej22 redline)

he said a 4 speed in the OP. Since the original engine only had like 40hp it couldn't run such low RPMs at high speed or it wouldn't move.

The clutch shudder is usually from a weak pressure plate or crappy clutch disk. Or oil on the clutch disk. This could happen if the back of the engine is leaking, rear main or separator.

The aviation people run them at like 5 grand continuous and they do just fine.

My legacy with the 3.9 gears and long 5th gear turns 3k at 70, 3.5k at 80. The 99 outback with 4.11 gears and short 5th runs about 3.5k at 70 and around 4k maybe a bit higher at 80. These engines are fine running continuous at 4k in my opinion, they're small engines designed to run at higher RPMs. Hope that helps.

IIRC the ignition is positively switched, so you're in luck there. GD's instructions make sense, but I have a good grasp with electronics. When you get all the parts for it, it starts to make more sense.

The steering wheel does not have to come off on the EA82 to remove the ignition cylinder. You just have to wrestle the dead eye bolts out. I usually drill a little hole in the outside of one and use a punch to spin it around to get it out. When you put it back together just replace it with an M8 bolt.

+1 on ea82 steering wheels being a complete PITA. I bent the wheel pretty bad with the steering wheel puller before it actually came loose. Horrible setup... Post up a pic of the damage. Why exactly does the wheel have to be removed?

Pay someone a crapton of money to do it for you? You most likely need the correct gas and correct wire... By the time you buy all that it will probably be cheaper to pay somone.

10-15 secs isn't really enough to determine if it's running very well or not though... it obviously isn't running well or it would run more than 15 secs.

Isn't that a rear engine car? You'll have to do some fabrication to make that exhaust work on a suby...

And the 4th is correct timing. Did the disty get bumped and mess up the timing when you swapped it over? May as well check it. Plug wires on in the correct order?

Sure it's not just condensation? or left over from the ea71?

Like every car in the US, the SVX switched to OBD2 in 96, not 97. There was a law that said by MY96 every car HAD to be OBD2

So I just spent about an hour friggin with it, and I have the rear alignment damn near perfect! It wasn't really that hard. The FSM looks confusing as all hell, but once you get out there with some wrenches, a 2x4 and tape measure it isn't so bad.

Look good! Need some bigger tires now. I have 205/75/14 on my pugs, that size, or maybe a bit bigger would look good on your car!! And what's the orange car in the foreground??

Lifted rigs aren't "pretty" though. They're full of scratches, dents, etc. Just beat on it offroad until it doesn't go anymore. It'll probably go a lot longer than you expect!

I'll probably just use the string method. It worked pretty nice for the front. I can let go of the wheel and my car drives perfectly straight now. The whole point of this car is not to spend a whole lot of money on it. It's a beater, it's fun to work on, and it runs and drives awesome with what I've done to it so far.

There is a good chance I screwed something up since that was the side I did the wheel bearing on first, and I was still just figuring out how the heck it all was supposed to work ... heh. It wouldn't be a bad idea to pull it apart and put it back together now that I know what the hell I'm doing.