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Is the rotor on that side getting hot? Make sure the pads aren't dragging if the caliper is frozen or whatever. What bolts holding the rotor in? That makes it sound like you're working on a GL. Do you mean the caliper bracket bolts? You can get a breaker bar on those, you just need an extension and some creativity. There's no reason you need a pro to do the brakes for you. Instead spend the money on the proper tools, then next time something breaks you'll have the tools already and can do it yourself. Now that I think about it, the top caliper bracket bolt on EJs can be annoying, I usually take a 17mm box end wrench, and do the trick where you gang another wrench onto the end of it. Use that to pry it loose. The other trick is to get one bolt out of the bracket, and then rock it back and forth to loosen up the bolt that refuses to come loose.

Does no harm. The brakes are just a hydraulic system, all the engine does is provide vacuum to the booster so you don't have to step so hard on the pedal to build up pressure.

If the clutch disc wasn't aligned, it would have been impossible to mate the engine and transmission and start it up anyway... Those plastic alignment tools can be particularly miserable, though. My alignment tool is a cutoff input shaft of a broken transmission, it works great

I don't have my FSM up here at school, but IIRC the flywheel is around 55 ft/lbs, and the PP is something like 11.6 ft/lbs. Are you missing the alignment pegs between the engine and transmission? There should be no adjustment needed of anything. What exactly do you mean by that?

It's smoking just sitting there at idle in neutral? Whenever you pull an engine out and put it back in you're gonna have smoke on startup. You got your greasy paw prints all over exhaust parts, you spilled some coolant over the top of the engine, you dropped a zip tie on the cat converter... etc. All that stuff is gonna smoke for the first few minutes when you start the engine. The clutch really doesn't have any way of slipping when it's sitting at idle in neutral and as such shouldn't be the part making smoke. The clutch cable is properly adjusted when you have about 1/8" - 1/4" of forward/backward play at the clutch fork.

No spark to the injectors...? I'm assuming the check engine light is on, what are the codes?

I like the dead fly over the oil idiot light.

Wow, usually sunroof leaks are the drains being clogged. My 98 LGT had a sunroof, I ended up having to replace the entire sunroof assembly, what a PITA! Yea, my outback had the same trunk leaky issue, I just ignored it...

It leaks in around the seal between the light and the hatch. You have to remove the whole light assembly and reseal it to the hatch. It's kind of a pain.

Just remove the 4 bolts from the driveshaft to the rear diff (you'll need two 12mm wrenches). Use zip ties or bailing wire or something to hang the driveshaft up to the side so it doesn't drag on the ground and you'll be fine. Even with the transmission in fwd I'd be worried the back bearing in the transmission wouldn't get properly lubricated without the rest of the transmission turning.

forester2002s, thanks for the info! I'll check that out tomorrow morning. Fairtax, it doesn't work when I hotwire the clutch switch. I didn't realize there were two brake switches. I'll have to check that out. I think all the fuses are good... I'll have to do one more check, though. There isn't a light on the dash (as far as I know...), but the indicator light on the cruise button lights up when I push it .

Does the door open light on the dash come on when the hatch is open?

So the clutch switch was part of the problem. I even went as far as putting a jumper in the plug to completely bypass the switch, and the cruise still doesn't work. Definitely part of the issue, but there's something bigger going on here. On all my other subarus, it seem when I pushed the cruise button I heard a relay click under the dash somewhere, that doesn't happen on the forester. Could there be a problem with the CC module or something else?

Check back in 600,000 miles

Huh, interesting. It looked ok, but after seeing that around the net I'm gonna have to take a closer look. The outback CC worked fine, so if it is that switch I can probably just rob it off the outback...

Yea, sometimes it's hard when there's a common problem to figure out which threads are good, and which threads are people.\ saying google it and look for the thread. Care to share a thread that does a good job summing up the issues and digesting it into a good answer?

I wish I knew, I have no idea if it worked beforehand or not. That was the first thing I wondered, too. The brake switch should be working, the brake lights go on and off. I think there's only one switch on the brakes. The engine won't start unless the clutch is pushed, so I know the bottom switch works, but yea, there is another switch that activates as soon as you push the pedal that should kick CC off. I'll check to make sure that one is doing its thing.

Long story short, the cruise control in my 2002 manual forester doesn't work. The light comes on when I push the cruise button, but nothing else happens. Short story long, probably important info in here. My 2000 outback rusted out beyond repair and this forester appeared in my possession for free (even longer story, who cares). I had swapped a 2.2 into my outback, and the forester needed an engine, so I did a day from hell and changed all the good parts over. Swapped the keyless entry module over to the forester and all that good stuff. The part that gets interesting is the stupid thing wouldn't start, everything plugged in just fine, spark, fuel, no start. Put the outback ECU in the forester, just plugs right in. Silly thing fired right up, runs great, drives fine, did almost a 300 mile trip tonight and no CEL or any other issues.... except that cruise control doesn't work at all. Yes I swapped the vacuum nipple onto the manifold and hooked up the vacuum line for the CC thing. I'm at a complete loss as to where I should start on this one, maybe trying to swap the CC control module from the outback?

You should be downshifting to slow down to a stop anyway. there's no reason to stop with your clutch in, transmission in highest gear... Now you have a REALLY good reason not to do that...if you're under a speed where you'd use 4th gear for driving, don't be in 4th gear, then it won't get stuck.

Something about the shift pads wearing out inside the transmission. Is it only getting stuck in 4th gear when you're stopped? That's usually when I see them get stuck in 3rd/4th. The solution is just to not come to a stop in gear.

The feed comes from the fuel filter, it's the shorter line. Also check to make sure your cam and crank position sensors are plugged all the way in. I know this one sounds stupid, but it happened to me... Didn't click the plug all the way into the sensor once.

An 01 outback doesn't have a MAF.

What image?

Flywheel and clutch kid, and flywheel have to match. I've put ej22 clutches on an ej25 trans and vice versa just fine. You can use any EJ trans as either hydraulic or cable. To change from hydraulic to cable you change the hole the pivot is mounted in and get a cable clutch fork along with the clutch cable mounting bracket Your GL brake booster is fine, just hook the vacuum hose up to the engine like normal. Yes, you can just thread the GL cable into the EJ trans Phase1/2 difference is the 4 vs 8 bellhousing bolts. It's not a big deal. If you put a 4 bolt engine on an 8 bolt trans you only end up with the top starter bolt. The starter flange takes all the torque from starting anyawy. I've run like this for years and it never caused an issue. 8 bolt engine on a 4 bolt trans is no issue.

All 3rd gen outbacks are about that heavy, afaik they all have the same suspension.