BlueSteel

yes that stuff is very expensive ($260 AU per bulk pack) it is also pretty heavy, not sure exactly how heavy tho i think it was well worth the effort it stopped almost all the panel vibration that i had, still has a few rattles, but these are bits i am still to do having a peice of foam between anything that rattles will fix most of mine, just gotta get to them

i used it... loooove the stuff i used 2 bulk packs dynamat extreme that did both front doors (inner and outer skin) Tailgate (outer Skin) Roof (outer skin and roof lining) Wheel Arches in the rear

i got some custom king springs for the MY wagon in the front and moved the torsion bar in the rear down a notch. looked the part ended up too soft for my liking and kept riding on the bump stops too much still have the front springs if anyone wants them (in aus tho)

get yerself a 6mm pin punch... short one to start them off and a long one to knock em through. those 2 tools will be the best investment you ever make oh and i made about 6 months in RWD before i stuffed the gearbox. that was in an L series turbo touring wagon (GL10 i think) The splines on the rear output started wearing badly and kept trying to lock up the tailshaft AWD for me now:banana:

i wouldnt agree with that i have 3.9 ratios in my ea82 and know of lots of people that do try ausubaru.com they'll let you know whats about in aus cheers Bluesteel

ive had a liberty (legacy for you guys) dual cup holder mounted under the cd player i dont think i have any pics at the mo, but you would just hit it with the shifter when there were drinks in it

is all good now unscrewed the top 2 bolts with a centrepunch, came off nice and easily

my soob was just stolen and they made it all the way down the street where they ditched it coz it didnt start and the steering lock was on they messed up the Ignition Barrel and now i cant get the steering lock off with the key does anyone know how to pull it off soob is a 1985 gl10 cheers Bluesteel

on mine they were under the dash, near the ecu mounted under the steering column there should be a bright green male and female spade and a black male and female spade the green ones should be easy enough to find and the other will be right next to it good luck! *edit - should all be single wire plugs

disconnect the swaybar from the lower control arm its stopping you from lowering the steering knuckle also i find that its easier to leave the 3 bolts holding the strut top mount to the car on while you undo the lower half first, just makes things a little easier

the ground wire does serve a purpose well on an ea81 it does anyways, the radiator sits on rubber supports and as such dosent make any contact with the body the thermoswitch (the 1 wire type) needs to get an earth from the radiator to finish the connection and turn on the thermofans also with no grounding wire the radiator trys to ground through the coolant to the engine block which helps speed up the corrosion process

you still have room for 2 more in front of your last 2 headlights or if youre keen to go rally style, hows about a light pod for the bonnet im gettin pretty good with the fibreglass these days

just somethig to watch on those stamped steel type wheel is they can have trouble balancing them properly, which especially with lower profile tyres can give you some issues

just drill it out and put a bolt all the way through and put a nut on the other side:eek:

ill get some of the twagon eventually too

another version of the flexi flares cost is about $10 AUD per meter

if you head over to ausubaru.com there are lots of people who have done this conversion im most of the way through an ej22 into MY at the moment and the hardest thing has been the wiring just takes a lot of effort to get your head around what needs to go and what needs to stay then to splice the new engine loom into the old body loom anyways heres a general guide to whats involved http://ausubaru.com/main/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=1013

heres a site that do em... not too cheap tho http://www.truckn-store.com/product.asp?pg=2&ID=93730&returnURL=%2Fproduct%2Easp%3Fsource%3D%26ID%3D93730%26returnURL%3D%252Fproduct%255Flist%252Easp%253Fid%253D1482 oh and they do adapters too http://www.truckn-store.com/product.asp?pg=3&ID=93731&returnURL=%2Fproduct%2Easp%3Fpg%3D4%26ID%3D93731%26returnURL%3D%252Fproduct%252Easp%253Fpg%253D3%2526ID%253D93731%2526returnURL%253D%25252Fproduct%25252Easp%25253Fpg%25253D2%252526ID%25253D93731%252526returnURL%25253D%2525252Fproduct%2525252Easp%2525253FreturnURL%2525253Ddefault%2525252Easp%25252526ID%2525253D93731 havent used them, but they look the goods

i know the round ones of the early liberty's (legacy) work well and bolt straight in lots of rubber in those, no where near as likely to break

theyre all standard thread nuts if your sitting under the car with your head in the middle and looking toward the end of the tie rod then the locknut will turn anti-clockwise the tierod end will turn clockwise if they dont want to come loose, get a bigger spanner or put a bit of pipe over it for more leverage

ah well.. youve done the hard part they just unscrew in the normal unscrew direction crack the lock nut loose then there should be a flat spot on the tie rod just hold that with a shifter and wind the tie rod end loose might need some more of that crc/wd40/pbblaster or whatever u use

im guessing your trying to get the ball joint off? take the nut off the top spray the whole thing with some crc or wd40 or pbblaster or whatever you have belt the side of the steering knuckle with a big hammer it should then just fall out if it dosent then put a block of wood or something that wont damage the threads on top of it and belt it straight out the key is in the belting... you gotta have a go

if your struggling to reach yer shifter... isnt your cupholders and screen going to be a bit harder to reach? just being picky just cut your linkages and sleeve them to whatever length you need and weld the sleeve into position you might even have to cut out some of the transmission tunnel when you move it back so the shifters dont hit on anything

all ya gotta do is belt the old ones out inner from the outer and outer from the inner, dont worry about messing them up becoz your putting new ones in anyways to put the new ones in, just tap them in you could try using a really big sockes as you should only be tapping opn the outer edge of the bearing eg the bigger of the 2 metal rings as to not bugger up your bearings all they are is a press fit so with enough hammering they will go in or out

if you go to the Login link at the top of the page http://ausubaru.com/main/modules.php?name=Your_Account&redirect=index and log in and put the security code thingy in too... should work for ya... we hope anyway... any info on the west coast tracks would be sweet... and youll have to get yourself a decent set of tyres and come for a mission with us... sometime cheers