xbeerd

yeah, the header was like $128 w/ free shipping, only caveat is that the stock skid plate wont fit around it, so a custom would have to be fabbed up. but unlike some other headers, you arent limited to only the stock small oil filters due to clearance.

sure, i have this header from a 2.5rs this bolted up with no problems to the next exhaust section... next is the stock middle pipe with both cats, cept for the 2nd O2 sensor is currently blocked off since the sensor from the donor car didnt work anyways. I may cut out the 2nd cat and just extend the pipe. the hanger for that piece of the pipe sits a little lower than the EA hanging point, so i bolted a piece of metal to the EA hang point and just bent the metal to hold it in place while i worked on the rest. then, i cut the flange off of the stock next section of pipe (catback pipe?) and welded it to the end of that "thrush" glasspack. after that i welded on a piece of the stock pipe that was about a 60 degree bend or so (maybe??) to point right about where i wanted the pipe to exit, and then i welded on a section of the exhaust pipe, cut it to the length i wanted, then hammered on a 'turn out' exhaust tip to direct the air slightly away from the car body. its on there, pretty safe to say its not comin off. at this point the exhaust is only held on by the header, and the J clip thing i made, so a $3 'universal exhaust hanger' from Advance Auto parts.. i drilled a couple holes and bolted it to the tunnel, unfortunately i had to cut my carpet in the rear to put the bolts thru, but i have another idea for that rear of the car anyways since i have no seatbelts back there anymore due to rust issues. all the pipe i used was 2" as i am pretty sure thats the same as stock, i used that 60 degree bend part as a guide, it measured up about 2" ID. if that pipe is too small.. someone please let me know, LOL. but thats basically how i did the current exhaust. its all solid bolted together, no spring bolts ( i didnt have any that fit, nor did i really wanna spend the money to buy some )

eh, its ok. my original plan is to have a Y pipe after that glasspack and have a pipe coming off of each side of the car. i think i wanna take that glass pack off and weld in a piece of pipe instead, im not 100% on the sound with that glass pack in. its a 'thrush' glasspack i got from fleetfarm, i think a cherry bomb would have better sound. also thinking of drillin out the baffles on the thrush glasspack to see how that goes. once i get a pipe bender, i'm gonna make a Y pipe. hopefully in the comin weeks.

yeah, i was just hoping not to have to dig it out. the cars up on jackstands up on a trailer, and everything that was pulled off the car plus some bumpers and ************ are all piled in the back of the car. also trying to eliminate extra stuff from sittin around in the car.

is dude gonna take it as trade +cash?

thoughts: my AC worked like it was brand new... now its in a pile. because i removed the unit and because of where i put the ecu, i have to make a duct to go between the blower and the heater core box, its a work in progress to be completed by late fall at the latest. LOL. i think i used it twice, once to see if it worked, and one other time just to see if it still worked. im a windows-open kinda guy.

Hmm... thats got me thinkin. come to think of it... my donor outback is still around. i can go dig out the fuel pump and get the sensors and see what i can find.

i found it easiest to pull the dash by... -remove lower panel under steering shaft -pull steering wheel -remove steering shaft bolts to it hangs free -unplug all 8 million different connectors in the drivers side and passenger side corners and vacuum lines/hvac hoses. take note of the AC/Vent control on the left of the dash, as well as the HVAC hot/cold control that connects next to the gas pedal to flip that. -there's like 7 screws holding the actual dash up. 3 across the top, 2 on the lower corners, and then 2 more i believe in the center under the cig lighter area (have to pull the center console dependin which console you have) the dash hangs on a little hook thing by the center top screw, once all is loose you can lift it up and pull it out. you'll find quickly if you forgot to unplug something. it would help to have a friend to assist with this part. i did it myself, it was a ***************. i think thats about it. im told the swap can be done without pullin the dash out. which i do believe, but found out AFTER i pulled it. althouh the extra space while working was nice. if i did it all again, i'd try without pullin the dash. if you want to remove the ac and mount the ecu where i did,behind where the ac was, you can remove the glove box and lower bracket it mounts to and gain all the space you need. also to note. i found it easier to wire the tach and vss into the ECU plugs leading up to the wiring harness, rather than takin the gauge cluster out. the wires are just twisted to a point, and soldered and stuck in there, and secured with some e-tape. it should hold fine, if it comes out. i'll address it again.

i assume you mean as far as the wiring going thru the firewall to the engine? yeah. i just drilled 2 1.5" holes in the firewall so the stock rubber thing would fit. (idea courtesy of MilesFox) you can 'kinda' see it in this pic as far as what you'll be lookin at after stripped down. and i dont know why i didnt run the main relay wiring along with the obd2/fuelpump relay wiring etc. that would have made too much sense. also, ignore that thing about the ign relay there that i twirled out.

i did that too on the new axle. not by choice, it slid up on its own, and then i said.. hey, thats a good idea! regardless, my boot still tore. :/ but it was probably because it was really extended yet, and part of it was popped in.

yeah, i like being able to use 5th gear on the hwy now. and actually accellerate or just keep my speed in general on a hill. i'd have to be at like 70+mph in 5th to keep my speed up on an incline. atleast with the 3at and ea motor, you are already up at like 4300 rpms at those speeds so its not as bad.

now it supports the airbox. LOL! i was pretty sure it wasnt much more than that. just didnt look into it that closely. but then, yeah, that would be a pretty ************ty strut bar. hahah!!:lol: it almost seems that the ej is slightly narrower than the ea82 was. i could be wrong tho. could just be because there is less in the engine bay now.

i have a 2" lift from Bill (beast i drive), so the cross member is still in its stock location. i am gonna replace that airbox, and get an intake off of ebay for $30 shipped, comes with the pipe and cone filter. some people just cut off the spare tire mount. im also going to put the 2000 Outbacks crossmember blocks on the car (same spacing as far as i can tell), should drop the crossmember about 1" or so. my axles will thank me, my mushy suspension lets the front end raise up a bit when on the gas hard, and i tore my axle boot on my 2 month old EMPI axle. :/ im also not to thrilled about the flexible coolant hose, but im getting an EJ radiator from a guy with the hoses that should fit better.

here are a bunch of other pics... this all took course from about the middle of july till now, pretty much only having a few hours after work in the evening to do anything. (click to enlarge)

well. the whole swap was a hurdle because i had never swapped anything before. LOL! in all honesty, it was fairly straight forward. you cant really follow the EA2EJ guide from Numbchux page by page, but the principles are the same. i didnt think stripping down the harness was too hard. just time consuming more so since i didnt label anything when i took it out of the car (2000 Outback), but i have (and printed out) the entire 2000 legacy fsm (its 8 2" binders) plus i got some tips from Tosh,GD, Eulogious, and a few others on some things but for the most part it wasnt bad. Tosh has a picture of the few wires from the ecu needed for the thing to run, but there are a few other wires needed depending how you plan on doin it. the only thing i am not 100% sure on is the alternator wiring, i wired it in to the EA alternator connector it seems fine but the alternator heats up a little bit. but it doesnt over charge as far as i can tell. if you are gonna do the swap, definately have the EA fsm and EJ fsm handy to use. it was much help.

not the best pic but it gives the idea, the stock airbox sits kinda cockeyed on the TB because of the strut bar or whatever it is that goes across the rear of the engine bay. my other camera is out in the garage, i'll trek out and get it. its got some more better pics.

i am just finishing up this swap. let me go get you a picture.

you guys for your under hood lighting, could just get a switch like that of a car alarm hood switch. contact is broken when hood is down, and turns the light on when hood open. of course, this would leave the light on all the time the hood is open so a secondary switch would be needed for daylight work so as not to drain the battery. not really necessary, but different.

im just finishing up the EJ swap with an obdII engine and harness from a 2k Outback (ej25, mated to ea82 5spd Dual Range, 92 Loyale finishing up=im driving the car, just have to put it back together) the wiring harness seemed much easier than that of the earlier harnesses (obdI) based on how i read the EA2EJ doc. just find and download the FSM for your year range and study the wiring bulkhead layout, connections, shapes, and label everything you can. i didnt label before i took it out of the car, so it DID take a little longer to get thru the harness, but just taking my time and removing the connectors one at a time until i knew i had left what i needed (pretty much.. the engine side wiring, the obdII connector, and the Main and fuel relay wiring) i left about 3' of wires from the other stuff on the ecu just incase i needed it for someting, IE.. ecu controlled fan relay etc. for the ecu i tied the constant and switched power to the same switch, otherwise the ecu power wasnt getting cut, Tosh on the board gave me that idea. havent seen any adverse problems doin that. this was the first swap i have ever attempted, and the first time i pulled a motor by myself. i did it in my spare time by my self in a bout a month. use the board to search for answers and ask questions, chances are its answered in here somewhere. plus, with the ej25.. i put $12 of gas in @ $3.59/gal. and drove about 105 miles or so. (speedo showed 86, but i have 27" Grabbers on it, about rouhly 18% over sized maybe?) pretty close to 30mpg with 3 bad axles ! my ea82 was consistantly at 20mpg, city or highway or combined

same here. its not that im worried about them, but it would be nice to have the light pop on when an actual code comes around. rather than checking it out periodically if something is going on. thats all really. whats your alternator setup like? mine has the black/white wire and then a light green/red (pretty sure its Lg/R) wire from the connector, i have the proper one run for the 'charge light'. i just put the other one into the other spot on the ea connector eh? the connector is just a 2 wire connector but there is an unused 3rd pin on it.

he says he'll consider trade.... maybe he'll trade plus cash with ya?

SO, anyone tackle this one and eliminate the fuel temp sensor code? its just lookin for some voltage im guessing, so is it just a matter of putting a resistor between those 2 pins on the ecu? i got a couple other fuel related codes too, but i cant remember what they were

i never said i thought that looked good. i also never said it was gay to paint ************ on the motor, i just said i would have perosnally kept it in theme with the cars exterior paint job. thats all. my subscription to Gyrochopper Illustrated ran out. [/debate]

i guess, if you are looking to sell it to someone looking to get out of a riced out civic. You should have atleast kept the paint colors in theme with the cars paint job, ie, orange or white valve covers. for the majority of people. the best bet would be to put the plastic covers back on. and i dont need an explanation of why its easier to have them off. i know. just sayin..

seems like a waste of time if you are gonna sell the car, just sayin'