xbeerd

here ya go... you can see the difference in the OD. i reconfirmed the shipping invoice shows the RV852 that i ordered which is listed under the 2.3L I4 Tempo. they crossreference to Moog parts via the "852" etc. IE RV852 (Rockwell) and CC852 (Moog), it even says CC852 on the box along with the RV852. In the list of coil springs, the closest i seem to get is the Raybestos, Inside Diameter=4.406" Wire Diameter=.515" Free Height=15.13" Load height=11" which is a rear spring, not a front spring. Think its possible you had a rear strut, not a front strut?

Hey Jeszek, i've scanned over that page i dont know how many times, however, that write up has great info and part numbers about the rear setup. but doenst give ANY real details about part numbers or year range of the tempo springs other than just saying Tempo Springs. i've found out the hardway, that the 94 springs are NOT the right size. they seem to split the generations as 83-87 and 88-94. i've searched up and down this board for real info on this and its mentioned, but no one seems to have made a clear write up or left any real details about it. i'm gonna take a look again at the springs i have here before i ship them back to see if i am missing something, maybe take some pics too.

x2 yeah thats pretty crappy and sheisty! i've never heard that one before for sure.

oh man, i didnt see you were in alaska! hope you got a garage heater? or is it still pretty decent when the suns out? Good luck getting those roll pins out. that sounds like its gonna be a chore

searching for other models. this seems to be the closest i have found. RAYBESTOS Part # 5911037 More Information About this Part Professional Grade; Sold in Pairs -- Inside Diameter=4.406" Wire Diameter=.515" Free Height=15.13" Load height=11"

Bringing up an old thread..... i ordered some springs from RockAuto, 1994 Ford Tempo, were Rockwell/Husky/RAD (whatever they are called now) RV852 was the part number. i used 94 as it was mentioned in one of the threads i asked this inon here somewhere. anyways.. they are smaller than the EA82 springs on my car. these springs seem to be about 1/2-3/4" smaller in diameter, it almost fit inside the Uberoo... do you recall exactly what year car your springs came from? i gotta send these back and dont wanna end up gettin the wrong things again.

should be pretty straight forward. i havent seen those manuals. so you are just swapping DOJ's/inner CVs on the axles? look in the "Ultimate Subaru Repair Manual" part of this website, its got how to break down the axle to replace the boots etc. basically the same process.

if you watch the Art of Subaru Maintenance series on Fox's youtube pages, it shows the conversion of my car from 3at to 5spd d/r. maybe will give the info you need? i just got the Napa clutch kit that was like $189 or something at the time, my trans has like 220k on it now, and with the new clutch its holding up fine with my ej25 attached to it. the swap has a couple of gremlins to work out but the pressure plate holding isnt one of them. thankfully. LOL.

we had a 2000 outback. got it with 75k on it in 2004, i know im bad, but i never got around to changing the timing belts until 175k when my wife had the radiator blow up on her and warped the head. previous to that the HG's were fine, i never had to add coolant or anything. never experienced the tranny thing. we put a used engine in from a junkyard, so the new timin belt etc i got went on that. then the car got tboned last winter and the ej25 is in my loyale now, but other than the radiator and my wife being a typical woman (i dont mean that in a bad way, just how men and women work) the car was great. had to change an axle once on it, no cv issues, it was the DOJ. we replaced it with a 2002 OB, basically the same car for the most part.

maybe we should make a fwd to rwd video!

lol weird. no smoke or anything just smell eh? hmm. could be clogged up i guess, i dont know how youd unclog the cat tho. sounds like it would be a ***************. regarding idle.. think the front o2 sensor could be bad, and its throwing stuff off? maybe some of this info will be of some help see if the 02 sensor is culprit, although i dont know if it'll work with out a obd-usb scanner

milesfox converted his 88DL into RWD. You could PM him for how exactly.

My cars with bad cats smelled like rotten eggs. That what you got?

replaced drivers side axle in the 2002 Ob with a spare i had. put a new boot on the old one. tossed it on the shelf for the next go around. now gonna go see what rust i have to hide/patch for the winter months on the 92 loyale.

i hear ya dude. my main question is regarding bennie's diagram of the EJ and EA wiring. with the EJ having 3 wires in the connector. since mines got 2 (from 2000 Outback) im a bit confused. the meter on the dash is near the top of 12v when driving, but when i turn on the acc is sitting slightly below 12v and drops down to like 8 or 9v when turning the starter initially.

sorry to revisit this.. again.... my EJ alternator only has 2 wires. it seems the B/Y is the charge light, that would leave the other one to be the ign wire? my 2 wires go into the stock ea connector. where does the other wire in the EA harness end up down the loom? at the ecu?

sweet find man! you should post up some pics! be sure to investigate the underside for any hidden rust demons:drunk:

i rewired the constant 12v in the car so my radio now has memory as well as my ej ecu. next: troubleshoot my 2000 rpm idle. repair axle boots. and get ready for salt/winter

here's an update. rewired my ECU 12vConstant to an actual constant, not tied in with the ECU switch, car seems to run better now. the volt meter is a little higher, not much, it still sits around 11v when i turn on the ecu/ign and then drops to about 8.5 or 9v when cranking. think that could be just a bad battery? when the cars running it looks to be about 13-14 volts in the system

you beat me to it, yeah, the loyales got no fuses under the hood.

do you know what fuse that is off hand? im pretty sure i check all the fuses in the fusebox under the dash. under the hood are you talkin about a fusible link?

im sorry, yeah, its the stock AM/FM radio with a harmon kardon Drive+play ipod connector (ipod in glove box, display mounted where clock was, controller mounted near steering wheel) if i recall i thought the orange wire would be for the tape deck power, maybe not, i dunno. anyways... i've had it hooked up like this and it hasnt caused any battery drainage. so im thinking that i should be good to leave it as it is without issue.

did you do the tape deck trick thing to get the rca cables working?

yeah i was gonna tap into the power wire to the ignition originally. but then i found that green one. my only concern was that i was powering something else that didnt need to be powered, which, really is only an issue 3-4 months outta the year when its cold as ************ here in WI. just thinking thought, if that orange wire is a power output.. couldnt that be problematic if im sendin 12v from the battery to it when the radio is on, and its running smack into 12v from the green wire? i suppose a diode could be a solution to that. i think i'll make a connector to connect the green wire to the constant.

So since my EJ swap, the memory of the radio is non existent, now i cant see how the swap would cause this. SO.. how is the constant power wired? i got the pinout here... http://tinyurl.com/6zteorh (the12volt.com) but where does the constant power come thru the wiring harness? i am thinking i just have a connector loose or something but i was doin a ninja flip looking up under the steering column and couldnt find anything, there were a few connectors for stuff like cruise etc that my car doesnt have etc. i got the memory to work this way though.. only thing is i dont know what the orange wire or the green wire are really for? the green wire has 12v+ constant with the key off. the orange, i assumed was probably for an accessory (tape deck?) yet this retained the memory. just dont want to find a dead battery in the AM. hmmmm?