xbeerd

yeah, i knowi would have to offset them and all. and i'd probably bolt them on. then weld them all together, then weld bolts into the uppers again. im sure it would be fine, but probably just be kinda sketchy lookin.. i think i am going to try to scrounge up and buy the front and rear 4" spacers, i can probably fab up the rest, unless i can find enough for a whole kit, but i doubt thats gonna happen unless i find a used one. i dont know if i would be albe to sell the 2" kit locally, i think toms (theloyale) the only guy in town that'd be lookin to lift a soob. and he already did!

Thanks Tom. Not lokin for the WHOLE thing. Just the tube.

oh you guys and your details.:-p Its for an ea82/loyale. Tube bolts to body. Then control arms and dif bolt to it.

No. The big rump roast tube in the back that the control arms, trailing arms and dif attach to. I really don't know what its called?! Rear crossmember maybe?

what does a pick n pull 'store' charge for the rear suspension tube? i couldnt find anything like it on their price list and they are closed. wondering if its worth grabbing the whole thing.

oh yeah, i know all that about lowerin the cross member etc, with my 2" lift, i already have lowered my cross member in the front with the body blocks from a 2000 outback (bout 1.25"??? maybe?) ( just wanna work on some 4" lift blocks for the struts, then i'll make some spacers for the crossmemeber, radius rod/trans mount, and rear suspension tube. the rear will suck as my bolts are siezed up, gonna drill them out and retap the holes on that side.... ugh! i just hope i dont have to cut in and access it from the top of the frame.

yeah i figured it wasnt great of an option. but since i had it, i thought i would use it if it was strong enough. i definately dont want to risk safety for weight, i dont really car about being lighter or anything. so, 3/16" or 1/4" would be what to look for then eh?

2. Or should I say... What's good .25"? I think the 1" sq tube I have is 11 gauge which is about 1/8, slightly under

1. hypothetically speaking... what are your thoughts on taking a 2" strut spacer, we'll use one from Bill Ohmlin, hypothetially... getting some 1.5" square tubing and cutting in a fashion of OneEye lift technique, and then welding them onto the strut spacer for a taller lift? yay? nay? im crazy for thinkin of it? 2.. to lower the suspension tube, and the radius rod mounts, would 11gauge steel work for a 1 or 2" spacer? or need something a bit larger?

Thanks! i seen the write up, i just thought i would put in document with a bit more info down about the install and using the 4runner stuff AND these springs with part numbers since there werent spring part numbers in your write up. and i just wanted to have exactly what i did and results shown for other people. plus its another option for approximately a 4" lift in the rear!

yeah, the axles arent the issue, they could be figured out. but what i wanted to accomplish was keep my 4x140 bolt pattern, and have a macphearson strut and impreza knuckle to have camber adjustment option. i dont really want to have to get new wheels and tires if ended up with 5lug impreza knuckles etc.

They aren't that different. But I think the problem to run into is that there is no camber adjustment on the ea. So hdpe spacers would give me more positive camber.. That's not good! The spacer would have to be offset to compensate. I thought about making some 1"-2" lift blocks as in the diy lifts seen on here by one eye etc. And then bolting that to the lift block, then welding it. But that setup kinda scares me. Lol! I wish I could switch to ej knuckles for the camber adjustment, but put the ea hubs in them to keep my bolt pattern. Since new wheels and tires isn't going to happen. As far as I know you can't Frankenstein that combo with the knuckle.

now to make 3 or 4" on the front.. i wish there were some struts that were just 2" taller than the stock ea82 ones! or someone that had free 3-4" strut blocks atleast!

27" General Grabber AT2

just a pic update after a few weeks of driving, springs didnt settle much.... although, now i want to lift the front more!

Perfect! Thanks!

need a quick pic! thanks!!

put some anti sieze on it when you reassemble everything, should help a bit for next time.

yay another wisconsin person!

got any more pics on the brake setup? like how they mount to the knuckle etc?

other than a little bit of a leaky headgasket, the things running pretty good, its not perfect. but it always gets me from here to there. the only problem i get now is that when i go to start it, i turn it over for a while and it doesnt start, but then i get off the starter, hit it again and it start instantly. i dont know if thats related to a vacuum leak somewhere, IAC sticky, maybe my alternator is wired wrong even tho the voltage is fine (14.2v) output. maybe im not exciting the alternator when i turn on the ign? who knows. lol.

"you ok? No front end damage? good, oh by the way.. im putting that motor in my car" i think thats about how it went. :-p

oh ok. would there be any benefit to having it or not having it?

well.. my wife got Tboned in our 2000 outback, so i didnt know whatelse to do with the motor.

what is this? i was going to swap a throttle body onto my engine (from a 01 forester, my motor is from a 00 Outback that was an automatic) with a dialed in TPS, but it doesnt have the hose barb for the hose that leads to this sensor. do i even need it?