Ricearu

even better. there wasn't one. I believe the hood and the windshield made sweet crunchy love in a formal life. I do believe this wago will be getting an outback/gt hood, grille, and twin pot calipers, as well as rear disc conversion. only a couple hundred dollar score at the local import yard (where I found the only 93 lego ss I have EVER seen in texas):banana:

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=116142 lots of work to be done for the guy.

know anyone with the same gen lego? borrow their MAF sensor. I remember my 93 lego doing exactly this, and I replaced the maf sensor and boom gone. I remember, If I started it and bolted off, the next time I stopped, it would die and continue dying or barely running at idle at every stop, that is until I would turn the key off, start the car and let the idle come down from its 2500 rpm happy place to a dead idle (WITHOUT TOUCHING THE THROTTLE) and it would run like a baby. till I shut it off and did it all over again. edit: also, it misfired alot too, I am guessing due to lean condition

he also winched out his core support last week when I was at work on his day off. a dodge with a winch = frame machine from redneck hell. the fender even bolts back up!

My roommate picked this pig up off craigslist. $500 bones. Runs and drives. needs a windshield, hood, steering rack, inner tie rods, axle seal. etc first we started with an oil change. we began with the de-ricing. out with the rice, in with the new. just for a little extras

I know when working on air cooled engines, they say the exhaust valve difference is caused by stretch. Hot valve, plus spring pressure. makes sense. I know lack of valve adjustment on a VW will cause an exhaust valve to seperate at the head, and fall into the cylinder and make mash of the piston and head.

that seriously makes me want a wagon trailor!!!

dan, you are in TEXAS and you managed to find one and a half rolling gen 1 brats. you will get looks loaded down :lol:or not

hmmm the O2 situation is wierd. Reading back on older posts, I agree with ob99w that the temp sensor is off kilter. There should be 2 ECT sensors. One for the gauge, one for the ECU. which one did you replace?

2 BFH's, a punch, a chisel, a 12" bar to hammer the lower control arm down, removed sway bar bolt, ball joint pinch bolt, castle nut, and beat the piss out if it. took a while. man am i happy. that ball joint had 1/4" of play and was barely even together. the ball almost was able to come out of the cup...

passenger side axle and lower ball joint. man what a pita on that ball joint.

no prob. It doesn't have TONS of power, but my cheap speakers don't complain about being overpowered and it has a set of RCA's that I have hooked to my 10" and 8" subs

I think its bad gas, both times it has happened, it has been after a heavy rump roast rain and I have bought gas from the same QT which happens to be at the bottom of a hill. I got it to run that day, and flogged it home and now it runs just fine. I think I was trying to burn water lol. Next time it does it, Im going to add some ISOHEET water eliminator. I came to this conclusion last night...

my ej had been overheated by me... doh! twice . cracked radiator. original hg's at 244k. no problems. trust gd, if its got hella o/h problem, rip them heads off and see what is up. its better to do it now rather than in the car...

it quit already... sneaky bastard like torturing me for all that wheeling on bad ball joints really though, its super rich when this happens, like I could set fire to the exhaust gasses. I don't think its fuel...

we both have this one: http://www.amazon.com/Dual-XR4110-3-5mm-Mechless-Receiver/dp/B002OMB7FE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1284517480&sr=8-1

My car did this a few months ago, it started bogging down once warm. literally falling on it's face only to perk up again. Today, it did it again and I could floor it and all it would do is surge to about 1500rpms, then flat line to barely running. like 300 rpm only to surge again. Every now and again, it will rev to like 4 grand, then continue stalling. Its like it is starving for fuel, but when it does it, it reeks of gas but will never backfire? Sometimes it will even die. I am a decent mechanic but damn I am stumped. Also, if I pull over and stop, for like 20 minutes, it will drive for another 20-30 mins. I'm friggen lost.

it is a chinese one I got from work. its a 2000lb dead 4000lb rolling rated winch. I tested it by pullin my car through the bar ditch in neutral.it didn't complain, neither did I for the $30 price tag. too bad there isn't any more... now, what i REALLY want is some junk plate steel to build myself a low profile one piece push bar bumper with integraded winch mount. the plate the wench is on now, is bolted through the bumper support, but i still dont like it that much

where is he at in texas?

bullschmidt. don't change it. i lost a lego trans to a flush. shifted just fine. changed the fluid. dead. 1-2 only. domestic or foreign, the valve bodies are still made of aluminum.

i love my dual. it was 50 bucks and only about 5 or 6 inches deep:banana:

nice! I would add that you should use those tamper resistant screws to keep the idiots at bay. like this, available with matching bits at ace hardware btw, that stereo is one helluva knuckle buster lol!

or if you are crafty and don't care about having a cd player... I am all mp3 now!

mounted my winch, pics to come later