Ricearu

ooooohhh a working digi-dash!!! the non existant knock sensor can cause all kinds of hell. make that priority one! for now, you can have someone you know ohm theirs and wire in a temp resistor of the same ohm to make it think there is one there. that is purely temporary of coarse, just so you can see how it runs

I have 10guage wire running from the battery, to the switches, from the switches, I have both the uppers and lowers hooked up to their own sides of the switches. btw the switches are DPDT so left and right have their own wire also. I wanted to use relays but not enough cash. the lights are only 35w each hi or lo. they only pull about 3a each, and they are ran through 10a per pole switches. i did my research before I cheaped out:grin:

I removed the tape deck and frenched a plastic plate into the trim bezel for a switch panel for my off road lights. Its friggen boss. the left two switches control the lights, the other two are dummy's until i get rack lights lol. They are also spdt so up is high beam, down is low beam left is lowers, left center is uppers, each with its own hi/lo circuit

use a "for plastic" spray paint, like Krylon Fusion. It has a fan tip so it lays up smooth. it also has flex agents and bonding agents specially for plastics. No primer necessary! the bumper and trim paint also has these special additives. no priming necessary.

the fan should come on as soon as you kick the a/c on. +1 on the thermostat. make sure you go OEM with it. the aftermarkets suck and these engines are way too easy to destroy by overheating

? what will these do?

oh yeah, I needed a new one before hand. lol, but it made sure to let me know which one it was when i turned into that parking space. I just shoved the axle back into the cup and put it in 4HI Man I love these cars. Cant do that with AWD!

GD, do you have the spec for the step?

unless they click when turning, the cv's are fine, what i meant by my little story was that the stress of winding up the drive train by turning hard on dry pavement can brake stuff and shouldn't be done. As long as it disengages, I would ignore the crap out of it personally. wait, I already ignore the crap out of it. Mine clunks just about every time I disengage. (184k mi stock d/r 5spd)

my d/r does it, especially if I turn right before i disengage. I learned my lesson about 4wd on pavement when my trans and diff played "you are the weakest link" with my axles. The passenger front lost. Then exploded, literally. Right in the middle of the tax office parking lot. sounded like a grenade.

+1 Head Gaskets Neverending bubbles in the radiator with the cap off are a good "laymans" sign of Head gaskets being blown. but not ALWAYS detectable.

thats like trying to charge 100 to do both lower ball joints.

I used to tie mine with a shoelace. LOL. It does rock when you need in, just to slip your pocket knife in there and unlock the caddy corner door with a broom handle, but my A/C worked If I only still had my hatch :-\ That aluminum is SEXAY

i freakin love that car!

Pull the carpet out one night when the weather man says no rain for the next day, get up in the morning, take it to a car wash and pressure wash it, tie it to the roof for the drive home. let it sit in the sun over a pivot point so any excess water can run off (I usually shop vac for good measure) and it should be dry by sun down. If you want to make a real trick out of it, get some carpet and upholstery paint and make it new looking again. Done this dozens of times with flipper cars. also, don't forget to flip it over so the insulation can dry too. and this method will remove anything except for rust stains, but those paint over

It needs a sticky to the top! and a "bestest thread evar" commendation. seriously though, it needs to be stickied. also, did the final install on my stereo. its a short bodied CD-less digital media reciever. here is a pic installed. also added an amp and 2 crappy 10's. That car is a rolling enclosure. Open the hatch, sucks. close the hatch, AWESOME. here is the link for the stereo. Its hella good for the price http://www.amazon.com/Dual-XR4110-Mechless-Digital-Receiver/dp/B002OR0HWI

Checked the FPR. No leaking fuel. Seems good, I pinched the inlet and outlet with pliars (increase and decrease fuel pressure) and it did not run any better. On a positive note, if I let it cool down, It will run just fine again. I came back to it after lunch and it ran like a champ. It really seems to be electrical or spark related. I am stumped.

I will check the FPR. Its an 88 GL wagon 5spd d/r with a fresh 80k '86 motor in it. completely resealed. the car was down for 7 months. so i hope the sit didn't break it...

Here is my GL. Just put a "new" motor in. I drove it to work today, did just fine. Went to lunch, and dammit if it didn't die pulling into wendy's parking lot. It won't restart. It will crank, and even fire up for an instant. then die. this is redonkulous. I am infuriated at it. The fuel pump is cycling more than normal. like every 2 seconds, but it's getting gas, when it jiccs out, I smell hella rich exhaust, almost as potent as lighter fluid. could it be my coil? could it be my fpr? coil is 1988 stock, FPR is autozone special just last year. here is a video of it doin its thing... lol http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SfWX7T99kPw

if you removed the disty, I would start there.

oooooh squishy leather!!! I like!!

+1 set the timing!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gggctwsf-wM :grin::grin:speaks for itself :grin: although it does have a stripped exhaust stud hole. came like that.

thanks for the help and reassurance. I didn't buy them so that was beginning to worry me. Right now, It is clean and on the stand in my living room with all new external seals, and timing belts, ready to drop in. I am gonna drop it saturday and hope for the best. I have faith that there won't be any major problems and you confirmed that for me. Once again, Thanks GD