Nug

The OP didn't mention extreme driving conditions. Just tooling around with a car equipped with a turbo doesn't mean the oil is going to coke into a lump of coal. The owners manual doesn't call for synthetic. If you are actually driving it agressively, then i agree.

Electric fans are more efficient than thermostatic clutch fans any day of the week.

I know.

Well, that blows. I've heard that no-compression fast cranking sound so many times it's like I have radar.

As long as it's name brand and it's changed at regular intervals, it doesn't matter.

I've got some $8 bearings coming from partsamerica.com as we speak. I'll know by the end of the week unless sheer laziness overcomes me. They are made by SKF which I have used in other applications without issue. As good as OEM? Hope so, no idea.

The only problem I have with coasting with the engine off is that you lose power brakes and steering, if equipped. Not to mention you can accidently lock the steering wheel (this is a great sensation). Finally, it's illegal in some areas. BTW the air pressure in my Tacoma's tires are all the way up to 50psi for the same reasons listed above.

Brass hammer. I bought one out of Harbor Freight for $5. Great investment. You can wail away on axles and suspension parts without damaging them. I used it in the above photo.

You need to replace the hub and brake drum, and possibly the bearings. If it was run loose for any time, then everything is wallowed out and will move around, no matter how tight the bolt. Me in a HOJO parking lot for the same reason:

Before coughing up that much dough, place a wanted ad in the Marketplace.

Did you test drive it before you paid for it? Buyer Beware.

If it sounds like it's turning over really fast, or unevenly, or similar, I'd strongly suspect the timing belt. You have fuel and spark, the only thing left is the engine.

Here's how to test for a clogged converter (will not work on turbo cars unless boost is somehow removed). Connect a vacuum gauge to manifold vacuum port. Start engine. Vacuum should be in normal range, 17-22 (approx) inches. Rev engine to 2000 rpm. If converter is clogged, vacuum will drop several numbers and not recover. If converter is ok, when you hit the throttle vacuum will drop momentarily, but the return to the normal range.

I have used SKF bearings in other applications without issue. I think I'll pick up a set. Alleyboy: This car has 167k on it, and I believe many of them were abusive. No premature wear, I think.

Why the huge price range here? Anyone use the $8 ones? The BABE Rally Subaru is for sale. A coworker is buying it, it needs a bit of attention. http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductList.aspx?parttype=184&ptset=A&searchfor=Wheel+Bearing%2c+Front

I have had vent tubes in different automatic transmissions get clogged with insect nests or whatever, and it can make fluid leveling very difficult. Also, you didn't try to fill the differential, did you? There are two different dipsticks on the transmission, one takes gear oil, and the other ATF.

Someone post a pic of Daeron's car.

I have no idea if this has anything to do with it, but it was my understanding that the turbo was the original one with the car, and it's the base engine that was replaced. So the turbo has a quarter million on it. Although it sounds like others are working on a solution, so that's good.

Hey, I loved mine too. But I drove it to MA and back, and she (Julia) drank 12 quarts of 60 weight. The Lucas alternator died twice. The second time I took out the smog pump and replaced it with a Delco-Remy off of an 80's Chevrolet. It was cheaper to buy an MSD-6A than it was to replace the stock ignition amplifier. The rear bearings were shot, and when I took the hubs apart to replace the bearings, I found they were cracked. Hours TIG welding later... Starter relay did a great impression of an arc welder in a McDonald's drive through. It died in the middle of a car show in front of a thousand teenagers. I had to push it while my girlfriend tried to be invisible, amist the jeering. I had to hotwire it with speaker wire that time. Oh, and it was a faded metallic brown. Something something polishing a turd. I loved it though. Only car I ever named.

I'd be willing to bet it's the seal and not the o-ring.

Having the timing off certainly would hurt the SPFI cars. It would affect all of them, for that matter. You can get it to pass. Check the timing, make sure it's running on all cylinders, and if all else fails, do the denatured alcohol thing. It won't hurt anything as long as you don't let it sit in there for weeks. Pour it into a nearly empty tank, drive it to the tester, get your good car award, drive it around till it's nearly out, and refuel. Problem solved.

Drive through a field for a side salad and garnish. A nice meal is nothing without presentation.

Anyone have a series II or III Jaguar XJ6 they wanna sell for under $250? God knows that's all they're worth. I can be comfortable while waiting for the tow truck.

The route is something like Staten Island to Harrisonburg VA, to Asheville NC, to Gadsden Al, to New Orleans. I'm assuming the dates will be the same: May 24-28. Illinois isn't too far away. heck, all the roads are flat. You don't even need to steer.

West Coast peeps: One team drove a Gremlin with a cracked block from western Wyoming. You don't have an excuse.