Nug

I love when previous owners only replace 1 strut. Makes handling sooo exciting.

Virginia inspection guidelines state that there should not be any holes in the cab area. Don't want CO coming in. Yeah, i realize the carpet probably negates that. Wirefeed is the BEST for thin sheetmetal. Flux-core gasless welding, not so much. I used a cheap, gasless wirefeed to fix Miles Fox's Trashwagon. Sorry miles, but that thing was a heinous crapbox. I could weld for 15 seconds before i would trip its circuit breaker. It had around a 10% duty cycle, which means it had a 10:60 use/rest ratio. For every 60 seconds of time, only ten of them can be used for welding. The other 50 for cooling off (or something like that). You would be wasting your money. Or you could go to Tractor Supply and drop about $650 on a Hobart 130 amp 110v welder that uses sheilding gas, weld 99% of the stuff you'd ever come across, and it would last for at least ten years. My Miller 130 XP is over 12 years old. I've never replaced the liner in the lead, and I had to pay $250 to get it's circuit board replaced once (remove the ground clamp from the work when not in use. Some of these are sensitive to transient voltage). Well worth the $980 I paid for it when I was 16. My Miller is compareable to the Hobart mentioed above.

The right rear shock tower is 99% rusted through. 1/8" piece still holding. The area on the wheel tub where it's tack welded is quickly being cracked. In a week, the shock will be sticking up through the bed. The plan is to remove the shock, drill out all of the spotwelds, remove the shock tower from the body and frame, and recreate the whole thing on a bench. Clamp to body, weld new one on. Patch hole in bed. Depending on how difficult that is, we may preemptively do the same thing to the other side. We still need to manufacture new subframe connectors for both sides.

Maybe

Part of the problem is there is a subframe connector under there (outside) that traps dirt and water. There is a drain, but it clogs. The moisture sits on the metal until it rusts through, then it soaks the insulation on the floor and it never dries. Also, I'm not convinced the seam sealer they used is very good. Finally, the undercoating, when compromised, holds moisture against the metal just like the wet insulation inside.

Welded up most of the driver's side tonight. PBR in cans is inferior to bottles.

Mmm. Crispy.

Photobucket blocked, sorry.

Your avatar kicks rump roast.

Fixed! I'm hot.

Blocked at work. Loading to USMB photo albums.

What part of "villagephotos is under attack" do you people not understand? And Mikldom, I have no problem with that at all. Being "the man" is debateable, but I can weld fairly well.

You are welcome to come down at any time and use it, of course.

Virginia State Inspection laws are kind of strict. My buddy Robby was warned that his Brat would not pass unless some of his rust spots were fixed. This is the $210 Brat, which you can easily search about and read that whole saga. Dat's my boyyyyyy Oh. Ungh. ewww. Barf. Behind the passenger seat. Good place to start. A weld weld here... And a weld weld there... *Glug* Cuttin some stock Here a weld, there a weld, Everywhere a weld weld. Cold galvanizing compound dug out of the hazmat bin at work. A mouse-chewed superhighway. Me with a broken finger, having welded for an hour. I'm trying to flip off those of you that think welding (or owning a welder) is out of your realm. The end.

Cars:rodents=humans:crabs

Get on eBay and hunt down a starter contact kit. My Toyota, which has a starter very similar in design to subarus, started having issues. A starter was very expensive. The $20 kit, which replaced all contacts and plungers and stuff, was not.

Oops... Anyway, I'd get a set of Bendix or Raybestos OEM quality replacements and go from there.

Go to the section here where people sell stuff. You can get another distributor for $35 or thereabouts.

If you want unique, you could plop an ej22 in there, take the fuel injection off, and hang a pair of Weber 48ida's on there like the VW guys do.

If it is a rod knock, then it can be isolated by pulling one spark plug wire at a time when the engine is running.

The blower motor relay could be sticking. I had one do this. It's above the fuse box somewhere. Hit it with something, it may come on.

Tach needle jumping is indicative of the pickup in the distributor failing (I believe).

Don't worry. It'll buff right out.

It would take one minute to rule it out.

The rotor in the distributor is held on by a setscrew...which has the annoying tendency to back out and do crazy shyte before it doesn't run at all.