Nug

+1 on the trans cooler, especially if you've got any weight in the car.

*post*

Blood just lubes everything up real nice.

Don't think I haven't! Lolz

The guys at Hot Rod had been forwarded that article several times, and so they tried it on a Fairlane. Came out rather decent.

Nothing leaks, it's much quieter. Good times.

I'm sure some of you know this already, but if you remove the radiator and y-pipe, you can move the engine forward enough to replace the clutch without pulling the engine or trans out. I did use an engine hoist, but that isn't really necessary. One should be able to use a floor jack to lift the engine up about two inches to get the engine mount studs out of their holes, then two people using a 2x4 and some rope can pick up the engine and slide it forward. The clincher is that I didn't remove any hoses, cables or anything. Just radiator, starter, y-pipe, engine mount nuts, and I unbolted the a/c compressor for a little more wiggle room. There is enough room available to remove the flywheel too, if you are so inclined. I just swapped out the clutch disk. The total time usage was about 3.5 hours, at a leisurely pace.

Did the throttle cable get pulled or tweaked or mangled? Did you leave a vacuum hose off? Vacuum leaks can cause high idle speeds.

I ran wal-mart 15w-40 in the BABE rally subaru.

My problem with pickleforks is that they mangle the boots. The ideal solution would be to have a tie-rod puller in each size they make. And that's too expensive. I bought that brass hammer at one of those wandering tool shows for 2.99. Great investment.

Try very hard not to break the manifold-to-head bolts off.

Exactly where the hammer is touching. One smart blow and the tie rod pops out. I swear this works. You don't need any special tools. The only thing this doesnt really work on is large pickups and HMMWV's. The steering arms are so thick they absorb the blow.

Sorry for being harsh earlier. If I was keeping the car, it would get proper seals.

That's why I didn't take a pic of the hammer on the threaded portion. That will waste the tie rod in record time. One solid blow, brass hammer or not at the area indicated, will pop the tie rod end right out.

Not only are you both wrong, but now I'm going to have to berate you both with an automotive textbook. See where the spring wraps around the sealing lip? This part faces the lubricant, like I have it installed. When the hub is installed, the seal rides on this surface. What you guys are seeing (or not seeing, more accurately,) is the lack of a dust lip on the seal installed. This seal is a bit more like the original seal. The lip on the left faces out, just like on an OEM subaru application. The main sealing lip is on the right, this faces the lubricant. My cheap rump roast $4.99 Motor City lip seal does not have the dust lip, which is what everyone is looking for. Here's a cross section of the seal I'm using. The right side of the seal is facing the oil, as per the textbook. Sorry for sounding butthurt, but i wrote this for people who might be confused about the process. I don't want them installing seals backward. Everyone attempting to replace wheel seals, get OEM-style ones. They are literally impossible to install backward, and they are infinitely higher quality. Why buy the cheap seals? The car is for sale, and it probably won't pass inspection ever again. Trying not to throw money away.

My 82 has a 3rd eye and A/C.

No, I didn't. They do look wildly different than the stock ones, though. The OEM ones are of a double lip design, and these are single lip. Will they leak? Time will tell.

Slide the center spacer over a little. Run your punch down in there and pound it out. Greasy chunks stain the floor. What the hell kind of grease is this, anyway? Buy a parts washer, everyone. Seriously. I cleaned the grease out of the new bearings, and packed them with Valvoline Synthetic. By the way, these are the $8 Partsamerica.com bearings. Find something that contacts just the outer race of the new bearing and pound it in. You can use an old bearing or a piece of a 2x4 or something similar if nothing good is available. Just don't get a pile of crap mixed in there. By the way, if your grease has dirt or hair in it, try to stick it to the side of a mailbox on your way to the auto parts store for some fresh stuff. Make sure the inner spacer isn't forgotten! Add other bearing and seal. Just taaaaaap it in. Pull the knuckle back and slide the axle in. Pry the A-arm down and slip the ball joint in. Clean the crap off of the seal surface on the back of the disk. Add backing plate and disc. Around this point, I got a metal splinter, and my wife called me in for dinner. You guys can figure out the rest. A picture of the carnage on the way out of the door. USRM anyone?

Slide the center spacer over a little. Run your punch down in there and pound it out. Greasy chunks stain the floor. What the hell kind of grease is this, anyway? Buy a parts washer, everyone. Seriously. I cleaned the grease out of the new bearings, and packed them with Valvoline Synthetic. By the way, these are the $8 Partsamerica.com bearings. Find something that contacts just the outer race of the new bearing and pound it in. You can use an old bearing or a piece of a 2x4 or something similar if nothing good is available. Just don't get a pile of crap mixed in there. By the way, if your grease has dirt or hair in it, try to stick it to the side of a mailbox on your way to the auto parts store for some fresh stuff. Make sure the inner spacer isn't forgotten! Add other bearing and seal. Just taaaaaap it in. Pull the knuckle back and slide the axle in. Pry the A-arm down and slip the ball joint in. Clean the crap off of the seal surface on the back of the disk. Add backing plate and disc. Around this point, I got a metal splinter, and my wife called me in for dinner. You guys can figure out the rest. A picture of the carnage on the way out of the door. USRM anyone?

The howling up front was only getting louder, so it's time to swap some wheel bearings. I decided to take pics. Take the nut off. 36 mm or 1 7/16, ususally. Take the caliper off and suspend it with some coat hangers so no stress is put on the brake hose. Remove the rotor. This one basically fell off. Remove backing plate. One 12mm bolt. Take the cotter pin and 17mm castellated nut off, and bash the steering arm as shown with a hammer. It'll pop right out. Brass hammer good. It takes a lot to damage what you are wailing on. Told you so. Remove the bolt that secures the lower ball joint to the steering knuckle and pry it out. It's starting to come apart. Remove the two bolts that attach the strut to the steering knuckle and tap it right off of there. And it all hits the floor. Remove seal. Remove other seal. I had to use a chisel for this one. Note the lovely rusty notes in the grease. Continued below.

The howling up front was only getting louder, so it's time to swap some wheel bearings. I decided to take pics. Take the nut off. 36 mm or 1 7/16, ususally. Take the caliper off and suspend it with some coat hangers so no stress is put on the brake hose. Remove the rotor. This one basically fell off. Remove backing plate. One 12mm bolt. Take the cotter pin and 17mm castellated nut off, and bash the steering arm as shown with a hammer. It'll pop right out. Brass hammer good. It takes a lot to damage what you are wailing on. Told you so. Remove the bolt that secures the lower ball joint to the steering knuckle and pry it out. It's starting to come apart. Remove the two bolts that attach the strut to the steering knuckle and tap it right off of there. And it all hits the floor. Remove seal. Remove other seal. I had to use a chisel for this one. Note the lovely rusty notes in the grease. Continued below.

Yes.

My question is why you were drinking mystery liquid off the floor of your car. I mean, I'm pretty gross, but that's just nasty.

Yes, even wal-mart branded oil is ok. I've run it in various things. Actually, my vw diesel uses less wal-mart 15w-40 than it does Rotella T.

I totally disagree. I've been in my fair share of engines, never seen this. Any motor oil on the market has to pass a set of ridiculously streesful tests. I've personally witnessed regular Pennzoil run one of these run twice as long as what's considered necessary, and it still passed. I've also seen some blends of Castrol do not so well. The attitude of the people that worked where I did wasn't very favorable to Castrol. They felt that Castrol cut corners when possible.