Nug

The Jeep 4.2 is capable of running 6000rpm on that carb, so the size should not be an issue. What color are your plugs? Any signs of detonation? Your fuel pump may not be keeping up, either.

Yes, it's a sign that you MIGHT need to change the head gaskets. You'll want to rule out other things first.

And then?

I suscribe to the school of thought that believes that the lifter plunger should be set in the middle of it's stroke and then left alone. Hydraulic lifter engines, of course.

A '77 may still have points ignition. Take off the magneto cover, or whichever cover houses the points, and stick a hair dryer in there for a while. Also, if your air filters are a paper element type, they will pass air about as well as a wet paper bag. That is, not at all.

I think they came in 78-79 cadillacs also. I just put one on my Triumph Spitfire.

Knurling involves twisting a special threaded tool into the guide. The tool does not have a cutting edge, so threads are not cut, but rather pressed into the guide. The result is a hole that is actually smaller in diameter than before. A reamer is then run through the hole to bring the diameter back to original specifications. Knurling can be used on a moderately worn valve guide to tighten it up. It will not bring back a substantially worn guide. Knurling does have one distinct advantage: The threads formed in the guide will carry motor oil, keeping the guide better lubricated than it was before. Sometimes new replacement guides have oil threads that already exist. These are probably the best ones. I'd say that if your valve guides are only a few thousands out of spec, then knurling them would be cost effective and a quality repair.

Yeah, I know about the swing axles. Had a dune buggy based off of a '59 Karmann Ghia. Did a somersault in that one.

The tank holds maybe 12 gallons. They are having a Rocky Mountain Run for you west coasters. OMG it's so freakin' hilarious to drive. It's so small, and Rob and I are not. Your elbow rests like halfway down the door. It's almost easier stepping over the door into and out of it than trying to get footing that close to the ground. We drove it substantially for the first time tonight. Maybe 10 miles. 4000rpm at 68 MPH. But it's suprisingly quiet inside. By the way, it has no convertible top. We are not planning on having a top during the BABE rally.

Bump. You have a little over 2 months. Get cracking!

There were holes in the fuel tank. I started brazing them all shut. It quickly became apparent that there wasn't much left in places, no matter how much was brazed. So the really bad parts have been cut out and metal from an old bookshelf welded in. I'm waiting for a can of RED KOTE tank sealer to show up. After that's done, the car will be very close to drivable. We've converted it to a Delco alternator, fixed all sorts of wiring, fixed many holes, rebuilt the carb, slapped on some new tires (Cornell 1000's from Pep Boys @ $19.99 ea.), replaced the majority of the brake hard lines, rebuilt the rear wheel cylinders, rebuilt the clutch slave cylinder, replaced broken transmission mounts, adjusted the valves, fixed oil leaks, converted it to electric cooling fan, and have driven it with a gas can strapped to the hood. It's an absolute riot.

Hi all, Last year my sister and I rode from Staten Island to New Orleans in a 1983 GL wagon that cost me $100. That car was far too reliable, so I'm taking it up (or down) a notch this year. Say hello to my '78 Triumph Spitfire. It will be piloted by me and my friend Rob this year. It cost me $250, which is the maximum price allowed for any car in this event (minus the costs to make it drivable/ safe). Notice the ground in the above pic.

I'm pretty sure it went to the knock sensor, which crumbled when I touched it. One of the wires was disconnected already when I got the car. I've never heard a ping out of it, so I've never worried about it.

I fail to see how the headlight relay has anything to do with it.

Ok, yeah that book doesn't tell me anything. Find the sticker under the hood. It should tell you what you need to do in order to adjust the timing. If you don't understand it, copy it down and type it up here.

Sounds like phosphoric acid. Reacts with rust to form iron phosphate, which is pretty durable.

The same weber 32/36 that works so well on Subarus is also magical on this engine. There should be a sticker under the hood that will tell you where the timing should be. You will probably have to disconnect/connect a wire/terminal/vacuum hose somewhere to keep the vacuum advance/ecu from interfering with the timing adjustment. Or you can set it by ear, as suggested above. Confusing enough? If I remember when I get home, I'll look in my massive Chilton's manual for a procedure.

How is this not locked yet?

In VA (and in most other states) They can fire you for any reason besides religion, skin color, or sexual orientation. Wear a pink shirt? Fired. One long distance call? Fired. Wear too much cologne? Gone. They probably ran out of money and had to think of something to blame it on. Happens all the time.

Lookin' good!

I'm in West Point. Don't currently own a Subaru, but I love them. If you need to use a welder or need a garage to do some wrenching, just drop me a message.

I highly recommend the Crane Cams digital ignition system, if you don't already have it installed. It has a provision for kick starting that makes sure the front cylinder fires first so it doesn't kill you if it backfires. Or something.

I sense an oil debate starting. Synthetic is a waste of money on these cars.

The clutch is definitely dragging. If you have to press the clutch halfway down before resistance is met, then it's not adjusted right at all, or is severely stretched. Tighten the adjuster until there is about an inch or so of freeplay.