Nug

My friends in NJ use the term "hoonery", FWIW.

Kinda thinking the ignition switch is partially fried if it will push start. Contacts melt, no actual ignition system power while engine cranks. I'd check for voltage at the coil while cranking. Or pull the coil wire and look for spark while cranking. High idle might be slightly advanced timing after replacing disty.

[thread hijack] I haven't been in an automatic in 10 years. This one is a charity case for an unemployed friend. I'm having to make tools to compress the return springs on the pistons.

Awesome. This right here is why I took the time to take pics and write it down. Maybe I'll do one on rebuilding a GM 4L60E automatic (what I'm currently rump roast-deep in). Because, you know, that'll be real helpful on a Subaru site.

Well, the shop is destroyed again. The Mini is in there, both front fenders cut off. There is a pile of 4L60E parts in a pile, and another 4L60E on my engine stand totally taken apart, with parts strewn all over a stainless steel table i dragged out of a dumpster. Now, once again, there are paths through all the rubble. There's also a rototiller in the way. Gotta yank the wheels off of that and put axle seals in it.

I'm gonna have to try this. I need to clean a fuel tank. Maybe fill it with a TSP/water solution, and run an electrode into the sender hole, and connect to my welder (on low).

Me too:-\ Luckily there's one at work I can borrow.

Pretty soon you'll be convincing yourself that you need a scopemeter.

You can do it now. The heads are clamped tightly, the last 90 is to stretch the head bolts to the right amount.

Weak + square tubing = strong.

There should be a good writeup on it in the USRM.

There's one in a junkyard near me.

It's just a splash shield. I've left them off before when they were mangled. I'd ignore it.

Get some fluorescent dye from the parts store. They have ones that dissolve in coolant, and one for oil. get the coolant one, pour it in the radiator, start it up, and look around the area with a blacklight and yellow glasses. Clean everything first. You will see exactly where it's coming from.

Once you get the hub off and rotor off, the axle *may* just slide out of the diff. It's been a while.

I'd reconsider tightening the belts that much. Seems to me you still might be off a tooth on the disty if you have to turn it all the way to get it to run.

Do what Gloyale said first. *Edit* Nevermind, you did. Just order timing belts for any 80's subaru. They're all the same. Check the idler pulleys and make sure they are perfect, or just replace them.

Wiggle the ignition switch then check for voltage. They often melt down.

You know how to tell who your friends are? When he comes over on his day off and helps you clean the entirety of your shop. Clutter begone! In other news, project #125347 has been pushed into the shop for major rust/mechanical/accident damage repair. Very similar to this one

Grandpa pretty religiously oiled the thing, and kept it pretty clean. He also worked at a slow but steady pace. The only time I ever saw it turn fast was when he was demonstrating the higher gears. He'd essentially chuck a piece of cured firewood in there and make something out of it. Not something you'd want flying off of there at 1200rpm.

My buddy is coming over today to help me clean up (he uses the place too sometimes), and I'm gonna try and get him to help me make a lumber rack to get a ridiculous pile of boards off of my parts washer.

It looks similar to this one, except it has the stepped pulleys in the headstock, with a 4 speed transmission permanently belted to the large pulley, with a 220v electric motor on top of that. It's like 6 ft. tall, lol.

Around 3.5-4 feet. It was mostly used for making wooden lamps when grandpa had it, but he did turn some metal, smaller stuff. Hopefully the v's are in good shape, I know there's a little play in the cross slide (whatever it's called) which hopefully can be adjusted out. I have to do some major reorganization to fit it in my shop.

She doesn't have much of a swing, maybe 12 inches, but the thing is enormously burly. Probably weighs 3000 pounds.

Once you learn how to do a voltage drop test, you can tell definitively whether or not it's the battery, the starter, or the cables giving you a no-crank condition. This is one of many example of what a meter is good for.