Nug

These have great towing capacity.

You pull a lever up. Almost as easy as pushing a button.

Shield missing. I cut out a piece of cardboard and slid it in front of the carb to keep air from blowing directly on it. Still no snorkel tube. I test drove it last night. When it's about 25 or less outside (especially), it feels like it's starving for fuel. Pressing the gas results in more noise, but not power. Continued high throttle demand causes misfiring and noticeable power loss. I think he'll break down and buy the tube, some fuel filters, and some ignition tune up stuff, it's been a while.

All cars are capable of doing this.

Walnut-hull blasting.

Snorkel hose nonexistant. Will update later.

It's a Hitachi. I believe the sheild is there, but i'd have to look.

I know the two are exclusive. I just threw that in there for the inevitable "teh yuor gas line iz frozen !1" comment. I'll have to look at the snorkle and stuff. Is this a fairly common problem with soobs?

I've never seen any evidence of it. He's run enough Drygas through it to kill a horse.

This is a strong possibility.

My friend has a brat. It runs great when it's warm/hot/cool. When it dips below freezing is when the trouble starts. First of all, the car starts easily. It might take some babysitting on a really cold morning to tap the gas pedal, but cold starts are not an issue. You can head out, and drive for 10/15/20 minutes without incident, then the car will start to hesistate really bad, then it will die. 15 minutes later, it will restart, and you can continue on. It may do it a couple of times. I can't for the life of me get him to check to see if the damn thing has spark during these episodes. Granted, I've never seen an ignition module failure during cold weather, but i'm willing to keep an open mind. He seems to think it's strictly carb related, but I've pulled the air filter during an episode, thinking it was heinously flooding itself, choke plate stuck shut, but that's not it. Fuelfilters have been changed. Thinking we may have to check fuel pump output. It acts like fuel starvation, but he has reported a strong gas smell, like flooding.

I MSpainted a pic of an LSD molecule wearing a pink bikini (to cover it's naughty bits), but then removed it. I disagree with the desicion made, I think it's nonsensical, but whatever.

I'm suddenly very jealous.

I had two truck batteries blow up in my face. I was wearing a new pair of jeans. The jeans and my shirt dissolved when I washed them later.

They are supposed to be very good for a regular ol' passenger car tire.

just leave it out.

Removing cats is for people who can't keep their cars in tune. I used to think, "It's robbing horsepower. It's useless to me!" Then I learned that if you keep your car in proper operating condition, you never have a problem.

I think old subarus activlely search out "financially challenged" people. Or at least "cost conscious" folks. I've fit in both camps. We finished covering the hole in the bed behind the shocktower. Welded in a new subframe connector. Fixed the other subframe connector. Will take it in to inspection Monday morning. Hope they don't notice the gaping hole on the right moustache bar mount, or the crunchy frame bit up front. No pics. I was getting pissed after having molten metal drip on my neck about five times. Even had a bit stick to my eyelid. That sucked royally.

I mostly meant that I've been doing all of this with a broken finger. Believe me, I've done a ton of stuff in gravel driveways with it raining or freezing. Swapped transmissions, swapped engines.

Repaired the old shock tower at work. Used a plasma cutter to remove rusted sections, then welded in new metal a section at a time. Used flat stock bent to shape in a vise, and angle iron cut in different shapes. Used bolts to hold in place. Drilled through old holes in tower, welded all the way through the hole. Self tapping screws were used to locate everything and hold it on snugly, then each screw was removed and the different layers welded together. Probably around 20 of these holes welded together. Tomorrow, we'll cover the hole in the bed, weld on a new subframe connector that Robby made, then repair the other connector that isn't nearly as bad. I'm happy with the way it's going.

Dieseling can be caused by overheating, advanced ignition timing, glowing carbon in combustion chamber, and most commonly, idle speed too high. Does it idle around 800-900 rpm? It should. Hesitating at WOT is can be caused by fuel starvation. Check fuel filters, fuel pump output, float level.

Decided that it would be easier to fix the shock tower if it were removed. It had rusted in two. Put a jack under the top part of the mount, pressed it back to where it was supposed to be, welded on some temporary supports, thed drilled out the spotwelds. I'll try to rebuild the tower at work, or at least get some good metal from there.

No brat today. Something much worse. Say hello to my little friend, the BABE Rally 2008 Triumph Spitfire. I'm just trying to keep it from collapsing on it self at this point.

http://cgi.ebay.com/MILLERMATIC-140-907335-MIG-WELDER-WELD-110V-NEW_W0QQitemZ230197292559QQihZ013QQcategoryZ113743QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Buy me! Free shipping!

50% duty cycle is quite reasonable, actually. I wonder how the TSC brand stacks up against the USA ones; Hobart, Miller, Lincoln. I'd like to be able to recommend them, but I know nothing of them. I've used flux core wire in my machine before. It's really disappointing to have to clean the slag off afterwards. Ruins the mood.