Nug

That last bike is quite tastey.

Currently I own: 1997 Toyota Tacoma 4x4 1981 Vw Dasher diesel (the DD) 1978 Triumph Spitfire ('08 BABE Rally contender) 1991 Mini Cooper (German Market car, awaiting restoration) 1972 Honda CB450 1974 Suzuki TM-250 2004 (or 2005) Honda XR400R No Subarus, oddly enough.

VW Beetles are a fantastic exercise in styling, in my opinion.

Ttiwwop. There you go.

I love when that happens.

Sounds like it's wasted. Pull the belts off first to make sure you didn't have an accessory seize up. This is fairly common.

There aren't any marks on the auxiliary shaft. Take the distributor cap off and turn the aux shaft until the rotor points at number 1 terminal. That's it.

Fix it yet?

I liked it better before. It's still cool though.

Typically, ATF will foam if its overfilled.

I would not have a problem if fluid turns orange. I would if it was dark or cloudy. If it shifts fine, then I wouldn't worry about it too much. I'd change it after I bought it, to be sure. You're Jared, arent you? I met you on the Babe Rally. I was in the flamingo subaru.

After you connect the bulb like Skip suggests, the bulb may light up. If it does, you have a current draw. Disconnect fuses one at a time until the light goes out. This is the circuit that has a short. You should also disconnect the alternator. It is possible that one of the diodes has gone bad, causing a current leak. I have seen radios cause significant problems, too. They always pull a little current for memory, but sometimes they have serious issues.

I agree with the notion that it deserves a second glance.

They are very simple. If you don't have a Haynes manual, you should get one. But instead of lecturing you about that, I'm going to copy a portion straight out of a Chilton's. 1. Remove timing belt outer cover. 2. If the belt timing is incorrect, loosen the belt tensioner adjustment screw.Place camshaft belt tension adjusting tool T74P-6254-A on the tension spring rollpin and retract the belt tensioner. Tighten the adjustment screw to hold the tensioner in the retracted position. 3. Remove the crankshaft pulley and belt guide. 4. Position the crankshaft and the camshaftsprokets so that the timing marks index with the timing pointers. 5. Remove the distributor cap and set the distributor rotor to the number 1 firing position by turning the auxiliary shaft. 6. Install the timing belt over the crankshaft sproket and the counter clockwise over the auxiliary and camshaft sprockets. 7. Loosen the tensioner adjustment bolt and allow the tensioner to move against the belt. To ensure the belt does not jump time during rotation, remove the spark plugs. 8. Rotate the crankshaft two complete turns in normal rotation to remove the slack from the belt.Tighten the tensioner adjustment and pivot bolts to specifications. The special tool in numer 2 is unneccesary. Find a way to compress the tensioner then lock it in place by tightening the bolt. The crank pulley has to come off to see the sprocket. There are obvious marks in the sprockets and the timing pointers should be, too. Lining up the rotor to the #1 plug wire is very important. Most important, actually verify that the belt has skipped time before you remove it. If it has, replace it and inspect the idler pulley.

I think it's "tertiary". I'm sure you all care.

I don't know if I'd want to hack up a '67. They were the last of the old school ones, and pretty unique. Unless it's a rusted out ****box, then it's game. I've got new projects, like a '91 german market Mini Cooper. Needs rust and accident damage repair.

It was soo dangerous...

3.5 year bump. And it's gone. I just sold it to a soldier who is headed back to Iraq next year. He plans on taking it to Italy with him. Big plans. Air ride suspension, nice interior, repaint. He loves an EJ22. He also had his wife and four toddlers with him. I feel bad for his whole family. Paradoxical: The worse I feel about his situation, the less I miss the car. Enough waxing nostalgic. I'd like to thank Legacy 777, Setright, Legacycentral.org, and whoever else had a part in it. I appreciate it. Eric

I'm a huge fan of the 2.2. I'm also impressed with the safety of the legacy wagons. I'd go Legacy.

I've had good luck with them at home and at work. Any tire that can hold up to fleet use and still have good driving performance is a winner in my book.

I don't give a rat's rump roast about my post count. I was giving the ol' Nelson because I've been there. You'll live, get over it.

I'm pretty sure it does, just to confirm. Dem wheels look good.

Just because you hear relays clicking doesn't mean they are good. Power at the pump needs to be checked while cranking. +1 on checking timing belt. Pop the distributor cap off and crank it for a second while someone watches. If this is the problem, It'll drive you crazy until you confirm it.

I can't think of a reason why it won't, especially if you still have the old engine and all the stuff that was on it. You are just dropping another engine in it, right?