Nug

Oh, it happens. My g/f had coolant leaking into the #1 cylinder on her VW cabriolet. Closer inspection revealed that corrosion worked its way around the head gasket and into the combustion chamber. The h/g wasn't actually blown. Milling the head ($40) fixed that problem permanently. You guys replacing h/gaskets...do you check for head warpage? Also, it is my understanding that a freshly milled surface helps retain the gasket better than one that has been sanded, scotchbrited, or scraped. Comments?

As long as you can throw a nice, blue spark about a quarter inch in length, you can consider the ignition ok. Sure you have the plug wires in the right order? If you are fouling the plugs trying to start it, I assume it is getting gas. My bet would be ignition related some way. I think you need to determine decisively that there is sufficient spark and that the plugs are in the right order AND you have the ignition timing somewhere in the ballpark.

Check the function of the EGR valve. Make sure it isn't plugged w/carbon and that vacuum gets to it.

http://www.bankspower.com/sidewinder-dragrace.cfm

Any exhaust leak before the turbo will reduce your boost, often dramatically.

My two cent... Diesels CAN haul rump roast. Banks took a dodge pickup with a heavily modified cummins 5.9 to the flats and went 200mph. Also, there was a truck somewhere they were running on the track, dual wheels, twin turbo detroit 2-stroke, running twelves, hanging the hoops to the sixty foot mark... And has anyone been to a tractor pull recently? Saw some 80 year old guy take an International turbo diesel farm tractor (145hp), modifiy it slightly (600-700, who knows) and pull a 12,500 sled past 300 foot. I don't know how high he was revving this thing, but it sounded at least like 6000rpm.

There are many different cars that have lights come on w/ timers. I'm reminded of 80's Dodge pickups, a Geo Tracker, and the O2 sensor light in my Jag goes out with the touch of a button (which is located in the trunk, along with the computer).

Meeky, riding in the back of a truck in VA IS illegal. I think you can get a reckless driving ticket for it.

Well, if the turbo seals go out, it can pump oil into the intake. But try the inexpensive stuff first.

$421 for a cartridge from turbo city. They are proud of their products. Off to the junkyard I go.

It's a little bumpy out here.

Rebuild kit is $125 from Turbo City, If you want to attempt it. You NEED a ridiculously thin pair of snap ring pliers to get 4 snap rings out. Also, there are some allen or torx screws (don't remember) that are loctited in there, try not to gouge them up, or they will never come out. Unless you have a tig welder. Kit comes w/ new hydrodynamic bushings, snap rings, trust plates, metallic seals, some other dohickies, and new little bolts to replace the ones you will probably destroy. Index the compressor wheel to the shaft, and she will work. Did this for an Xt turbocharger that eventually ended up on a *ahem* Honda. BTW it still leaked cuz the cartridge was worn out, no amout of rebuilding could have fixed that. But it made 15 psi. $0.02, Eric

Moose lap dance:-) That was a good one!

Look, they're all puking in unison. Sorry for the thread hijack.

Hey, I stole the little barfing guy first! I think.

$240 ain't THAT bad, but paying a mechanic sux anyway.

When regular gas is used from a name brand station (Amoco BP, Mobil, Chevron) and to an extent Texaco, shell, and exxon, you are getting a reasonable quality gasoline. The first three in this list are the best quality IMO. The Lucky Texan mentioned Ethyl, I worked for them a few years ago running some of the Fuel tests and learned a bunch of stuff about gasoline.

So what was the final diagnosis?

My g/f was putting the finishing touches on a head swap on her VW cabriolet and I had the uncontrollable urge to molest her while she was still under the car. Hottie blonde all greasy? (Insert H Simpson doughnut sound effects here) Yeah, make Tim finish the grass.

Hey, that's what the board is for, right?

Two truck batteries blew up in my face. Destroyed a perfectly good pair of Levi's. BTW I guess these stories are better left unsaid until AFTER you get it running.

I hate lawnmowers.

I was driving myself to the hospital (!) one night and stopped to help a guy whose car was on fire. He asked How much longer it would be 'fore it blew up, he had his laptop still in the back. I said about two minutes. He got his laptop out and about 2 min later, fire made its way through the firewall. Then the A/C hosees blew up. Then the FD got there, so I continued to Mary Washington's.

Well, you've got a good connection, obviously. The battery is just really undercharged and is pulling some amperage from the charger. Give it a few minutes and try to crank it with the charger attached. You won't hurt the charger, they all have overload protection and will turn themselves off if they are asked too much. You should see the needle move back toward the lower end of the scale in a few minutes. DONT pull the clamps off the battery with the charger still plugged in. You don't need any sparks around a charging battery.

Make sure the charger is on twelve volts, 7-10 amp charge, half an hour should be fine.