Nug

I'm not so sure it's even dirt that does it. I think the rubber itself wears the metal away over time.

Sometimes the impeller comes right off the pump. So both hoses are hot, but no flow is actually taking place.

My ex-wife said she swerved to miss a deer, but instead she was looking for a CD. Bashed up a cherry VW beetle. Anyway, I have never met you, but I already trust you and your son's driving ability more than her. Hope the car straightens out ok, they really are excellent vehicles.

Oh hell yeah. I rebuilt one once, and I adjusted something in the governor wrong, and when I started it, it went wide open. I panicked, cut the fuel off at the tank, calmed down, then realised what I had done. I had to crawl on top of this screaming engine and loosen this locknut and back a screw out, and she shut off. This was in an armored personnel carrier, luckily I had left the transfer case disengaged, so the big suction fan's belts weren't turning. You gain a lot of respect for them after that. After that incident, I considered it broken in:headbang:

Someone with an EA turbo needs to try this out. Good for keeping piston temps down.

Cherry bomb-"when you need a muffler so you can pass inspection". Sweet.

wonder if they could be adapted for use on the older EA engines. Another solution, which I mentioned in another post (old gen forum), is to rifle-drill the con rods and have oil squit from the top of the connecting rod, like a detroit-diesel two stroke. Now that's a pesky engine! But not for it's cool connecting rods.

Back on the seals, one common (dirty) mech trick is to install a new seal, but don't drive it in quite all the way. This way, you have a new piece of crank to wear against. RTV, permatex, or loctite on outer perimeter of seal made sure it stayed put, and didn't leak. I only do this on a steel-backed seal (like wheel bearing seals, or american car crank seals). Ones that have the steel fully encased w/ rubber-don't know if it would work, unless you had something awesome to glue it in place.

I s___ you not, I saw a zip-tie wear through stainless steel braiding on some aircraft-quality stainless steel line. Engine dyno stand...engine would be running for days on end, stainless lines plugged in everywhere, and a zip tie with it's tail hanging out, vibrating against a SS line. Wore right through it. I swear this is true.

Yes, Mobil 1 has synthetic ATF. I use it in manual trans that call for ATF, I think it shifts smoother. I don't even know where to find dextron II. You can still buy it? I just throw Dextron III into everything, and haven't had a problem. How about this? The Jag calls for type G. It's not even made anymore. There is dextron III in it right now, but im gonna have it flushed out and type F put in it (for its high friction coefficient). And I put type F in a freshly rebuilt turbo 350 for the same reason. No problems there, either.

The jets are located on the main bearing webs. Now that's cool. What could be used as a nozzle for an EA series engine?

I know the 4 lug vw to five lug chevy are crap. I don't know who makes them, but they have a guy asleep at the wheel. They did allow me to put 33's onto the back of a Baja one time, though.

Anybody? C'mon, someone knows.

I know where there is a Legacy wagon w/ a 2.2 with some torque bind and a cheap price that I may have to score on. I love problems that baffle and scare people.

Balancing reduces friction and its associated energy loss, reduces wear, and reduces stress on just about everything. And it really isn't that expensive. Just get all the parts you plan to use and dump them at the machine shop, and reap the benefits. Maybe upgrade to some ARP fasteners while you are at it. Like rod and head bolts, especially. Take a die grinder and remove all of the casting flash from inside the engine block. It removes stress risers and helps oil drain back to the pan faster. You can polish your rods (snicker) to reduce stress in those, and then shot-peen them or have 'em cryo'd.

And a shameless one at that.

Bump Maybe just a digidash thing?

145K? She's just broke in! How mechanically inclined are you? Got some tools? The scope of this project might seem overwhelming, but isn't impossible for a "newbie" to accomplish. And it'd be a lot cheaper. If the car's not all ragged out, then I would fix it, no doubt.

Do any of the new-gen turbo engines have piston cooling nozzles? Where do they get their oil from and how are they mounted, if they got em?

If that's the case, than maybe the EA81-82 has an oil gallery handy to plumb into. But trying to get a piss tube to squirt into the right area without vibrating/breaking off and turning everything into cat food would take some fabrication skill. And a couple guniea pig shortblocks. I like a good excuse to confound my machinist.

With the engine running, air is gonna suck that fuel in and it's gonna go where it needs to, as long as whatever you're planning doesn't have many sharp turns (I'm having trouble turning the pictures and voices in my head into readable sentences right now, so I'll leave it to someone else).

The EGR valve isn't bad from that. All the ports in the intake and in the valve have to be clear. This doesn't sound like an EGR problem to me. I'd check your timing and basic tuneup stuff first. The reverse thing you mentioned kind of sounds a little like the float setting in the carb could be off, but that's mostly speculation.

Well, a thermostatic fan is hard to beat. But an electric looks cooler. And now you have room for an intercooler:)

wongleflute Landy makes a blower kit for VeeDubs that is basically a shortened 6-71. Figure out a pulley drive, and suddenly your soob would be able to support a Holley 4-bbl! Of course there are the judsons, but you'd be hard off trying to find a complete one, as they haven't been made for years...

What about CCR?