Nug

I've been around a tractor or two, and it's odd. They can pull any damn thing, they got a hella ring and pinion in there, and they run plain jane hydraulic oil. Weird. One other note. Big Rig trannies. Like the big 13 speed deals. They don't run gear oil, either. Some use R+O oils. You might go down to a truckstop and see what they got for transmissions, if memory serves me correct, some might be synthetic, and are pretty low viscosity. I neither recommend nor condone the use of these oils.

There's no limit on NOx? Sweet! Ok. Change your oil. Put a new air filter on it. Crank the timing up 5-6 degrees. Or more. Stop before it pings, well a little is ok for our puposes. Is the gas tank about a quarter full? Pour about 8 bottles of DRYGAS in there. Changing oil removes fuel contaminated oil that the PCV is huffing. Clean air filter= more air. Timing increase gets fuel burning earlier so HC and CO go down. Alcohol removes HC from equation, also lowering CO numbers. Sorry, premium wasn't a good choice. It is slower burning, so HC and CO can go up. Sorry for the choppy english. I get excited when I think about fooling "The Man".

Like, how bad? Gimmee some numbers.

http://www.finleyweb.net/default.asp?id=142 I'm downloading it now, service manuals for EA81, 82 and 90-94 legacy.

Where did you put your radiator? Mine's up front, laying over the hole where the gas tank used to be. The gas tank is up against the firewall, on custom angle iron brackets. Engine wiring harness-I bid on an engine on ebay from a guy that was parting one out. Lost the bid, but contacted the guy and told him if he got the whole harness out without cutting anything, to name his price. Got it for $50. Highly reccomend getting engine/ecu/harness from same car, at least same year and transmission. I have not followed this advice. One year difference between engine and harness, and ecu/harness came from different trasmissioned cars (look, I invented a word!) Let's just say there were a few minor discrepancies. Factory service manuals are a lifesaver. Wiring the engine up, off and on, took a month. Won't know if it's right until I start it.

I've taken a vacuum cleaner and put it on "blow" and let it blow in there for hours. The heat from the motor and the airflow do a good job of evaporating all the gas and purging vapors. Then you can fill it almost full of water and weld her rump roast up. Or take it to a radiator shop. Or go to a junkyard and haggle for another.

I forget the manufacturer, but there is a common "block sealer" out there that you are supposed to put in , run, drain, and let sit for 24 hours to dry. It's supposed to seal everything. Might give that a shot.

Porsche 356 huh? My dad had one of them, he loved that car. It rusted so badly that he had eye bolts in the rocker panels, with cables running across the bottom of the car, holding the floor up. I'm going to assume that the rump roast end of the porsche is the same width of a vw. Engine bay, anyway. BTW, did you get the list of engines from kennedy? And did some studying? Just wondering. Here are my thoughts: EA81 is small, light, doesn't have timing belts, and is weak without several modificatons. It would fit in the engine bay and is recommended by Kennedy (cuz it's easy). EA82 is too damn wide, has timing belts, can be fuel injected (SPFI) and is easy to wire up. More powerful stock than EA81. Not reccomended By Kennedy and myself because the engine adapter has no provision for checking ignition or cam (timing belt) timing. EJ22 is powerful, reliable, fits perfectly in a VW engine bay, is a total b*tch to wire up, and is finicky getting the air bled out of the cooling system. I have one in a '74 Beetle. Not running yet, waiting for one sensor. And the oil pan probably will have to be shortened for ground clearance. Other EJ engines (1.8, 2.0, 2.5) would be similar to the 22. 2.5's sometimes blow head gaskets. 1.8 not as powerful. Any of these would rock with a turbo, might be some packaging difficulties (turbo) getting these to fit. Mazda RX7 is sweet, runs hot, might be a time bomb, probably real fun, no size issues, expensive, and soounds cool. Bored and stroked VW is another time bomb if built with cheap parts and too much compression. Reccomend a high rpm, low compression stroker with 2 dual carbs. Porsche 911, well, good luck finding one that doesn't need an expensive rebuild. Small domestic V6's have loads of torque and would be a blast to drive and inexpensive to maintain. Probably harder to fit in there. Could handle a fair amount of N20 without much drama. I thought hard about what I wanted in there. Went with the subaru EJ22 because my parents have one in a legacy wagon and that's a very drivable car. And I wanted multiport fuel injection. I'm tired of carbs. Good Luck, Eric

And there is absolutely nothing wrong with federal mogul parts.

Well, it's too late for THAT:)

I'm currently working on a series of my own. "This is what happens when you drive a 17 year old luxury car with no compression or oil pressure, with 300lbs of ballast in the trunk". I'll keep everyone informed. I doubt anyone cares.

Theoretically, yes. But generally when something drops down in the cylinder, the piston smashes it into the head, and it becomes part of the head or piston. I have a piston out of a HMMWV with a glow plug tip bashed into it. Shavings, chips, etc. I wouldn't worry too much about, but the less you get in there, the less i'd worry. Got compressed air? i'd blast it in for a while when I was done just to make sure.

I prefer the steel sleeves, but anything is better than what you have now Make an effort to keep the chips out of the engine. I do this by grasing the flutes of the tap. You can clean the threads with brake cleaner, I guess. Back the piston off. You don't want the top gouged bt the tap. If you get chips in the cylinder, maybe rototate the engine until the exhaust valve is open (maybe start right here) and you can blow compressed air in there and blow the chips out. Good luck!

Is your jag not good in snow, or are you babying it? Cuz I used mine to pull a thunderbird out of a mud hole, and then i did donuts. In the snow. It loves snow.

I know the Boys of Pep has it. It's in a yellow package w/red lettering. All-Pro has it too, and I can't imagine Napa NOT having it.

There's a kit called SAV-A-THREAD or something, made by helicoil, That puts a steel sleeve in the s/p hole. Comes with a tap, expander, and three sizes of inserts. Grease the tap up, run it down into the hole, it will cut the hole oversize for the insert. The grease keeps the chips on the tap instead of on the engine. Put the insert on an old s/p. put high temp rtv on the threads, run it down in there, remove s/p, put the expander in the insert and whack it with a hammer. Problem solved. The kit ain't cheap, but with the availibility of more inserts being pretty good, you can use it many, many times.

The rad could be plugged. With water having no where to go, I could see both hoses getting hot. Or maybe (rare) the impeller fell off the water pump.

I can bench press a turbo 350 And a volvo borg warner, ford ranger tranny, ford c6, crysler 904 torqflite, oddly enough, a mitsubishi eclipse's trans/awd transfer was one of the heaviest, mostly because I had to hold it at an unnatural angle for about 3 minutes straight while my friend struggled to get a single bolt in. Often, the hardest part is getting the trans BACK ON your chest so you can heave it in place. I'm surprised I haven't killed myself.

I'm getting timing belt vibes... Odd for a car to just DIE and not restart. And make the dead-cylinder noise while cranking. The betting starts at $1.

http://search.ebay.com/search/search.dll?GetResult&st=2&SortProperty=MetaEndSort&query=subaru+engine&ht=1&combine=y&from=R9 Watch the link not work... BTW, just before I posted this, I read the title to Miles' latest post, and had to laugh.

Did the car ever attempt to restart? I'd just have a peek at the timing belt for s___'s and giggles.

Here's an old pic, in case people haven't seen it. I'd take new pictures, but my digicam grew legs.

and as far as getting a lot of stuff done in one night, I feel pretty good. I got all of the essential wiring hooked up. Gauges, check engine light, and a cou[le other things can wait. I put gas in it, turned the key, it cranked, and nothing. Checked, hooked a couple relays up wrong. Turned the key, fuel pump comes on and shuts off, like it's supposed to. Cranked, nothing. got pwer at ignition coil but no spark. Fuel pump not coming on while cranking. So, it sounds like I'm not getting a signal from the crankshaft position sensor. Well, I broke that sensor up when I tried to take it out. It's steel body corroded in the aluminum block, which made removing the sensor a half hoour job, using things like a cordless drill, cold chisel, and hammer. There wasn't much left. Got on http://www.1stsubaruparts.com and ordered a sensor. $183.00. Ouch! Well if it fixed the problem. This is all in reference to the EJ22 VW Beetle, BTW.

I think Kubota UDT is just a hydraulic fluid made to kubota's specs. And hydraulic fluids don't have the extreme pressure additives in it that gear oils do. I'm worried about your ring and pinion. I would use a quality synthetic gear oil in whatever flavor you choose, in a 75w-90 weight.

forumlurker cough cough cough. sorry:D