Nug

You are the sh_t. Thank you!

i wish my problems were that simple.

Razor blades and scotchbrite pads work good for me.

Alrighty, this is what I have. 1st ecu- 22611 AA560 MECF-M01 9329 D3 2nd ecu- 22611 AA382 A11-000 R85 9717 The first one will initialize the fuel pump but will not turn it on while cranking. the second, well, it does nothing, but I don't think I can condemn it yet.

Can anyone identify year/model/transmission on 90-94 legacy ecu's by using the part # sticker on their cases? Can an automatic ecu be used in a manual application? Are early 90 model ecu's different from the later ones? And finally, between this group of ECU's, what are the differences between them as far as (let me figure out how to word this) how they hook up? I mean, does everything hook up in the same place on them? Or do things move around over time? I greatly appreciate ANY input on this subject. Thanks>

That's the spirit!

(whistles and looks at ceiling) Hey, it works on Holleys. Well, at least it isolated the problem, right? I'll shut up now.

You can try the "choke" trick. Take air cleaner off. Start engine. Grab throttle and hold it wide open. Put your palm over throat of carb. Pull your hand off when it's about to die, and let it run back up. Do it 4 or 5 times. If you have junk clogging a passage, this might get it out. It floods the carb and everything with gas, and often flushes out specks of dirt stuck in there. Beware of backfiring out of carb, and the associated fireballs.

Overtightening on alloy wheels can damage them, so keep this in mind also.

I put a gallon and a half on my bug, followed with 2 quarts of clearcoat.

Hey, you could do it Jaguar style. Drill the spindle, like you were talking about. Also drill a hole through the hub, and put the zerk in the hub. pump grease into the hub, and old grease exits through the spindle. A similar setup exists on M60 tanks, except there are 2 holes in the hub, and none in the spindle. One hole contains the zerk, and the other has a relief valve. It's fun pumping those up with a pneumatic grease gun. You don't know when it's going to pop off, or where the nasty, old grease will fly. I probably have a few of these relief valves sitting around, if you wanna give it a shot.

I think three main bearings would end this experiment pretty dramatically. That and the size of the cute little connecting rods.

What i'm saying is to pick the engine up by the intake, hit the broken bolt with a punch and hammer, and watch everything except the intake hit the floor.

a SPFI coolant temp sensor online? I tried 1stsubaruparts, looking under a 1988 wagon, to no avail. Too much traffic this time of year, so no interest in driving to Brown's Subaru across town.

maybe you could suspend the engine by the manifold over a roof beam or something. Run a punch down the hole where the offending headless bolt is, and wail away at it. the suspended manifold should stay put, and the engine, head and all should make for the floor. Engine still in the car? Maybe undo the motor mounts and pick the engine up (by the manifold) and try it like that. Try not to die:-p Seriously, it sounds like a start, or something.

There is a junkyard near me that has a handful of dead subies in it, including a rusted out brat. I pulled an engine out of a GL-10 wagon, plus whatever else I wanted off of the car, for $200. Everything else means pretty much everything out of the engine bay and part of the exhaust system.. I think they have even gotten cheaper here lately. Oh, and I managed to break the windshield while pulling the dash apart. Didn't tell the guy, but doubt he would have cared.

Sorry, I can't help you, all of my ideas involve welders. A similar thing happened on my jag, what was I to to? I beat it mercilessly with a hammer, then welded the broken parts back together. The broken bolt then unthreaded by hand:banghead: The previous post proves that we are extremely helpful sometimes.

My S-10 had exactly the symtoms you are describing. I rebuilt the carb and most of it went away. But the throttle shaft bores are so worn, that it is incapable of idling correctly. check for throttle shaft play.

Snap! Another Richmonder!

yeah, my S-10 is like that, and i'm just resigned to it, because I'm too cheap to buy another carburetor.

I'd go with a silicone based grease, petroleum based greases probably aren't real kind to rubber parts.

I bet some dual weber 40 IDF's on some reworked VW manifolds would rock the pavement.

Are the axle nuts still tight? Things get noisy when the axle nuts work loose.

If I recall correctly, there are two, one on either side of the bellhousing. Maybe down the side a little. Frankly, I don't know in your case, but I know they are there.

I KNEW it was something else, anyways, if you delve into the heads, I would check a few things. First, if they are perfectly flat. milling them is inexpensive enough. This might thwart a headgasket problem in the future. Valveguides- Don't know if they are easily replaceable. New ones are cool, but probably would cost more than having them knurled, which, if they aren't worn to badly, is perfectly acceptable. Cam lobes-How worn are they? I'd do some measuring, just to be sure. I don't guess subaru's have problems with lobes going flat, but it's easy enough to check. Finally, have the valve springs shimmed or replaced to get the seat pressure back to where it's suposed to be. Springs always degrade over time. Good luck and keep us posted!