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Everything posted by Nug
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Techron from Chevron is avalible from auto parts stores, and it's the sh_t. Also, your higher tier gas stations (Mobil, Chevron, Amoco) use the same amount of additives in their regular octane gasolines as in the premiums. So you get the same amount of cleanliness with your lower octane. I like chevron, although my s-10, which is the only reliable vehicle I have right now, would probably run off of piss.
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Part # Q
Nug replied to Nug's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
You are the sh_t. Thank you! -
Part # Q
Nug replied to Nug's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Alrighty, this is what I have. 1st ecu- 22611 AA560 MECF-M01 9329 D3 2nd ecu- 22611 AA382 A11-000 R85 9717 The first one will initialize the fuel pump but will not turn it on while cranking. the second, well, it does nothing, but I don't think I can condemn it yet. -
Can anyone identify year/model/transmission on 90-94 legacy ecu's by using the part # sticker on their cases? Can an automatic ecu be used in a manual application? Are early 90 model ecu's different from the later ones? And finally, between this group of ECU's, what are the differences between them as far as (let me figure out how to word this) how they hook up? I mean, does everything hook up in the same place on them? Or do things move around over time? I greatly appreciate ANY input on this subject. Thanks>
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You can try the "choke" trick. Take air cleaner off. Start engine. Grab throttle and hold it wide open. Put your palm over throat of carb. Pull your hand off when it's about to die, and let it run back up. Do it 4 or 5 times. If you have junk clogging a passage, this might get it out. It floods the carb and everything with gas, and often flushes out specks of dirt stuck in there. Beware of backfiring out of carb, and the associated fireballs.
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I put a gallon and a half on my bug, followed with 2 quarts of clearcoat.
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Hey, you could do it Jaguar style. Drill the spindle, like you were talking about. Also drill a hole through the hub, and put the zerk in the hub. pump grease into the hub, and old grease exits through the spindle. A similar setup exists on M60 tanks, except there are 2 holes in the hub, and none in the spindle. One hole contains the zerk, and the other has a relief valve. It's fun pumping those up with a pneumatic grease gun. You don't know when it's going to pop off, or where the nasty, old grease will fly. I probably have a few of these relief valves sitting around, if you wanna give it a shot.
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I think three main bearings would end this experiment pretty dramatically. That and the size of the cute little connecting rods.
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EA-81 intake manifold removal -- broken bolt. Any ideas?
Nug replied to Ma-fia's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
What i'm saying is to pick the engine up by the intake, hit the broken bolt with a punch and hammer, and watch everything except the intake hit the floor. -
a SPFI coolant temp sensor online? I tried 1stsubaruparts, looking under a 1988 wagon, to no avail. Too much traffic this time of year, so no interest in driving to Brown's Subaru across town.
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EA-81 intake manifold removal -- broken bolt. Any ideas?
Nug replied to Ma-fia's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
maybe you could suspend the engine by the manifold over a roof beam or something. Run a punch down the hole where the offending headless bolt is, and wail away at it. the suspended manifold should stay put, and the engine, head and all should make for the floor. Engine still in the car? Maybe undo the motor mounts and pick the engine up (by the manifold) and try it like that. Try not to die:-p Seriously, it sounds like a start, or something. -
There is a junkyard near me that has a handful of dead subies in it, including a rusted out brat. I pulled an engine out of a GL-10 wagon, plus whatever else I wanted off of the car, for $200. Everything else means pretty much everything out of the engine bay and part of the exhaust system.. I think they have even gotten cheaper here lately. Oh, and I managed to break the windshield while pulling the dash apart. Didn't tell the guy, but doubt he would have cared.
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EA-81 intake manifold removal -- broken bolt. Any ideas?
Nug replied to Ma-fia's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Sorry, I can't help you, all of my ideas involve welders. A similar thing happened on my jag, what was I to to? I beat it mercilessly with a hammer, then welded the broken parts back together. The broken bolt then unthreaded by hand:banghead: The previous post proves that we are extremely helpful sometimes. -
suggestions for new clutch
Nug replied to MaroonDuneDoom's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Snap! Another Richmonder! -
yeah, my S-10 is like that, and i'm just resigned to it, because I'm too cheap to buy another carburetor.
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Pneumatic suspension maintenance?
Nug replied to romania_subaru's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
I'd go with a silicone based grease, petroleum based greases probably aren't real kind to rubber parts. -
I bet some dual weber 40 IDF's on some reworked VW manifolds would rock the pavement.
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clicking noise, but not in turns
Nug replied to sidekickin's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Are the axle nuts still tight? Things get noisy when the axle nuts work loose. -
urgent tranny help- please look
Nug replied to mikekucharski's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
If I recall correctly, there are two, one on either side of the bellhousing. Maybe down the side a little. Frankly, I don't know in your case, but I know they are there.