Nug

Disassemble it and soak the individual pieces. Make absolutely sure you dont scratch up the thrust/ hydrodynamic bearings with anything abrasive, but you can scrub about everything else with a scotchbrite pad. Well, while you are in there, install new bearings/seals. $125 from turbo city. I'd recommend that over trying to get the used pieces back in there.

Valve leakage can do that. Do a vacuum test. A leakdown test can pinpoint it, also. A rich/lean mixture at idle is another possible culprit, as are vacuum leaks.

Did you mean CO instead of CO2?

Just hook it up like this. Loop the one wire over to the B+ terminal, and the other goes to the light on the dash. Run a big (at least 10 gauge) diameter cable from the B+ terminal on the alt to the positive battery post, and you are done. In this case, the purple wire goes to the battery, and the white one goes to the dash indicator. The red is the "tickler" wire, that needs to see what the battery voltage is in order to put out the correct voltage.

I think GM alts belong on everything, because they are so cheap, and they work pretty well, and they last a fairly long time. That, plus a lifetime warranty, and you'll never need to buy another. I have one on my Jag in place of the smog pump. The Lucas is still on there, spinning, doing nothing, with the terminals burned off.

discussion on the same topic. http://usmb.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=6629&highlight=shaft+sleeve

Cool, another Virginian. Are the throttle shaft bores worn? Can you take the throttle shaft and move it back and forth, up and down? If you can, the throttle plates will never be right. Time for a new carb. You can check this by spraying carb cleaner or starting fluid right at the throttle shaft, while wiggling it. It basically causes a big, variable vacuum leak that is hard to track down.

That sounds like it's applicable to Harley-Davidson and VW engines as well. I'll have to remember this one.

I have another engine that is immaculate. I'm polishing it up, making it pretty. I plan on putting it in this weekend. I need to be driving the sob.

I believe you can, but I have no idea where you will put the alternator.

Well, it's not exactly motor oil. Hence the name, i suppose.

Well, if there is any availible O2 in the exhaust, it should be catalyzing SOMETHING.

Did you have some sort of ballpark you wanted for it?

Oil pressure regulator?

I have seen this in many, many cars. My girlfriend's cabriolet, my S-10, and my beetle, with it's aircooled engine, all do this constantly. I don't think it's indicative of a head gasket, but in your case, it's a possibility. I recommend an oil analysis and the exhaust in the coolant chemical test before you condemn it.

Which are available from Eastwood's.

The head has to come off. Is is 4wd? a/t or m/t? Theoretically, you could pull the oil pan off and put bearings in it, if the crank isn't scored.

Indeed. "The Fogger" is available at NAPA, and it's sole purpose is for engine storage. I would do everything else gbianchi says to do.

I'll agree with that.

I don't think I agree with Noah either. More timing CAN increase power...up to a point. Octane reduces detonation. Fuel with a higher octane burns with a higher stability, which is why it is used in engines with a high compression ratio, or with forced induction. It will also allow more timing to be run, but optimum timing can't be decided by octane. You can't simply crank the timing up until the threshold of detonation and exclaim that that is where the most horsepower is made. It can only be proven on a dyno. Compression raises efficiency and therefore power, and forced induction adds power. Optimized timing makes power. Octane does not. Octane just allows this to happen without detonation. Timing requirements also change with changes in compression, cam timing, and combustion chamber design. Two apparently identical engines might also require different timing for optinal horsepower output. Next time someone dyno's a car, figure out where the timing needs to go, and then leave it alone.

You would have to put a radiator up front.

It's NOT just the lower compression. It's the combustion chamber shape. I plan to mill the heads to regain the lost compression. I don't want to say this might work, and have it work because the compression was lowered, I want to see if it will work because the combustion chamber shape changed and the compression remained the same. BTW I think I can do it all on the mill at work. Can you say no overhead cottage industry?

Yes, it will fit, and they make engine adapters for it too. Cheaper to maintain a soob engine, I think.

Hmm. I posted twice today with blaringly obvious mistakes. Time to wake up.

If you've got spark, than at least the driver's side timing belt is still attached. I'd look at fuel system.