Nug

Careful with that. You'll go down to metal reeeeal quick. Best to wet-sand the offending areas and get clear sprayed over it again.

That rust'll buff right out. Good score!

That'll buff right out.

I wish i had a Fluke ocilliscope. *Sigh *

This is happening NOW???! Jeez, I just walked in! Looking at that last pic, I wouldn't be suprised if they all got picked up in some BFE town. Good luck guys!

Hey Blue, any updates?

Sweet dude! Sweeeeet! I love it when a ridiculously large scale, drawn out forever project takes a turn for the better!

Packing a bearing first involves taking everything apart and cleaning it all up. I wouldn't want to dump new grease on top of old, they may be incompatable. Or if the old grease is contaminated, then you are doing nothing. Take it all apart, clean it up, clean old bearings out with solvent. Inspect. Determine reusability. Take whatever bearing you plan on using in one hand, a handful of your favorite high-temp, wheel bearing grease in the other. "Scoop" the grease out of your hand with the bearing, forcing it though the rollers until it appears out of the other end. It helps to scoop a little at a time, eating the bearing cage into your palm to really force it though. Once you go all the way around and fill all the cavities between the rollers up, put it back where it came from and install a fresh seal, or the old one if you somehow miraculously removed it without destroying it. I sort of doubt any shop would go into this amount of detail, but it's the only correct way. "bearing packers" are availible rather cheaply from places like Harbor freight, and it allows you to use a grease gun to pack the bearing. It's still a huge freakin' mess any way you look at it, so take that into perspective. Also, wash your hands BEFORE you grab a clean bearing and a handful of grease, that way, all the crap on your palms doesn't end up in between the rollers.

Heh, I have no idea what you all are talking about, but it doesn't sound like you've found an answer! =)

The EJ's are even heavier. Getting one out of a crushed wheelbarrow into the back of ones truck by themself sucks. Anyway, a 2x4 can be tied to the engine and each end of the board lifted on someones shoulder, if you aren't interested in having your back snap clean in two.

It looks tough! Are you willing to scratch it up on a trail? Wait. No one wants to hear that while the paint's still drying!

Yes, you can do it like that, but with lower levels of leakdown, it's hard to tell the difference. Besides, the thing I wrote was how to use the leakdown tester, not how to avoid using one. That wasn't meant to sound harsh. I've done it with just compressed air. It IS nice to have quantifiable numbers, though.

Bump for the 4:20 crew...

Leakdown testing is extremely useful. Unlike a compression test, it can isolate the source of cylinder leakage. This can be done on any engine, running or not, without the need for a battery or starter. It can also be done at a junkyard if you are lloking at a used engine. First you need a leakdown tester. There are 2 types: One and Two gauge. Either will work, they are both equal. The two gauge one simply shows line pressure (from your compressor or air tank, and it isn't vital. Two gauge testers abound on ebay, they are about $70, i bought a used Snap-on one for about $40. First, You need to get whatever cylinder you are going to test on Top dead center, both valves closed. It's fairly important to get the piston near the top of the bore, as this is where most of the wear is, and it's more accurate. It might be easier to take the valve cover(s) off so you can see the valves working. Pop the radiator cap (if it's a H/g, you don't wanna blow up your heater core/radiator if pressure gets into the cooling system.. Plug the tester into a source of compressed air, and zero the gauge. A line screws into the spark plug hole, with a quick connect hooking to the gauge. Connect the two. Hold the crankshaft so it doesn't turn. Read the gauge. 2% or less-race engine quality ring seal 5-10%-good engine under 20% Reasonable. You shouldn't see any problems over 20%- um, there is some wear, or leakage, or something. With compressed air in the cylinder, if there is a leak, then you can pinpoint it. If it's a h/g leak, bubbles should form in the coolant. If your rings are worn the hell out, you can hear air coming out of the dipstick tube or open valve cover. Intake valve leak- You can hear a change inpitch if you open and shut the throttle. You can put your ear over the intake. Exhaust valve leak- you can hear air coming out of the tailpipe. You can do this test in a junkyard if you bring a full air tank and work quickly. Only 30psi (approx) enters the cylinder, and if it doesn't leak too much, you should have more than enough air, maybe enough to do a V8. Mods- i'd like to submit this to the Repair Manual. And If someone want's to link it to the new Gen Forum, or the Alliance Board, Or wherever else, fell free. Eric

Read a few lines above. It's EZboard, not the USMB doing it.

I might add that the filter is easily defeated.

Weird. Sorry Shawn. I would like to add that if you are interested in viewing this forum, I recommend that people easily offended or that have small children nearby please refrain. That is all. When I click on the link, it throws a question mark up there instead of the letter "o".

Without OT, It'll take me forever to reach 1000 posts! um, you don't wanna know what I was gonna put there, anyway.

EZboard killed the link. Watch for misplaced/substituted characters.

Mmmm, yep, but that's ok.

Sudden Unprovoked Head Gasket Failure Syndrome (SUHGFS?) They sometimes blow for no good reason. 2.2 closed deck engine is more stable, apparently, than the 2.5's open deck design. Redesigned h/g's are available, and while better, it doesn't completely cure the problem. External h/g leaks are not uncommon either.

C'mon! We've got a ways to go before we exceed the bandwidth!