Nug

I tried to post last night, to no avail. You need to do Something with the heads. At least determine that they are perfectly flat. You can also do a ghetto valve job by yourself, by lapping the valves. You can take care of a lot of issues at one by just taking the heads to a machine shop and asking for a valve job. They will clean the heads up, determine if they are flat, check/recondition/replace the valve guides and check/recondition/replace the valves. A three-angle valve job improves airflow and corrects anny valve leakage, necessary for making power, and having a nice, smooth idle. The shop can also check your spring tension and shim the springs up if they are tired. Money ($250ish) very well spent if you ask me.

The easiest way to do it wold have the Select Monitor (or whatever hooks up to older soobs) connected, you could see it happening. No one has a select monitor, so that makes it tougher. I don't know how much voltage the knock sensor makes (it's a piezoelectric cystal deal, right?) but maybe you could plumb a voltmeter in there and monitor what comes out. I'm sure this helped immensly.

You'll blow it up. Turbo and too much timing = ventilated pistons. Cranking the timing way up is, in my book, on the same level as those electric turbochargers. If I was playing around with boost, i would follow this rule of thumb: for every psi you go up, back the timing off 2 degrees TOTAL timing. It helps to have a timing light that has a timing scale on it. Armed with this knowledge, you could theoretically mess with the timing advance in your distributor, Limiting the total timing so you could set it normal-like at idle, but cut out the total timing on top, so when you go to full advance, it isn't too much and the added boost doesn't scatter parts. Sorry for the rant. Is there a centrifugal advance in subie disty's? Or vacuum advance (at least on the car we're talking about)? If there is, then these mods are possible. If not, then I guess it's all in the computer, unless you want to go to something like a MSD timing controller, which on some models will lower total timing as boost goes up. This would help a high boost engine last a LONG time, as detonation in ANY turbo engine is very, very bad.

When the piston is in the middle of it's stroke, it is moving at it's highest velocity. This is also the time that thrust loads are highest. A longer rod would help alleviate these thrust loads. Alright, i'll accept that longer rods could flex more. However, a Subaru has the shortest connecting rod I have ever seen. I think you could lengthen them SOME. All other engine can't possibly suffer from their longer rods flexing. Besides, that's what 4130 grade steel is for.

Caleb- laugh it up, buddy. j/k I laughed too. I know it's not an interference engine, but picture this. A weak or broken valvespring. An engine running way too fast. The cam launches the valve off of it's lobe, and it stays out there, dangling, long enough for the piston to smack it. Like a bungee jumper with too much rope. Obviously, more of a problem in different engines. Hmm, the first time i saw a subaru connecting rod, I was also looking at a jaguar connecting rod, which is nearly twice as long. I wasn't very impressed. I guess these guys don't have much as far as stroke is concerned?

I can think of a few scenarios. One, you float a valve, and a piston comes up and smacks it, breaking it off at the stem. the next time the piston comes up, it smashes it into the cylinder head. If you're lucky, just the piston and head are destroyed. Or if the valve hits on the edge of the piston, the piston is smeared into the cylinder wall, scoring that up. If you're not so lucky, the connecting rod breaks in two. The big end is still connected to the crank, at least until it swings around and gets wedged somewhere, ventilating the block in the process. The next scenario involves the connecting rod bolt, a classic weak link in many engines. You go over redline, and you exceed the tensile strength of the bolt. Bearing crush is reduced, allowing the rod bearings to start moving around. eventually they spin, damaging the crank and the rod. If this continues long enough, the bearing welds itself to the crank, the connecting rod breaks in half, and goes though the hood of your car. Sometimes the con rod bolt simply breaks, and the rod is sh-t right out of your oil pan. lastly, pistons are only designed to travel so fast. exceed the maximum speed limit, and things like piston skirts crack, or break off, setting off a chain reaction of connecting rod failure and big oily messes. My suggestions for wringing the snot out of any engine: Get good quality connecting rods with good hardware in a longer-than-stock length. This reduces piston speed at certain times during the stroke. It also reduces thrust loads on the pistons. You might need shorter pistons to keep a negative deck height. Second, invest in some quality valve springs. Finally, make sure things are getting oil like they are supposed to. Thank you. That is all.

Timing doesn't always equal more power. The concept of pushing timing up until it pings and then backing it off is hogwash. Today's modern combustion chamber designs allow less total timing to be run and still burn quick. Do EA82's have an efficient combustion chamber design? From the sounds of it, I sort of doubt it. If I was in this situation, I'd build a longblock with around 7.0:1 compression and then crank up the boost. Unless I could do something about the combustion chamber shape.

Prepare to twist apart 3rd and 4th gear if you hammer it. Other than that, and the possibility of blowing up the 2-spider gear differential, Sweet! So you've driven it? How is it? Sick? I can't wait to get mine on the road. Thanks to these guys, I finally got the wiring straight and it runs. EJ22, stock motor.

It's not flatness of the head and deck that the boring plate addresses, but a roundness of cylinder issue. When the heads are bolted on, it stresses the block. If the cylinders are bored perfectly round without a boring plate, then the head is bolted on, the cylinders are no longer perfectly round. The boring plate simulates the head being bolted on, and results in a perfectly round bore with the head installed. This reduces friction, decreases blowby, reduces break-in time, and adds horsepower. On the other hand, very, very few production engines are bored and honed using a boring plate. It takes too long. If you can't find someone who has a plate, then just consider the lifespan of a stock soob. Personally, I wouldn't worry too much about it, unless you were trying to win the WRC. Airplane guys live's depend on the thing running flawlessly, so you are comparing apples to oranges there.

I have USAA (you can only get it if you or your parents are/were in the armed forces). I pay $4 every six months per car for towing. I always get it, because every car i have ever owned (except the S-10) has come home at least once on a strecher.

The propellant used in airbags is called sodium azride, or something. It is basically solid rocket fuel. Combusts extremely fast, with a high volume of gases. Don't know if the byproducts are harmful or not. Have you ever bumped into anything before? I know that on some cars, there are a few sensors up front, and more than one needs to be triggered before the bag will deploy. Someone backing into you in a parking lot could possibly arm one sensor, leaving one or others to take the next hit, possibly without much force.

This is quite unlike the time my dad high centered his sube on a snowbank in the middle of a plowed parking lot because he was like "hey, I have 4wd! I can go anywhere!" Seriously though, That's great. I LOVE proving people wrong.

Let's say that theoretically, the transmission will hold up. Then let's say that a 50hp shot of NO2 is actually adding 50 hp, for a theoretical total of 180 hp. That would give me around 11.3 lbs per hp. That would be niiiice. I'd like to hand a Mustang GT it's rump roast.

The last engine I built for it had maybe 85 horse. Bowl blending, recurved disty, weber32/36, headers. It would go over 100mph. The tranny is only good for 150 hp. Engine mods? Don't think i need any, but there's always nitrous oxide. I think they start popping wheelies at 150 hp.

The sticker on the door says 1835lbs. I guess figure in 200 lbs for all the extra schizz and um...15.65 lbs per hp. Then add 200 more for me and it's 17.19 lbs per hp. I guess that's good. I don't really know.

Um, lets see... Subaru: 2.2 liters, 130? hp, don't know torque. 1974 vw: 1.6l, 60 (that's generous)hp, maybe 85 on last engine. Torque unknown. Last motor ran out of steam at 5,500rpm. This is gonna be SO less crappy. Engines weight's are fairly similar. Sube accessories (cooling system, especially) adds a significant amount of weight. Not that it matters.

of my subaru bug in the new generation forum. If anyone is interested. BTW it actually runs!

Behold my homemade exhaust system! Marvel in its cheapness! Everything, except getting some ball joints put in, and the paint, was done by me. I'm gonna put these on later, I'll have to have the drums and rotors redrilled, but I've already finished a narrowed front beam suspension.

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I know of no better way to do this, since Yahoo! pictures is down.

Ha ha , you said chevette! My friend Mike has a chevette that is lowered waaay down, little 13 in wheels, and a datsun/nissan ka24 engine. Little bastard holds it's own at the local 1/8th mile strip. I'm getting off topic on a thread I started.

Damn, it feels good. I can't take credit for the idea, cuz kennedy engineering makes adapters for about 100 different enngines to go on vw transmissions. The rest is up to you. They market this adapter to go on a vanagon, but it will work in a type one with a different flywheel. I haven't seen any other sube-powered vw's (except for an ea-82 me and my roomate did), so it is at least uncommon. And my idea from the start was to make it a cal-look sleeper. I even have a vw-derived "dual quiet-pack" exhaust grafted to the ej22. And I expected it to be a lot louder, but the thing is QUIET! Man, I'm gonna tear up the honda boys with this sh_t!

I got my Bug running! Holy Crap! Sweet! VGR3 over at legacycentral put his thumb on it...no ecu power while cranking. Of course, these are the bullsh_t obvious problems that always kick me in the nuts. Anyway, I had my mom in there holding a rigged power wire, in case it burst into flames or something. It started almost immediately and idled, a little crappy, but hey, not bad for something with all its vacuum lines off, no coolant, and no alternator. This thing is going to be so sick, man, sh_t, I'm getting lightheaded. Thanks for your help, Legacy777, and thanks everyone I've hassled as far as getting parts and stuff. I appreciate it. P.S. maybe this car will make it to some future events.