Nug

Ok, this is what I've got. I definately have crank and cam sensor inputs going into the computer, verified with voltmeter. I also managed to test the ignition coil wrong, but finally got that right and it's fine. The ignitor circuit is done correctly, and is grounded properly. The fuel pump definately is not running while cranking. It comes on with the key momentarily. Test modes on the computer work, it cycles the fuel pump, and it tries to spit out codes, which I can't read for the lack of a CEL. Checking for ignition output at the computer yeilded some odd results. With the ignitor plugged in, the FSM says to backprobe it and look for voltage pulsations which is the computer telling the ignition coil to fire. With the ignition on, I get around 5 volts. Cranking, it drops to zero. Is this the fault of the ignitor, or ecu? I didn't think to check it with the ignitor unplugged to try to isolate it, cuz the FSM never mentioned that. It said after that check, if abnormal results are found, to replace the ignitor. But that still doesn't explain the fuel pump not coming on while cranking, unless the computer is looking for the correct ignition signal. I don't know. Anyone got a used ecu sitting around they wanna sell?

Terminal 4 on the F47 block isn't hooked up. There isn't even mention of it that I can find in the FSM. It's a yellow/green wire. The only other things that aren't hooked up include the gauges, vehicle speed sensor, and the check engine light. I put it in check mode today, and it cycled the fuel pump. The check engine light wire was hooked to my voltmeter, but it doesn't react quickly enough to determine the number of blinks. Does that light need to be a LED? I also checked the resistance on the ignition coil. It appears to have the continuity of a brick. If the coil is dead, does the computer keep the fuel pump off so fuel isn't unnecessarily injected into the engine? That's my new theory. I didn't even think about the fact that the automatic car has a TCU. Now I feel dumb.

Or did I grab the TCU out of the donor car?

Does anyone have pics of ecu's with identification? The ecu I have has four connectors, each a different size. The ecu that came with the engine, and was not used, has three connectors. I NEED a positive ID on the ecu I have. It is SUPPOSED to be the one I need.

The computer and wiring are from a 90 model. I believe the engine is from a 91. I'm going by sound on the fuel pump, because it's a MSD pump and it is as loud as a blender. The engine has huge ground cables from the engine to frame to battery, and the ecu has multiple grounding pionts as well. The tone wheels look positively fine. On the crank side, anyway. Never had the cam sensor out, and engine rran before I pulled it out of the donor car. I have not checked continuity in the sensor wiring yet. I remembered my voltmeter today, will do that this evening. Is the check engine light a LED or a regular bulb? Because a regular 12v bulb in my testlight never came on (it's a temporary chk eng light).

Cool. Tell us what happens. cough cough alcohol cough If all else fails anyway

I figured a three angle grind is pretty much standard operating procedure at the machine shop...unless it's a real high performance engine and a 5 angle grind is best. just cutting one angle on the seat is kind of bogus. A three angle grind generally helps airflow around the seat when the valve is open, and you can adjust where on the valve the actual seating is taking place. To answer your question, yes. Competent machine shop?

I could go rooting in the Galaxie...

Didn't do a thing to the engine. Just put it in. And the computer is telling the pump to come on. And it's doing that, but it doesn't know the engine is rotating. So it doesn't turn it on while cranking, just initially. And there is no spark so it wouldn't start anyway. The computer isn't picking up crankshaft rotation, or there would be spark, and the fuel pump would be running, right?

THAT'S WHERE I BOUGHT MINE FROM!!!! :banghead: That sucks!

My EJ22 powered beetle, that is. This is what it will do. When you turn the key on, the fuel pump comes on for a sec or two, and shuts off. And it will crank. It's kind of hard to hear, being in an enclosed shop and a gear reduction starter going to town, but I don't think the fuel pump is running while cranking. And there is no spark. First I would like to say that I know the ecu is getting power in all the places it needs to, and everything is grounded real well. Like major overkill grounding. Second, I forgot my voltmeter, so this thread may not have been necessary, but whatever. The car is in my parent's garage, 35 miles from where I live, so I couldn't just go and grab it. Third, It has power at the coil and ignitor, but no spark. Initially I thought "Hey, sounds like crank sensor, with the fuel pump not coming on while cranking and no spark, right?" So I tried to remove it and promptly broke it. $190 later, i have a new sensor in there and same thing. The real goober is that I know the crank, cam, MAF, and knock sensor wiring is all ok because those were some things that i could leave unmolested while stripping the harness down in preparation for the swap. Basically, I have doubts on only one wire on the whole dooker (word courtesy of Miles Fox) and it's a MAF wire, and I don't think that would cause all this. I'm pretty sure it's all right. I'm also fairly confident that I have the 2 U-check wires correctly marked, but when i try to run codes (for the hell of it, I know it hasn't even run yet) I get nothing from the check engine light (which is currently just a 12v test light. It makes no attempt to come on at any time. Who thinks my ecm took a nasty dump? BTW I saw this engine run. It was running very well moments before I ripped it out of a perfectly good legacy sedan w/no title. But the ecu and harness are from a different car. And I believe It was a manual harness and an auto ecm. Which isn't supposed to me that big a deal, aside from a couple small discrepancies. Anyone confused yet?

Because I am trying to figure out why the sube engine in the back of my bug won't start, and, well, the connector got hacked off looong ago. Just trying to make sure I have the right wires. I'm gonna start a new thread, so feel free not to reply.

777... what colors are the two wires? I couldn't tell on one in the pic. Thanks

I found it linked to a personal aircraft site from a sight that concentrates on vw engine swaps. Enjoy!

I'd just replace the oxygen sensor.

Hahaha! Stupid little dogs... Jeeps rust worse than subies do. That canvas top is a sieve. And mud plasters all over everything, and holds water in. Too many nooks and crannies. An there isn't a jeep out there that doesn't recieve a load of outright abuse. They are just too fun to be tender with. And so they are destroyed.

I got suckered into helping a guy at work getting his ford van to pass the test. His CO was 500% higher than the limit. Cranking the timing up 5 degrees past the limit and about 50% alcohol in the tank brought it well within limits. Your car is turbo, and might not like that much timing. But everyone likes alcohol:drunk: You might not want to leave it in there very long because it absorbs water like crazy, and helps things corrode. So drive it out when you pass:-)

The car has a cat, right? Decent shape?

I found another page with MY97 and under stuff, it's in the new gen forum.

http://www.saxonfields.freeserve.co.uk/ Go to the scooby page. http://www.finleyweb.net/default.asp?id=142 And here's some stuff on 90-94 legacies, EA-81 and EA-82. Have fun!

There's a remote possibility I'll have the subebug running.

Pellet guns are pretty quiet. Well, i guess you'd have to camp out until you saw him.

Tractor hydraulics can get very hot, so I don't think temps will make a difference. I'm a firm believer in trying something to see what happens.

Yeah, the brake line thing works good enough to drive it.

I had a weber on my jeep and that thing was a wh*** to start also.