Nug

POR-15 in the eye...Holy Jesus, I thought I was going blind!

They have a little drill at the hospital, almost like a dremel, for removing cast iron, for example, out of the patient's eye. Not that I know anything about it. I hit a chisel with a hammer once, a piece of it went so far into the joint of my index finger that you couldn't see it. It was fun letting the doctor dig that one out of the cartilage.

http://www.dragstuff.com/techarticles/vacuum-pumps.html http://www.hardtail.com/techtips/vacuum-pumps.html http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/0304_381/index1.html Maybe this can explain it better than I. Looks like an easy way to add some power, especially for the turbo guys.

Bump. I have an article around here that might explain myself, let's see if i can find it...

http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/79738/index.html Old tech baby! Yeah

Oh, I'm aware of the thousands of reasons why efi and turbo go together like pb and j. I'm just saying that carbs and turbos can work. I like to keep it fresh in my mind that there is always another way of doing something. You always have options. Just got back from the Bugout in Manasass, VA. The popular setup on the VW-style rails is to run a non-intercooled, carbed, draw-through turbo setup on top of the motor. If you can get a VW style engine to put out 300-650hp, then I guess something is being done right.

Old school crap??? Vortech just came out with a carb pressure box for use with a centrifugal supercharger. A boost-referenced fuel system is required. You can have blowers and carbs on your musclecar without having to cut a hole in your hood. And they make power!

Anyone run a vacuum pump on the crankcase of their turbo or high rpm motor? Under full boost or high rpm, the crankcase pressure can become real high, even with open vents and stuff. If you can SUCK air out of the crankcase, HP is gained and oil control restored. This reduces oil leaks too. HP goes up, because, you know, the backside of the pistons are pumping air also. If there's nothing to pump, then ther's less parasitic loss. They sell vac pumps specifically for this (Moroso), some people use smog pumps (GM).

My costs included sanding discs for my DA, 3M masking tape, a gallon of acetone, and a roll of masking paper. Would have used newspaper, but The Free-Lance Star looks like they have fifth graders proof reading and editing, so I dropped my subsription a year ago.

Gotta respect the cheap-rump roast paint job! I have an 84 s-10 that used to be an old fire department truck. By the time I got it, it had some white house paint, a red fender, gloopy runs all in it, fire dept. decals that had been painted over, and even wallpaper (don't ask). I took my DA and sanded all of that off, left most of the basecoat, did 0% bodywork to fix the dents, and shot it up with Rustoleum Satin Black oil-based enamel (for lawn furniture). Total $ spent: Forty dollars. It looks a million times better than it ever did, and if I scratch it all up, which is inevitable, it's an $8 can of paint away. I used the quart cans (2), did one coat, sprayed it through my DeVilbiss gun. Highly recomended for anything that bashes through the woods. Eric

You can subscribe for a few days and download just the things you need.

I drove my worn-out jaguar from VA to MA and back, about 1000mi. FIFTEEN QUARTS BABY! Yeah, there's no oil control over 3k rpm. At no point, however, did I exceed 120 mph.

I know on older VW's you needed to adjust the valves every 3k miles. Not that the adjustment changed that much, but you were watching for a valve that constantly too tight. The exhaust valves would stretch, and would eventually break off. Maybe your valve started to stretch, or perhaps the valve was guttering, or the seat was wearing. Worn seats and/or valve guttering could aggravate a burned valve. So can valve guide wear.

Dem's some purty feet.

I have a Craftsman 36 mm socket that I've thrown the impact to a number of times. There is a risk of splitting it. Also a small risk of it flying to pieces, but i'll take my chances. I have a brass hammer. As long as you don't bash the threads directly, it won't hurt them. The brass hammer is the greatest invention for sucky suspension work, because you can wail away with impunity and not hurt anything. Watch out for brass shrapnel, it will imbed into cartilage. Ball joint boots don't survive, either.

I have a Craftsman 36 mm socket that I've thrown the impact to a number of times. There is a risk of splitting it. Also a small risk of it flying to pieces, but i'll take my chances. I have a brass hammer. As long as you don't bash the threads directly, it won't hurt them. The brass hammer is the greatest invention for sucky suspension work, because you can wail away with impunity and not hurt anything. Watch out for brass shrapnel, it will imbed into cartilage. Ball joint boots don't survive, either.

The brakes were fine until a few weeks ago. Whether vented or not, something failed and his mech can't figure it out.

My Dad probably won't want to change anything, other than fixing the problem. He's not real interested in modifying anything, although he showed some interest in the weber swap, mostly because he spent an assload getting a new Hitachi put on it. Don't know whether vented or not. He got a pretty good deal on the car, $2000 for 40K! It has something like 136K on it now, 99% highway miles, 1% doing donuts in a snowy field. I imagine It may be for sale sometime in the forseeable future, for a reasonable sum.

My Dad has an '84 Gl sedan (ea81, 3 speed auto, pushbutton 4wd, trunk luggage rack, 0 rust) and the brakes take big pedal effort to stop the car, especially when warm. New M/C, booster, pads, shoes, etc. New vacuum lines to booster that won't collapse. There is a new check valve in the booster line, no Vac leaks, everything looks kosher. Any Ideas? Stuck calipers, maybe? Let me know something. Thanks

Possible leaking master cylinder, brake booster. Engine could be ingesting brake fluid, which smokes white.

Well, we screwed around for quite a while, and finally, the thing started. This is basically what I've got. Mark TDC onto crank sprocket. Put crank at TDC. Move cams six teeth before they reach their respective timing marks. Crank and enjoy. P.S. Then it wouldn't start again, took about 30 minutes to realize it's out of gas. Eric

Yeah, I learned all kinds of things about VW's. I know it like the back of my hand. Made a bunch of mistakes on it (it being my first car) that i'm now going around and trying to fix. After blowing up about 5 VW motors, I decided to go with an engine that I know will perform reliably. So here I am. This thread is actually directed to a roomate's car. He saw what I was doing, and decided to convince me to help him with his. So we've got my bug w/ Ej22. and his super beetle w/ EA82. Maybe in a couple weeks I'll post some gratuitous burnout pics.

Miles, good to hear from you. From what I have gathered on this forum, I got the picture that you probably had a method that deviated from the norm, which I can appreciate. One such example was the bolt breaking in the tensioner of the trashwagon, at the beginning of your ill-fated but well documented trip to the northwest. Anyway, I thank all that have replied, and I'm certain that another rare Subaru powered beetle will soon hit the street. (Now everyone is thinking "I should have kept my mouth shut").

Well, one more thing. Some carbs (and I don't actually OWN a sube, so I don't know) have a fuel shutoff valve that snaps shut when the ignition is turned off. Without fuel, it won't diesel. If this imaginary valve is on all the time, it will aggrevate your problem.

Dieseling. Yeah, it's embarrassing. The cause is simple. There is something in the combustion chamber that is hot enough to act like a spark plug, igniting fuel even with no spark. Usually, carbon in the combustion chamber does it, but sometimes it's something like the spark plugs' ground electrode. Especially if they are worn and the electrode is real thin. Without going to the root problem, you might be able to keep it down by changing the plugs (if it hasn't been done in a while), or by running a top cleaner. You can use sea foam, I know that GM makes a superb top cleaner. There are other aftermarket brands. Basically, you take the air cleaner off, pour this stuff in slowly while keeping the engine running, and then just dumping it in until the engine dies. Let it sit for 15 min. and start her up. This dissolves most of the carbon. As for root causes, the most common are 1. Idle speed set too high, 2. Engine running too hot, 3. poor fuel quality 4. It's actually a ford 300 six-cylinder you are working on Having the ignition timing advanced too far will also raise combustion temps, and will get that carbon glowing. Well, that's all I can think of right now.