Nug

I'm pretty sure the rear suspension is different.

Both them Soobs run really good. I'm impressed. You all like pushin' the speed limit down them rutty roads. I'd end up in the trees if I tried that. [hijack] I took my sister for a ride in the subaru bug, it was raining, and I was spinning at 50 mph for half a block. I let up when we started going sideways. [/ hijack]

That depends. If the engine was new, then all the lengths would probably be the same. But if you get into head milling and cylinder decking (which your rebuilt engine might have), the requirements for pushrod length changes. Almost no one checks this stuff, I would guess. But it's important if you want your stuff to run good, for a long, long time. I heard that Formula Vee racers often have an entire engine full of different length pushrods, in an effort to get every valve perfect, in the search for horsepower.

I had a nice thing typed out, but I just lost the whole thing. Trying to figure out the length of the pushrod to use? Try this test. Take the rocker arm off. Color the tip of the valve with dykem, prussian blue, a Sharpie, whatever. Put the rocker arm back on. Adjust lash (without screwing up your fancy coloring job. How do you do that, you ask. I'm not sure. Eyeball it. Get it close. Anyway, turn the engine over by hand, for one complete stroke of the rocker arm. Remove the rocker arm again. Look at the tip of the valve. You should have an even mark in your coloring, looking something like this: You don't want it to be uneven, like this: If it is all up on one side like the last quality drawing indicates, then your pushrod length is wrong. You could trial and error this with the different pushrods you have, or you could order an adjustable pushrod from Comp Cams or someone. Or you could make one. Figure out how long you want your pushrods by doing the above procedure until you get the pushrod length right, and then order up a set. You will be rewarded by having valve guides last a long time, and less friction. Not to mention a valvetrain that is more likely to hold together at high rpm.

http://www.evanscooling.com/catalog/C_npg1.htm go to the bottom of the page for ordering info

Once again, do you have spark? If you do, then your crankshaft position sensor is working, and you should have fuel, too. If you don't have spark, but have fuel, I'd look at the coil and ignitor. If you don't have anything, I'd check crankshaft position sensor, camshaft position sensor, and the timing belt. If you have spark, but no fuel, I'd look at fuel pump, injectors (or the signal from the ecu to the injectors), or the ecu. If you have normal compression, then it's not the base engine, unless the timing belt has jumped a few teeth.

It sounds like you are trying to make your own adapter. The one for the Beetle is fairly complex, especially the flywheel. You are right though, it's a great engine. And it makes this thing scream.

heh heh heh... About $25 a gallon. Theoretically, you never need to replace it. I'm gonna seriously consider getting some for my Jaguar when I swap engines, jags have problems with the head studs rusting in half. I like to avoid that sort of thing. I'm gonna look into getting a 55 gallon drum for the vehicles at work. About $1100 worth.

And here is a page from GRM magazine... http://www.grmotorsports.com/mustanggt.html

What I meant was get the best oem style rotors there are (probably subaru) and get them cryogenically frozen. Not a big fan of slotted/drilled for street use.

Jumping a tooth is possible, but I think you should check out your ECU codes first. Go to Legacy 777's website and figure out how to pull the codes. It's fairly easy, and you don't need a scantool. You will need a manual to tell you what the codes are. Do this before you do anything else, certainly before you start buying parts and throwing them at it. I put a 2.2 ina VW beetle. I had the wrong MAF on it, and the symptoms are very similar to what you describe. It seems to me that this is the problem, but you NEED to pull the codes to determine this.

It sounds like the MAF pinched a loaf. But pull the codes. Only way to be sure.

Non-aqueous propylene glycol. It has a better heat transfer rate than 50-50 water/glycol mix, won't boil, and is non-poisonous. It doesn't form air pockets in the water jacket of the engine, so there are no localized hot-spots that can aggravate metal warpage. Grassroots Motorsports magazine did an article on it that seemed very imformative. Yeah the stuff is expensive, but so is a blown head gasket. Read the entire article, please. http://www.evanscooling.com/html/npgPls.htm

Get the best ones you can buy, and have them cryogenically frozen. I've heard good things. I plan on doing this to my Jaguar.

Has anyone researched porsche 930 cv joints for their lifted rigs? Apparently, they can run at some incredible angles and stay together. A lot of the vw-based off-road guys use them.

Not necessarily. If your compression rings are toast, then your compression would be very low, possibly making the engine hard to start. Your oil rings don't take the thermal abuse that the top two do, so they may have survived. It is entirely possible to have no compression, but still have oil control. The oil rings would still be wiping oil off of the cylinder walls, even though the top compression rings can no longer control combustion gasses. Your plugs would remain clean, and you would have tremendous blowby. Have you tested the compression yet? Also, coolant leaking into the combustion chamber has the tendency to "steam clean" everything, making your plugs look clean. You overheated the crap out of this car, right? I think I remember you saying that. Well, subies like to blow head gaskets when overheated. Rings cook that way, too.

Nevermind the water thing. At first, I thought the head was off the car. My next guess is that it's in the exhaust port. In which case, I wouldn't worry about it.

I'm pretty sure the holes are blind. I think you hit a water jacket. Try it with the head underwater. *Watches from under umbrella* The head is still on the engine? Nevermind the underwater thing.

Mail it to me and I'll weld it for you.

Shove an air hose up in there and press the button. If air comes flying out somewhere else, then I guess you're screwed.

Did the same thing on a VW project (not the one in my sig). After cursing for a while, I took the elbow, cut it in half, brazed the ends shut, installed and ran it. No problem (unless you are trying to pass an emissions test).

Rotor turns counterclockwise, also. $5 says it's ignition timing/spark plug wiring.

Beware of "Coolant Migration". Go to TDIClub and do a search. You will be frightened.

I'm in Richmond. Lakeside, which is maybe 15-20 minutes from Ashland. I can clear off a bed for you, if the girlfriend says it's okay. (It is her house).

I might have to cruise on over with the ol' subaru bug and check this thing out!