Nug

Apparently, the 2nd gen 2.5 is susceptible to external head gasket leaks. Not as bad as the 1st gen internal leaks, but still an issue. The coolant conditioner Subaru recommends is a sort of stop leak. Not exactly fixing the root problem, IMHO.

I'm dealing with the same issue. I'm running a 160 degree thermostat, 25% glycol/redline water wetter. It's a little better, but not perfect.

Newtown Raceway...100 yard sand drags. I can enter it into the stock 4wd class. Any suggestions? BTW, I've drag raced on asphalt, and i know how to work the tree. I ought to put some mud grips on the bug and run that in 2wd modified.

Setright, You seem to back this stuff up pretty strongly, so I have decided to try it. Of course, TAF-X isn't sold in the US. I did some research, and found that is IS sold in the US, but under a different name. The following is from Hondatech forums... Oct 1, 2002 - 23:46 - From: Doug Title: Castrol TAF-X in the USA Message: Here is the response to the inquiry I sent to Castrol USA about where to get Castrol TAF-X in the USA: "Castrol TAF-X 75W-90 GL-4 gear oil is made in the U.K. and sold only in Europe. However, the equivalent in the U.S. is Syntorq LT. Having said that, Syntorq LT SAE 75W-85, API GL -4 is a premium high performance, synthetic gear lubricant for synchronized manual transmissions. The all new "clean slate" approach enables Syntorq LT to provide consistent performance and durability under the most severe operating conditions due to its unique polymer free formula. It has been designed primarily as a problem solving gear lubricant for manual transmissions to provide reduced gearshift effort at low temperatures. Syntorq LT is available through General Motors (Part #12346190) and Chrysler (Part #4637579) dealerships. Please contact your local dealership." the best deal is at gmpartsdirect. So i ordered some from gmparts direct. A little over $55 including shipping for 4 quarts. I'm assuming you can buy it over the counter, but I have no idea where the Chevy dealers are in the area, besides I didn't feel like driving. When i put it in, I'll post results. Right now I'm getting a little bit of scrape downshifting into first. IByoushouldn'tshiftintofirstwiththecarstillmoving. Whatever. Calebz-this is what I was talking about. My bad.

I saw it was your Birthday, and no one had posted a greeting yet. So there!

I think 95 and later had EGR. 90-94 are blissfully similar.

Which oil you use is inconsequential. The engine needs to be resealed, including cam (where it's probably leaking), crank, and oil pump seals. Resealing the oil pump will probably have the greatest effect on the ticking. The ticking doesn't hurt anything, really, but it's a sign that air is getting introduced into the oil galleries. Clunking while driving: I'd suspect bushings, like you said. I'd also check the strut tower bushings, the rubber piece on top of the strut that attaches to the body. The first thing I'd check on the turbo is the wastegate. Make sure it isn't stuck open. DO NOT drive around with the hose on the wastegate diaphram detached. Have fun, let us know what happens.

Is this enough to make an order?

Get a big cold chisel and a big hammer. Lock the cold chisel in a pair of vise-grips so you don't miss and smash your fingers off. Put the cutting edge of the chisel on a flat of the nut, parallel with the axle. The object is to split the nut in half, making it a "C" shape. Understand? You don't need to break it all the way in half. Just a judicious beating with a cold chisel will expand the inner diameter enough for the rust to let loose. When they are this bad, I like to get the chisel at least half way through the nut before I start jumping on a breaker bar again. Or go to a truck stop, hand a mechanic $10 (or a six pack) and tell them to hit it with the big gun. They'll have an impact big enough!

I'll keep my eyes open for ya.

I think you misunderstood 99obw. That last line is his signature, and shows up everytime he posts. Yes, it's possible to destroy a 4 month old battery. The battery can be analyzed and load tested by most major auto parts chain stores, like Advance Auto Parts. Checking for shorts involves placing a voltmeter between the negative battery cable and the negative battery post. There should be 0 volts, theoretically. Things like the ecu, clocks, and radios (things that are on all the time or have 'memory') will cause some draw, but only in milliamps, it would take months to drain the battery. Defeat these devices, and check the voltage. If voltage is there than ciruits on the car should be disabled (by pulling each fuse) one at a time until the leakage can be isolated. Then you have to go through each part of the circuit until you find it. Boy, that was incoherent. Good luck!

The Plot thickens...

When you put it on defrost, it turns your A/C on. This helps evaporate moisture off of the windshield. When the A/C comes on, you will feel a power loss, and If your belts aren't tensioned correctly or are worn, they will slip momentarily and squeal.

IIRC, the oil cooler adapters fit all EA engines and the ER-27.

A couuple of times I have put alt's on cars and have had them get hot. One was a Buick. It got so hot it melted some of the glue on the laminated core. It was also humming very loud, like it was full-fielding (running wiiiiide open). I just let it run, and a couple minutes later, it quieted down and cooled off. That one was just a direct swap. I was told by the guy at NAPA to make sure the battery was fully charged, but when you are installing an alt in a 7-11 parking lot because your friend broke down, what do you do? We hooked jumper cables up to it for a full half hour in an attempt to charge the battery up. I'm assuming that it wasn't completely charged, and the alt was seenig a low voltage, and tried to correct it aka it was busy charging the battery. The second time I'd seen it was a similar situation, GM alt on 12v converted ford tractor. When I hooked it up and started it, the ammeter read 30 amps+. I know there is nothing on a point ignition tractor with no lights that is drawing that much power, unless there is a short, or the battery is nearly dead (which it was). Alt was HOT. After running for a while, amperage dropped off, alt cooled down, humming went away, everything kosher. Both the tractor and buick are both still running and charging trouble free.

I'd like a header and downpipe, for the stock turbo.

Bump This moved off of the first page quick!

WJM has informed me that he can get some more oil cooler adapters if people are interested. I want one. Anyone else?

Interesting. Anyone running one? Are they any good?

Le bump

http://www.turbocity.com

When i can get away with it, I will bring whatever part w/ broken bolt to work. That way, i can tig weld a nut to it. I'll do it real slow so i can get the broken bolt extremely hot. To date, this has worked every single time. Then i run a tap down in it to clean it up, and I'm on my way.

I talked to Larry Clark at Centerforce today. He seemed suprised that they made clutches for nearly every subaru except EA82's. He asked me to send him a list of different subaru models, which engines came with what models and whatever years, etc. to help sort out the confusion in identifying ea81/ea82 cars.. I couldn't help him, because I can't tell them apart, really. I did tell him that RX's, XT's XT turbos, and Loyals shared variants of the EA82, and that no aftermarket performance clutches are available for these models. He also asked for some specifications on the clutch/pressure plate itself, such as input shaft diameter, spline count, clutch diameter, etc. I couldn't tell him this either. So, could you guys and girls help me put together a list showing the differences between the ea81/82's, and some technical data for the clutches so we could get some manufactured? He seemed pretty positive that if enough people were interested, they could manufacture some for us. He also asked that if people wanted to email him or call him, feel free to. His number is (928) 771-8422x30, and his email address is larryc@centerforce.com. I mentioned that I was a member of the Ultimate Subaru Club, so you might want to mention that if you contact him. Eric

You need to clean your engine...j/k:)

while you still have a nug of bolt hanging out, try heat + vise grips method. Or welding a nut to what's left. If you shear that off, then try the easy-out method. Note: I have had almost no luck with easy-outs, and i will try pretty much any other method before i resort to using them.