corvette6698512

My '83 GL just randomly pops itself into 4wd while driving. Its not like its rarely either. Once its in 4wd, its hard to put back into 2wd also. Is this a common thing on the older GL's? Its a 4 speed. I'm planning on doing a 5 speed swap, but like everyone else, no money to cover the cost of that quite yet. I probably wont have the money for a while, so I want to get this figured out. Thanks!

My '83 has problems sometimes going back into 2wd. I wonder if its because the axles are binding(from slight turning) or something like that.

As stated before, you can find a newer less maintenance awd legacy for around $1000-1200. Keep looking. The right deal will show up.

Wow. Maybe I should reinforce mine too. It is the radius bar. I hope I didnt bend up the control arm either.

I only said a new one so I could find parts easier.

Cool. You should get a set of weber IDF's or dellorto DRLA's for it. Oh, and thats a type 3 engine, not a bug engine

Well I broke my Subaru lol. I bent the bar that keeps the control arm from moving forward and back(sorry for my lack of knowledge on suspension part names, still a noob with subarus). Now I can feel it shift forward and back when I hit the brake or gas. Hopefully I can find another from a parts car. Maybe I should have found a slightly newer subaru lol.

Dude! Let me know next time you go wheeling. Cool pics and video.

I would like to get power steering. Did the '83 have it stock? I dont think it has the pump, but there are fittings on the rack. There is 4 fittings, but only two are hooked up. Where do the 4 go? Thanks.

My $600 GL. Planning on building a roof rack, and maybe a front tube bumper. Probably spray 'er down with some nice camo colors, just for fun.

On my XT6, when the axles got worn out and cause the vibration, i could grab the axle, and the splined part of the cv and twist them in opposite directions and they would twist maybe 1/8". You can really feel the slop when they are off the car. Good luck.

I have two fans on my '83 gl radiator. One works with a thermostat, but the other works on a switch on the dash. I find this to work very good. Its fun to see the gauge get higher then normal, then flip the switch and you can almost see the needle drop.

It all depends if I get insurance on my car tomorow. Gonna try. If not, I would totally catch a ride if your doing anything fun.

Wow, thats quite a drive from olympia. I'll see if i got money for gas.

Walker???

Is there any other ways to make the linkage open up the 2nd carb? I cant seem to get any wire in there to make it open. The diaphram on mine is broken. Maybe Its easier with the carb off the engine?

Ok I think we figured it out. Hansend23 was messing with it and found a few things that were off. The vacuum advance on the distributor is broken. I unhooked it from the manifold(which i believe is the wrong place anyways) and sucked on it. The distributor didn't advance, and it had an air leak. I unplugged the line and plugged the fitting it was on. I then advanced the timing a few degrees and it totally got rid of the stumble off idle(temporary fix of course). So what is supposed to be connected to the vacuum fittings on the left side of the manifold? I know one is for the air cleaner, but how about the other one? Also, does anyone around here have a spare distributor or at least a vacuum canister for it? Thanks!!

Ok. I asked and he said its 5 speed 4wd d/r. I bought a new cap and rotor. It seemed to make it run a little smoother, but its still not making a difference on that one cylinder. I also got some new plugs, but haven't put them in quite yet. It doesn't make any sense. It almost feels like 4 cylinders(unless they really run that good on 3) but the one cylinder isn't doing anything really. Could it possibly be a vacuum leak somewhere? If so, where would it be leaking to cause that cylinder to not fire?

Would a GL10 trans work for a 5 speed swap?

Yep, Let me know when your ready? Cant wait to see what this subie will do lol.

The other three do affect the engine, sorry I didn't show that in the video. The wire has a reasonably low resistance, so I dont think thats the problem. I might just try new plugs, and order a cap and rotor. I sure hope its not to much, I need to save for gas haha. Going from a 55mpg vw to a 15 mpg subie is quite a difference.

Another problem my wagon has is transmission mounts. Where can I get some new ones, and are there any more solid types that people would recommend? I also want to try to find a 5 speed for a swap. What cars should I be looking at for the swap? I want a dual range 5 speed that I can put in my '83 and keep it all stock(like the shifter and 4wd selector). I also need a oil pressure sender. I think thats about it as far as fixing this thing up to be a good driver.

Took off the valve cover and the valves moved exactly how they should. I didnt know these things had dual springs. Anyways, thats not the problem. All thats left if ignition or fuel. Is there any possible way for fuel/air not to get into that cylinder? I cant really think of any ways, so it must be ignition. I'll try to get new plugs, cap and rotor tomorow.

Quick video I made

OK so its not like a bug at all lol. The cap does look a little crusty, but it still has pretty good spark which is why im stumped. I'll order a new cap and see what happens.