lastchance

done. thanks for the advice. 90* 2.25" silicone elbow, 7" 2.25" aluminum straight stock, 2.25-2.75" silicone reducer, a few barb fittings from home depot, JB weld, black high temp spray paint, and done.

that's the exact direction i was thinking about going. 90* aluminum elbow, silicone reducer coupling on the MAF side, another silicone coupler on the turbo side, some barb fittings, JB weld, black spray paint, and done. haha!

anyone?

yeah dude, i've DEFINITELY gone through quite a bit diagnosing this thing, but the split intake/turbo boot was definitely the issue with the running problems. as for the dead ECU, i'm still stumped why the replacement won't allow the car to run. weird.

no smoke of any kind, actually. i've replaced the rotor, disty cap, plugs, wires, coil, CTS, and a few other simple/cheap things all within the last 100 miles.

as the title reads - just wondering what i can use to replace the shredded turbo inlet boot/hose (from the flapper door MAF to the turbo inlet) from something more common than an ea81t motor. this is for my 1984 turbo wagon.

yeah, i have jb weld but would rather dig around the junkyard if one from an ea82t would fit. i could also rig something up with a silicone elbow, reducer, and tubing...

naru was right... he said vacuum/unmetered leak. the intake boot from the air flow meter to the turbo was not only cracked on the base but the entire middle section was COMPLETELY ripped, almost completely in half. i was worried when i noticed oil at the base of the boot, thinking that something was dying, but nope... just the boot itself completely ripped apart. haha! will the intake boot from an ea82t fit? i assume it's the same part???

and for the ea81t?

for fuel injected cars a vacuum gauge like this is still useful, correct?

got it. i'm going to work on the vacuum hoses and such this weekend, that's an easy/cheap fix to go through and really inspect those bits and pieces.

is it from an 83 or 84 ea81t?

and as for the miss/rough running, here's the exact sequence: in park and idling while cold - fine in park and idling while warm - okay, but will randomly idle low and die in drive and idling while cold - fine in drive and idling while warm - bad, will idle low and die. when on the throttle (driving) a misfire develops, car runs rough all through the power band (gas is constantly manipulated to keep car running while warm, while in park or in drive)

good deal. i have a propane torch that'll do the job. i've actually noticed some excess oil seepage around the intake plenum and had recently replaced the PCV valve, i seem to remember the hose being really fragile and/or cracked back in that area. inside diameter on the PCV valve hose should be 3/8" or is it 3/4"?

got it. i should be connecting the vacuum gauge to somewhere on the intake manifold, right?

Vacuum check? You mean for leaks, right? I just did the other day and was pretty convinced that was part of my issue... I sprayed starter fluid around all the vacuum connections (while running, on a cold engine) and didn't notice any real changes in idle. It definitely starts strong, idles perfect when cold but once the engine temp starts to come up it runs really poor.

round knock box plug? is that one of two right above the air flow meter in the engine bay? those are the only two round plugs i can think of. i'm beginning to think my issues are mechanical since i've diagnosed almost all of the trouble code issues over the last few months. do you think a compression check is in order?

back from the dead... where is the sensor located? is it external (from the ECM) for the ea81 as it is the ea82?

i replaced the CTS, code went away. sweet. i still have code 41 - atmosphere pressure sensor or circuit is that an integrated piece of the ECM or a sensor elsewhere? i'm still getting the symptoms of missing/running rich when the car is warm.

good deal, thanks.

how easy was it? pics of the setup? did you have to fab new/different brackets? what car did this go into?

with my multimeter on the lowest setting (200) i was getting a reading of 0.4 doing this test... sounds like a fried CTS to me and the reason i'm getting that trouble code.

got it, i'll report back.

both leads on unplugged CTS while cold and again while warm to verify the CTS is operating correctly at varying engine temps, correct?

got it. test the same way while unplugged? lead to negative battery, other to prongs inside unplugged CTS on the harness end, right? i searched this morning for an ea81t CTS and could only find that single spade one, will an ea82t CTS work in my car? are the resistance range(s) the same?