Kostamojen

Does anyone have any photos of what connection to use from the ignition, and maybe how to connect it properly for a Tachometer? I can do the wire to the coil and to the ground fine, but this ignition one worries me...

I had the same problem when I installed new doors on my car a week or so ago... The new front doors had the "higher" side moulding, and one of them didnt even have the moulding... So I just used a chisel and took them all off and bondoed the holes.

Nevermind, I got a carb from the junkyard that runs perfectly The idle screw isnt all corroded out on the inside of the throttle on this on. I dont think ill even need a rebuild

Alright, well I pulled a carb from a 77 wagon at pick n pull I found... And now its running and running quite well I definatly think the throttle/idle screw had something to do with it, because now its adjusting properly and idles VERY low I should have it smoged shortly!

Is it me or are the side mouldings different on each side?

They arent made anymore, I tried to buy one just a couple weeks ago

Theres a 70's DL wagon at the JY with an automatic... Will that carb be ok to use?

Emailed you.

I'm curious, im trying to contact Roo-Builders for some carb/throttle work on my '78, but I havent had any responce. Are they on vacation or something, if anyone knows?

No responce yet from roo builders... Does anyone have a spare throttle assembly that isnt degraded around the idle screw hole?

Tourquoise is an aweful color! Besides, they needed painting, and im going for a Yellow/Black/Blue look, perhaps with rally decals and such later on. Although If I end up spending my paint money on the carb (I was going to Maaco it that blue color like on the front, because the spray-painting turned out so crappy) I might just go with a flat black mad max look...

I also added some pics to my wagon photo collection showing my progress: http://community.webshots.com/album/166896604vSrMWC (2nd page)

Ok, heres a pic: http://community.webshots.com/photo/166896604/435176004chIDgj BTW, I do have an FSM, along with Chiltons and Haynes... Its got about everything covered, along with this forum.

I might have possibly found the exact problem... The idle screw, on the inside of the throttle, theres alot of corrosive wear where the tip comes out into the throttle area. There looks like possibly there is a gap between the needle and that space, which I would think would allow fuel to seep in no matter how the needle is turned. I can try to take a pic...

I dont have a tach (its not installed yet, I just bought it last week) and I wont have acess to any shops since well the car isnt going anywhere other than my backyard anymore until I can get it to at least run close to properly... I just took the Carb off after noticing that the two bolts under the float area were leaking. Theres definatly an issue with the carb, ive eliminated everything else as being a cause (checked vacumes, timing, etc.). I'm contacting Roo builders to see what they say... Ya, I need to go to pick n pull again to look for rear disk brakes and maybe that disty. But I'm not sure I want to spend more money on that til I can get it smoged, because if it wont smog I'm going to have to get rid of it... (I wish it was a 75 or older car or I wouldnt even have to worry about smog...)

BTW, yes I am using a timing gun.

Thats a good idea, shouldnt be expensive either... Ill give it a shot. I'll pull it out and see if something is wrong with it first...

Um, what?

Ok, I think I found the problem or at least the result of the problem... I went to check the Idle air/fuel screw, and it was way too far up. So I tighted it down all the way then up to the 1.5 rotations as suggested. I ran the car, and it was still rich, so then I tighted it... And tightented it... until it was TOTALLY tighted, and it still ran rather than stalling out... Its obvious that that screw isnt doing what its supposted to be doing or fuel is getting in there from elsewhere... Suggestions? Ideas?

Well I checked the timing, it seems fine... At idle is very close. The vacume advance seems fine, I adjusted it and it made that noise it makes then adjusted it back to where it doesnt. Also turned the fuel way down... Its spewing smoke when I step on it now, grey smoke. I honestly dont know what to do.

I dont think my car has points. Its a CA car, and ive seen point distributors and such before... A little different.

FYI, I just checked the float, and I saw the dot in the middle of the glass and the fuel is about at that level. However, I see a big black wall behind it (the float I presume)

The place that did the tune up, along with the testing, refused to even complete the test because of the high CO2 (not CO's). So I didnt get a print out. Plus, there is a hole in the muffler that they didnt like either... I'll have to have that fixed. For the timing, rotating the dist. does exactly what when its rotated left or right? I.E. which way advances and which way does the opposite? I havent found a simple statement anywhere saying which is which But I have managed to get the timing somewhat close... (Its still about a cm off to the right of the timing mark) Ill check the float now, see whats up with it through the looking glass. As for the Ignition points, what should I work with for those? Just check it for distance or damage, or something else? I did see a segment in the offical Service Manual I have for the car showing how to adjust the Vacume advance. Theres a screw for adjustment, but it seems like the only way to adjust it is by going by sound which is rather interesting. Pardon the comment about the new Forum, but Ive been online so long with so many different forums that i've seen what happens to forum topics that are split of from larger topics to know that usually it ends up with a SIGNIFICANT drop in views, which leads to a ghost town of a topic (note how this forum is getting about 3 threads with new responces a day vs. the old forum where theres well over a page a day of threads with new responces...). It makes it very difficult when you are trying to get help about something specific, even though this topic can apply to both forums...

I'm not sure If I replaced the float, I dont think so, it was almost a year ago when I rebuilt it... Could it possibly be timing or some of the carb screws/adjustments that might be way off?

Well I had the '78 wagon worked on today at a shop. Had the valves adjusted, the brakes inspected, and an atempt at smogging... Well it all went pretty bad. The valve job didnt help much since something is wrong with the car/emissions/etc. causing extra fuel to get dumped into the motor, which as a result causes CO2 emissions in the 20%+ range... I have no idea if I connected a vacume line wrong, or if something I did with rebuilding the carb went wrong, or if maybe something else I dont know about is bad... I really wish I could pass emissions with a 32/36 DGAV Weber carb or I would get one... The other thing I found out, was the brakes are almost totally shot. Front pads are nearly gone along with the rotors... That will be a pain to fix. The rears need replacing too, which is even more of a pain... Anyway, I'm kinda screwed since now my dad wants me to get rid of the car rather than spend MORE on it... Suggestions? Ideas? Help?