Kostamojen

For that much im buying a webber.. If I rebuild it, im rebuilding it myself with a gasket kit. (which is fine now since I have a spare carb)

Well I replaced the coil and the "transistor" attached to it, and its still doing the dying out thing when you give it gas. It is backfiring alot now though. I guess its the carb, but man I dont know what im doing when it comes to carbs! I did pick up a carb at the junkyard off of a 1400 (with the intake manifold too, but its a little different but not alot... the recirculator that bolts into the heads is on the other side, and it doesnt have the big vacume regulator on the front which is what I wanted to get rid of anyhow) Otherwise its basically the same carb. Suggestions?

I admit not being that knowledgeable about pushrod engines, but what does that mean with the shims and floating liners? *runs to read his haynes manual* :-p

So I was at the pick and pull yesterday, and stared at a ~75 coupe with the 1400 engine with the dual port heads for awhile... (actually took the intake manifold/carborator of of it) and even checked the bolt pattern versus the EA71, and from what I could tell it looks like they would bolt up. Has anyone tried this?

Well im on my 4th try for a heater hose for the '78... (IE the hose that goes from the headers to the intake) I need one to pass smog, but all the ones at the shops seem to be either too large width wise or too short length wise! Very annoying... I even ordered one that was SUPPOSED to be 40mm, but it was more like 39mm and just 1mm too narrow to go around the ports, ARG!!! Any tips on what to do about this?

I think I will just get a spare carb from my junkyard trip this wednesday and then rebuild it myself with one of the rebuild kits. It probably wont be a CA spec carb either, which from what ive read means its easier to adjust.

Ug, another unsuccessful day... Now the car whenever I give it a good amount of throttle and let off, it will die. Sometimes now it even dies under throttle. Its very inconsistant though. Fuel is definatly getting in there, I just dont know why its not working right.

I presume for = from, so what you meant was to get an 82 radiator top hose as well if I get a 82 radiator, right?

Well I fiddled more with the idle/throttle screws, I wasnt sure exactly how they were operating, but I found out my uncle had a old scoob once upon a time and he gave me some insight. I tried it out both running lean and running rich, and no matter what I did even if it was idling great, i'd shift into second and give it gas when i was starting to test drive it it would just totally die... Ug... I also checked the fuel pump and fuel lines (ran it to see if it would pump, and it is pumping just fine). Ill check the coil pack tommorow, then I guess ill know if its going to be something more serious after that... As for the curved spark plug wires, these caps that connect to the distrubutor are 90 degree bend ones, if I dont tweak the wire somehow to make it with a 90 degree bend, it wont fit in the cap correctly.

No air conditioning either... Thats what I want to change my motor into, get rid of these non functional useless parts :-p It looks like you eliminated the charcoal canister as well, what did you do about the vacume regulator hosing?

Ok, ill have to try for a new coil pack then. Maybe try to run it temporarily with the other pack I have. The problem with the wires is that there needs to be a bend in them, at least I think there needs to be a bend... I got the clip on one with the wire in the proper position, but the after-that part is the problem. These are not stock plug wires. Brian if you want you can stop by saturday, im going to work on the car then.

A pic would be excellent! Thanks Especially a pic of the wiring for the fan that replaced the belt driven fan...

Well I found the spark plug instructions online... Confusing, especially since I have aparently two sets of distributor ends I can install on these wires. Hmm... Oh, and ya, right now the car when you get it in gear and give it gas, or give it gas in general, it bogs for awhile before reving. I cant get it anywhere right now without it dying

I will if I cant find a decent one, but last time I saw one or two off of first gen cars that were in rather darn good shape. Any good places to buy new ones at if I need to? Modding bolt holes isnt something I want to do, im trying to stay away from that with this car, mostly trying to restore it properly

No brian, like I IM'ed you, I cant find the instructions for the wires. Im going to have to look online to find how to do it. (plus I worked like from 4pm yesterday to now, with only 8 hours between to sleep)

Well my radiator on the '78 has a nice leak. No biggie, since Ive got like 4 pick n' pulls I can go to I was wondering what other model year radiators will bolt up with the gen 1? There are not alot of gen 1 cars to pick through, but alot of gen 2's, I was wondering if maybe like an EA81 radiator would work. Any ideas?

Ok, I tried again today. At first, it wouldnt even start without dying immediatly afterwards. I tried flooring it while starting it, and it still would die. Fiddled with the idle adjuster, nothing. So, I threw in the "garanteed to pass" stuff and it still didnt start, but then after a few more tries, it started AND idled fine. So I let it sit there awhile and cook off all the oil and gunk that was on the headers from yesterday, and it was going fine, even adjusted the idle lower so it wasnt so crazy high and it was still running. Then, I tried to back it up, and as soon as I put it in reverse and let off the clutch, death... So I put it back in the driveway, ran it some more, tried again, got it out of the driveway, but as soon as I put it in first and gave it gas, death Something is wrong for sure, but im at a loss. I havent worked on carbed cars before, this is my first.

I have a spare fuel filter ill toss on there tommorow. Ill check the fuel lines and such too to see what is going on with them. I have the service manual, along with the haynes and chiltons manual, so that helps alot for looking up all this, but it is a rather simple engine The hard parts are mostly the carb and the vacume. I also got some of that "garanteed to pass" stuff, ill throw that in tommorow and try get a good run out of the car.

Got the fuel, didnt add the new wires. Any idea where to get the right heater hose? Both kragens didnt have the right size, smallest they had was 2" and this one is like 1.5" (4cm actually) and like I need a 3 foot one...

Ok, that was a horrible failure... It was actually passing the test, but the car fubared and couldnt get to 25mph! They told me oh well, get it worked on, it would have passed, but we couldnt get it to 25mph... I was freaked out, cause I was just doing 45mph 10 minutes prior. So they didnt charge me anything, and I left, but OMG the car is sooo fubared!!! I got to 2nd gear, and the car would just go "bug bug bug" and would lurch back and forth and not go any faster even with it floored Also, since the first time I drove it, I barely made it back because it was dying when I was about to get home and it totally died as I pulled in (let off the gas, with the clutch in and it would stall) and its doing this even more now, especially after the smog test. There is something wrong and I have nooo idea, it could be that vacume regulator that Brian messed with, or it could be the PCV (but it looked fine, anyone have a part number for a new one?) or it could be something with the fuel... I fiddled alot with the idle adjustment screw too trying to get it to idle good (at the smog station it was idling at 950rpms) Oh and yes I got that filter on, and got some new vacume lines and fixed all the vacume line locations to the right spots, and got the exhaust recurculator going back into the airbox. I dont have a heater hose, because there isnt one and I couldnt find one that was the right length and diameter. After the test after dinner, I spent that time up to now cleaning out the engine bay so it looks more like an engine rather than a glob of mud, LOL! Looks better now, but its still not running very well at all. The car does not have a cat. It also has an exhaust leak, that might help it get through emissions, so ill keep that until I can get the motor running right... I put in 10w30 before the test, with the new Fram filter brian had. I dont think the pcv is recurculating oil anymore either, but ya I should replace it. Any thoughts/ideas? Ive got 3 weeks to get this smoged.

Funny though, since the car doesnt have any cats, or any exhaust silencer :-p

I meant stock header + 2" after that. The exhaust is a total bottleneck after the header, and rusted :-p

Well brian brought the car over Im the proud owner of a 78 wagon now! Woo! On to the complicated stuff... I got one of the temporary registration permits so I can get the car smogged, but the car does have some issues. It seems as if oil is coming from somewhere in the engine bay, dont know where, and its recirculated em masse into the air filter box. After awhile driving, it smokes in the engine bay (not alot, but enough to notice, and alot of it is probably burn off but you can see that there is fresh oil coming from aparently the air filter box). Im not sure whats causing it, but the vacume hoses are fubared and I need to get them back into locations (anyone got a pic I can reference to do this?) There is also a hole in the muffler, not a big deal, I was planning on getting a 2" header back exhaust with a cat installed, would this improve my emissions passing cabality alot or would it be a waste? I also need an oil change, what is the best oil to use for the EA71? Just whatever, or something specific? Is there anything else I should be worry about to pass emissions? I havent had a pre-test yet, but thats what I was going to do tommorow after I get gas and change the oil along with try to fix the vacume hoses.

Eh, car is staying this color for now, its still good paint! If anything else, i'd paint it rally blue :-p But I cant afford that right now.

Ive got the funky beige color. $30 is alot for a spray can! Ill have to call around for sure.